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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
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So, here I am trying to read up on my stuff - not understanding most...
I would like to make a simple mono boombox in one of those small metal carrying suitcases to make the mp3 device heard! What I have: - 7Ah 12V battery - Class T amp - decent & sensitive speaker - I'll make the signal mono using 4.7k resitors Now, I'd like to charge the thing from a car cigarette lighter. Simple? All I need, I think, is over charge protection, no? Or? Dear forum, any ideas are appreciated
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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It should work fine just connected in parallel with the cig. lighter plug. The charging parameters of a 12V flooded car battery,and a 12V SLA are more-or-less the same.
It might be good to put a diode in series with the cig. lighter cord (I'd suggest a schottky type) to prevent the SLA from discharging into the car's electrical system (like,when you go to crank the engine). Other than that,I'm not sure you 'need' anything else. (ohh a fuse.Don't forget a fuse!) |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Perfect, thanks a lot Digital Junkie.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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The car cigarette lighter is fused - right?
With what fuse? 5A? 10A? Not to blow the fuse when connecting your 7Ah battery to it, I could recommend (with the diode) also a series resistor. Lets say 2.2ohm 100W + heat sink (a big one - just in case you were also booming your box when charging)... |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Okay, I believe, oddly, I have one of those lying around as well. Is there a particular reason why you'd say 2.2 Ohm? And what is the function of the resistor (say that I will be booming the box).
Thanks for the tip anyway. I am putting this thing together from old materials I have lying around. The lead acid battery has not been used for a while, so it may be dead. I have it on the charger now to see if the battery can still hold a charge. If it's dead, should I invest in a lipo 12V 9800mAh pack (the blue ones on ebay) and make/get/build in a charger for it? Or just a new SLA, any experiences here? Ah, the amp I will be using will draw a max. of 25W. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Eindhoven, The Netherlands
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Quote:
Depending on the type of battery, the initial charging current may need to be limited. This is especially the case with sealed lead acid batteries (SLAs). Without current limiting, a flat battery will try to draw quite a lot of current. A car battery + running alternator will supply ample. The initial charging current of a 12 V / 7 Ah SLA must be limited to approx. 2.5 A. Depending on the make it can vary, but it should be printed on the case (e.g. the Panasonic LC-R127R2PG must be charged with 2.88 A or less). If you ignore this things can go bad, like overheating it and possibly blowing it up. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Halifax, NS, Canada
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If you're using SLA, the 'big resistor' method is probably the way to go - and by far the cheapest.
Given 2A maximum charge current and worst case voltage difference of 14.4V at the car and 12V at the battery (2.4V drop) that's a 1.2 ohm resistor, which will dissipate 2.4^2/1.2 = 4.8 watts. I'd use a 10 watt ceramic resistor. Going with the 2.2 ohm resistor, it's 2.6 watts and a 5 watt resistor will suffice. If you're using LiPo, don't use the resistor method or you might find yourself with a car fire... I'd highly recommend using a proper LiPo charger instead, running off a cheap 12V->120V inverter. Buying the bits to run that would probably be cheaper than trying to build anything. I designed a charger a few years back which does exactly what you've got in mind, charging a SLA from automotive +12V, using a Linear LT1513 buck/boost. But buying one of those chips, getting appropriate magnetic material, winding coupled inductors, getting a PCB made, etc... would probably get expensive really fast. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Halifax, NS, Canada
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Lastly, whatever you do... MAKE SURE YOU USE A FUSE ON THE SLA BATTERY.
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