Thanks for the reply!!
I looked at them and honestly its way over my head. Is there a part I can buy that is plug and play or would I need to create a whole circuit from scratch?
Mike
I looked at them and honestly its way over my head. Is there a part I can buy that is plug and play or would I need to create a whole circuit from scratch?
Mike
You did not mention how much current you needed.
here is a 48V to +/- 12 V part from Digi-Key
1W is about 43mA
Digi-Key Part Number 811-2177-5-ND
Price Break Unit Price Extended Price
1 7.95000 7.95
5 7.91000 39.55
10 7.85000 78.50
Quantity Available 32
Manufacturer
Murata Power Solutions Inc
Manufacturer Part Number
MEA1D4812SC
Description CONV DC/DC 1KVDC 1W 48 +-12V TH
That part was isolated.
You could also use a 12V in to 12V out isolated and connect the + to gnd, giving a -12V supply.
Digi-Key has 51 of these in stock that range from 21mA to 333mA in output
I would recommend C-L-C filtering for any of these DC-DC converters to get a cleaner DC source.
here is a 48V to +/- 12 V part from Digi-Key
1W is about 43mA
Digi-Key Part Number 811-2177-5-ND
Price Break Unit Price Extended Price
1 7.95000 7.95
5 7.91000 39.55
10 7.85000 78.50
Quantity Available 32
Manufacturer
Murata Power Solutions Inc
Manufacturer Part Number
MEA1D4812SC
Description CONV DC/DC 1KVDC 1W 48 +-12V TH
That part was isolated.
You could also use a 12V in to 12V out isolated and connect the + to gnd, giving a -12V supply.
Digi-Key has 51 of these in stock that range from 21mA to 333mA in output
I would recommend C-L-C filtering for any of these DC-DC converters to get a cleaner DC source.
Very simple, take two 12V Power supplies. K speaking simple... take the pos from one and the neg from the other join the two wires. Now this is your common(or neg). The power supply with the red left over is your +12 the power supply with the black is your -12. Common is still the two connected wires.
You will need to build a switching mode power supply. Basically you "chop" the 12VDC to make a high frequency AC then this goes to the transformer and after that it rectified and filtered. This kind of power supply is hard to design but there are chips for this that reduce the componenet count, but still yu must understand switch mode power supplies if you are going to build one.
Is mains AC available? if so simply buy the correct center tapped transformers. they are not expensive if you only need one amp or less
I bought a dual output isolated dc to dc converter from Murata. It has -12 and +12 output.
When i hook it up to power it shows the right output but when I plug it into my amp it drops to -1.2v & +1.2 and will not work.
If I use my other +12v source and the -12v source from the Murata it works but if I use both the +12 and the -12v from the Murata it will not work.
Any ideas?
in the data sheet for the DC to DC converter it says teh common is floated but I tried with nothing connected to the common and that didnt work either.
Mike
When i hook it up to power it shows the right output but when I plug it into my amp it drops to -1.2v & +1.2 and will not work.
If I use my other +12v source and the -12v source from the Murata it works but if I use both the +12 and the -12v from the Murata it will not work.
Any ideas?
in the data sheet for the DC to DC converter it says teh common is floated but I tried with nothing connected to the common and that didnt work either.
Mike
What are the amp's 12 volt power requirements, and are they met by the DC-DC converter?
The ICEpower datasheet gives a quiescent current of +12V @ 70mA and -12V @ 20mA. So if the DC-DC converter can only supply, for example, 50mA through each half...
I can easily imagine the results you're seeing.
edit: BTW, the floating ground on the converter output means it has no reference to the either the + or - of the 12V input voltage.
The ICEpower datasheet gives a quiescent current of +12V @ 70mA and -12V @ 20mA. So if the DC-DC converter can only supply, for example, 50mA through each half...
I can easily imagine the results you're seeing.
edit: BTW, the floating ground on the converter output means it has no reference to the either the + or - of the 12V input voltage.
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This is the dc to dc that I am using.
It's a 3 watt ps and I am drawing about 1watt.
This seems like it should work but it's not???
Mike
BWR-12/125-D48-C | Bipolar Output Isolated | DC-DC Converters | Products | Murata Power Solutions
It's a 3 watt ps and I am drawing about 1watt.
This seems like it should work but it's not???
Mike
BWR-12/125-D48-C | Bipolar Output Isolated | DC-DC Converters | Products | Murata Power Solutions
Ah, thanks, that keeps my hopes up.
I'd have to defer to the previous suggestion concerning cap requirements. How does the datasheet circuit compare with the one in actual use (including the ICEpower side)? Murata claims that in/out caps aren't strictly necessary, but there may be something with this particular app that makes it/them especially necessary. I've used this same converter series with no problems.
I'd have to defer to the previous suggestion concerning cap requirements. How does the datasheet circuit compare with the one in actual use (including the ICEpower side)? Murata claims that in/out caps aren't strictly necessary, but there may be something with this particular app that makes it/them especially necessary. I've used this same converter series with no problems.
Yes I am using a 48v source.
When I measure on the bench it is fine. so I know its working right and I must be doing something wrong in the way I am hooking up to the load.
I am sure I am missing something simple. Although it seems like there are not many variables.
My only concern is that the converter says to float the output common as in leave it open. That seems odd.
I wonder if I use the amp ground on the input of the DC to DC converter instead of the battery ground. that might make a difference.
Mike
When I measure on the bench it is fine. so I know its working right and I must be doing something wrong in the way I am hooking up to the load.
I am sure I am missing something simple. Although it seems like there are not many variables.
My only concern is that the converter says to float the output common as in leave it open. That seems odd.
I wonder if I use the amp ground on the input of the DC to DC converter instead of the battery ground. that might make a difference.
Mike
Yes that is how I hooked it up and it was not working.
Glad I was not doing it wrong but I dont get why it's not working.
Mike
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