Float charger? Cut off at 13.5v rest until 12.5v before switch on? - Page 9 - diyAudio
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Old 28th August 2012, 10:46 AM   #81
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I'm very much looking forward to this AC charger, and charging the battery nicely.

I'm also planning to attempt outfitting Elvee's circuit with "solid state switch" for use as a solar charger. I wonder how to do that?
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Old 28th August 2012, 11:37 AM   #82
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A CCS feeding a voltage regulator.
Make the current setting of the CCS adjustable/switchable.
Make the voltage setting of the regulator adjustable/switchable.
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Old 28th August 2012, 03:50 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
A CCS feeding a voltage regulator.
Make the current setting of the CCS adjustable/switchable.
Make the voltage setting of the regulator adjustable/switchable.
A nice clean CCS feeding Elvee's circuit works very well. That gives the longer cycles to avoid battery wear and spends day(s) at a time with zero consumption (electricity bill). I was quite impressed with it set up like that.

But the current of a solar panel is unpredictable, I need to charge a small cap first to assure good voltage output and this could cause relay chatter or wear from the pulse, so I need to replace the relay with solid state switch. I'm trying to do it, but have not yet quite managed.
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Old 29th August 2012, 08:01 AM   #84
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If the solar cell has too little voltage then it is not ready to start charging.
If during that time the relay refuses to pull in then great. That matches solar availability.

As for relay chatter. Design your pull in voltages correctly. Use a cap across the [relay coil+transistor switch].
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Old 3rd September 2012, 09:41 PM   #85
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Default Smart 6 Charger, finding a transformer for it.

The board for the Smart 6 charger is coming and I need to find a transformer for it.
Option 1
So far, I have found a large size 14v 56va EI Core transformer. My line voltage is 120, not 110, so the output is quite close to the 15v. Well, that's the free option. It is appears to be able to actually withstand 80va use (about 5a max). With the large size of it, it should be able to dissipate heat well.
Option 2
Here's the non-free option: http://www.antekinc.com/pdf/AN-2215.pdf
At the bottom of the PDF is secondaries in series test at 120v input, with the normal operating range listed as 15.3v, 6a.

I don't really know which to choose.
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Old 21st September 2012, 09:43 AM   #86
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Default Photos! Hawkins board!

Earlier this week, the Hawkins Smart6 Charger board arrived. Looks nice!
It appears to have the needed voltage adjustments aboard, but not the current capacity. The Smart 6 is actually a 3 ampere unit.

I received directions that I was to use a stronger bridge rectifier and stronger transformer. I can provide an input of 15vac 5a, but I don't know how to set the charger output for 5a. Any ideas?

I can't find the current limiter setting.
Schematic is here.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Smart6Charger.jpg (772.7 KB, 71 views)
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Old 21st September 2012, 09:51 AM   #87
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Hi Daniel, all you need to do is change to a larger off-board diode bridge, the the SCR (BT151) is good for 10 amps. The reason I sent you this charger is that it is the simplest one that we have and locally a 25A bridge will probably cost you less than a Dollar.

I am PMing you some contact information.
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Old 21st September 2012, 11:29 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico Ras View Post
Hi Daniel, all you need to do is change to a larger off-board diode bridge.
With a 50 ampere transformer and 50 ampere bridge rectifier, the output is 3 amperes, because. . . The board's current limiter is set for 3 amperes.
I need 5 amperes.

So, I have emailed as indicated and await news on how to set the current limiter for 5a.
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Old 22nd September 2012, 12:42 PM   #89
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Hawkins tech support responded.
I was incorrect.
This device is current limited by the transformer itself.

Removing some of the headroom by using the 3a charger for a 5a charger is not very convenient.
It is not difficult to push a healthy battery up to a voltage; however, if the battery happens to have a load applied during charging (in my application that is likely to occur at random) then the transformer has to pull down well before 10a or else the SCR is exceeded. I'm definitely putting an autofuse/ShortStop (automated circuit breaker) on this situation!

Now I'm guessing, but because my application is about a volt lower than intended, perhaps the 14vac transformer is the safer option than the standard 15vac.

It seems that the bridge rectifier participates in the current protection scheme, making Fairchild Stealth the best option (0.3v to 2.2v vdrop). However, anything with a pronounced curve might do, like KBPC1610 (max) or KBU808 or KBPC4010. Any 800v to 1000v diode with relatively low amperage will lay over 1v or more, thus helping to match the input voltage to the output voltage before passing 10 amperes. The transformer does most of that work, but yet I shouldn't install a KBPC2502, since that is not so helpful.

Still trying to figure it out.
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Last edited by danielwritesbac; 22nd September 2012 at 12:56 PM.
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Old 25th September 2012, 02:20 PM   #90
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So far, we've determined to employ a 5 amp autobreaker just in case I guess the wrong transformer selection: 5 Amp 12 Volt Automotive Circuit Breaker, Short Stop
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