DPS-600 fast regulated smps for Wire-Amp

[BuildMeSomething]

My two units arrived 20 minutes before I left for work this afternoon, which gave me a good quarter of an hour to admire their splendor

Pretty certain that I'll use the Pesante Dissipante 4U 300 with the 3mm aluminium covers. My thoughts are to mount the dps-600's centrally [running front to back] with the Wire pcb's mounted one per side. Utilising an L bracket as a mount between the fets/heatsinks.

I'll start making a list of bits I need for testing & building, but it's going to be at least a month before I can make a start... I have a fixed cine-screen to buy first

[BuildMeSomething]

Ahh... Just checked through the bag of bits that has been kindly supplied with the units, and am missing 1 terminal pin for the AC-in connector [eXcon 3961 3-pin housing]...

No big deal though, alternitive parts are; Molex Spox 3.96mm terminal pin - WM18821CT-ND [digikey code] & Molex Spox 3.96mm 3-pin housing - WM18814-ND

Everything else is present and correct, plus the units themselves look fantastic

[AP2]

Hi, i have cecked well before close package but...happen, i'm sorry for this.

[qusp]

Hey Roberto, any comment on this mate? i'm in a very similar point of planning the layout and thus making the right length cables. in essence, does the power unit radiate more through the top or through the bottom? I would expect the top as the PCB will give some shielding. its critical for layout as I would like to get the dps600 as close as possible to the amp

[AP2]

Hi,
I agree with the disposition of the pic hochopeper. in case of dual mono with this SMPS, the optimal arrangement, also very beautiful, is that advice in this pic. Some customers have closed with aluminum grid, the central block. (only for aesthetics more beautiful). I have included the electromagnetic radiation (simplified). As you see, is focused around the high voltage capacitors. the remaining parts of the DPS-600, are absolutely clean. 30mm can be fitted dsp or other circuits without problems. even if someone has different needs (as hochopeper example), can certainly take note from this diagram. This diagram was used for dual mono class D also. allows a new style, compact performances not obtainable in this small space. I still have many doubts that some diy really understand how important is psu, in an amplifier eheh.

P.S. Just my opinion, why not assemble LPUP in a separate small nice case? i know some very nice at low prices.
regards

[qusp]

P.S. Just my opinion, why not assemble LPUP in a separate small nice case? i know some very nice at low prices.
regards

because i'm making a multichanel dac and a multichannel amp, I dont want to be making multiple speaker cables, or multiple chassis, especially when my heatsinks and the resulting case are large enough to quite neatly have it all in one.

there is another reason we (hochopeper and I) are not making separate cases for the LPUHP. Its a long and arduous story; we had arranged for custom CNC chassis made to our design and we even purchased what we needed to get this to happen, but someone let us down and disappeared, so I guess we dont have the energy or desire to pay for it twice and it works out well to have them all together anyway.


I have some very nice ITT Cannon military connectors that will make excellent multicore speaker cables.

[AP2]

Hi, yes, I've mentioned something about Mr. Invisible ahah!.
Connector I know well, I have a bit of nostalgia (old memories between RF transmitters and antennas) in the old military job.eheh well, from the diagram, you know the irradiated area and have your assembly, even in some other way. for the remote control is simple to use a switch with two poles, but it is also possible to control multiple SMPS with a 1-pole switch (drawing and show notes for that matter) might be of interest to Lolo

[qusp]

i'll probably look at getting some mesh for a cage too.

interesting speaker grounding connection suggestion, I was thinking about this too, but I dont like the idea of the positive connection being all alone. if I did it that way, I would try to position the boards so they were close and run the ground from the dps600 directly across to the amp output and twist it with the positive wire.

I know I asked you once before, but can you confirm the star ground point on the dps600 you refer to above? is it where the white line on the PCB is, or is it the middle of the 3 small standoffs under the heatsink? I have asked for clarification on a few things, noted on the image below in text

[qusp]

Originally Posted by AP2

Hi, yes, I've mentioned something about Mr. Invisible ahah!.
Connector I know well, I have a bit of nostalgia (old memories between RF transmitters and antennas) in the old military job.eheh well, from the diagram, you know the irradiated area and have your assembly, even in some other way. for the remote control is simple to use a switch with two poles, but it is also possible to control multiple SMPS with a 1-pole switch (drawing and show notes for that matter) might be of interest to Lolo

aah yes thats right ive shown you them before.

We dont like to talk about Mr Invisible


yeah I will likely be using a remotely controlled relay, probably also controllable over wifi

[hochopeper]

Thanks Roberto for that drawing, clears a few things up in my mind. Raises a few questions, qusp has asked them all already above though so I won't repeat.

Mainly clarification about the safety earth and star ground connections was where my questions were.

Originally Posted by qusp

i'll probably look at getting some mesh for a cage too.

I was thinking about copper foil lined plastic/wooden cover for the smps, but I am honestly torn, it would mean I miss out on glimpses of these smps through the ventilation slots in the top of my chasis. Maybe just copper foil on 4 sides open at bottom for heat-sinking the smps and open at top for glimpses of these beauties! Tough choices.

Mr Invisible


PS. Forza Ferrari