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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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Well, well, well. Just shows you that the tools you value the most can let you down when you least expect it
![]() The voltage is fine. My DVM has gone tits up! A mate came round today and I mentioned the problem to him. We went and listened to some music and checked the incoming mains on my Belkin. Came back and checked with DVM. 330vac. Tried and another DVM and it was 246vac. The rest is history ![]() I love a happy ending. Thanks to all for your input. Rob. |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Milan
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I had similar problems once with a cheap meter.
It was only the (very) low battery. |
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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I am finishing off the case for the dual PS. I added an LED for each PS. Each PS is exactly the same. DC voltages are a very stable +38-0 -38 for each PS. However when I switch it off one LED takes about 3 times longer to fade (the first one to fade takes about 40 seconds)
Any ideas anyone? Rob. |
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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Up-date. Both LED's fade at the same rate when the PS is under load. I have now finished the enclosure for the amp which includes a speaker protection circuit. I have added a suitable transformer for the speaker protection with the dual PS for the amps, which is wired to the ac inlet.
With the bulb tester the 2A fuse is fine. Without it blows. It will blow a 3.15 fuse as well. When using the bulb tester it will glow very brightly and then dim, even if it is switched on and off after a few minutes. Should I use a CL60 on the mains inlet? |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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A CL60 on the main PS feed has done it. No more blown fuses. I suppose with a total of 80,000uf (both boards) it needs it.
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