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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Hi Everyone,
I've got one of these DC Blockers from DIY HiFi Supply, I find the fitting description quite confusing, it says in the instructions to put it on the neutral side, yet in the picture it appears to be on the live/hot side: DC Blokker Module | Diy HiFi Supply Does anyone have any advice on which is the correct side to fit the blocker? Many thanks for any assistance. |
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#2 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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It does not matter as it is a series circuit.
__________________
www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Many thanks, I'll get building!
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Kiel, Germany
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Does anybody know what hides in the mold?
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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Capacitor and/or some diodes.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Kiel, Germany
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I am not going to build one as I do not think a few volts of DC are going to saturate my transformer. But would it not take a C in the range of 1000s of uF to keep voltage drop low? And can you please explain how diodes can help? Antiparallel? Isn't that just subtracting 0.7V in both polarities? I read about a DC eliminating device by Burmester that involved a lot of semis and also claimed to lower the impedance!! of the mains. It was said to load the mains during the bigger half wave. A giant "AC shunt regulator".
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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Yes, big caps are needed so back-to-back electrolytics with steering diodes is one option. Some people claim that a simple shorted bridge (so two diode drops) is sufficient on its own, but I am not convinced. I think if I needed a DC blocker I would use a biased electrolytic, with bias obtained from the AC supply.
A few volts of DC could disturb a low resistance transformer, like some toroidals. Remember, all DC sees is the primary resistance and there is no cancelling current in a secondary to reduce DC flux. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver Island
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I think it falls into the category of devices that work equally well whether you wire them into a circuit or leave them in the box.
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
Even if there were a few milliamps of DC the effect is only that the effective size of the power transformer is reduced The next question is if these things are even legal. Seriously. I doubt it is an X or Y rated cap and I _think_ (?) it needs to be if it is connected to the primary side of a transformer. Or is that only if the cap is in parallel and this is series? Next, I wonder what problems this might introduce. With the primary you now have a series LC. Will it oscillate? What about inductance of the cap and ESR? One other question. Every large cap has a rating for max "ripple current". I wonder what is the rating of the cap inside the box. Certainly being connect in series with the mains it will see "ripple" (that is kind of an understatement) |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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