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Old 2nd September 2011, 05:23 AM   #1
Recvery is offline Recvery  United States
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Default Onkyo amp expert help needed.. or really anyone that can diagnose a problem

Helloooooo audioooo loversss

I've owned my onkyo m506rs for about 3 years now and ive experienced this problem once before. It seemed to solve itself so I forgot the issue even existe.... UNTIL today

My problem is when i turn the amp on it seems to have to stages (when working correctly). It clicks on and glows orange in the front panel for a moment then clicks again and should glow green (my green lights dont work so its just dark). The usual orange to green is some sort of powering on stage before it is ready. Today, it does not leave the orange phase and it will not produce sound I use the onkyo p306RS preamp (no problems with it), and i do not have the super servo cable installed due to the rarity making them so hard to find. I also do not have the ground wire installed, mainly because I dont know what or how to use it. I would very much appreciate anyone taking the time to reach out and assist me as i love my onkyo with a passion and i would love to gain information on the ins and outs of her!!!
Click the image to open in full size. Ive got an onkyo M506-Rs that wont go past the powering on stage and wont produce sound. I already posted once, but i have no idea what area of forum to post in because im a newb. Problem started today after i was watching a movie and had the Amp on for a few hours. i stepped out of the room and came back to the orange lights that usually greet me when powering the system up. Now it wont go past the powering on stage
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Old 2nd September 2011, 06:20 AM   #2
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Replace bipolar electrolyte caps in relay protection circuit.
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Old 2nd September 2011, 12:07 PM   #3
Mooly is online now Mooly  United Kingdom
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Free manual here...
Onkyo M-506RS | Owners Manual, Service Manual, Schematics, Free Download | HiFi Engine

A lot depends on your experience/knowledge as to whether you feel confident working on this.

Initial checks have to be along the lines of,

1. Are all supplies correct including sub regulators.
2. Is the DC offset zero on each channel on the PCB before the relays.

Feeling with this is that it will be something like a dry joint/print problem around any semiconductors that run hot or a semiconductor gone OC such as a base emitter junction on a driver transistor or reg.

After a quick check of the above it needs systematic and detailed voltage checks to reveal the problem.
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Old 2nd September 2011, 05:00 PM   #4
Recvery is offline Recvery  United States
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I cannot express my gratitude enough for those who replied! Although it seems you are speaking gibberish to me. Is there any way to dumb down your diagnoses? The last time i encountered this problem i simply turned it off and let her cool down for a night. She powered right up the next day with no problems. Is there anyone i could send this to for repairs? My grandfather gave this too me and i am very attached...
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Old 2nd September 2011, 06:04 PM   #5
Mooly is online now Mooly  United Kingdom
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Hmmm... sounds as though this might be a bit of an ambitious an undertaking for you tbh.

The fact that it has done this before and appears to right itself confirms even more that it might... and I say might... be nothing more than a dry joint (poor soldering) on a component.

With it all unplugged it might be worth having a close inspection of the PCB for dry joints.

You would have to ask locally for anywhere that might look at this...
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Old 11th September 2011, 11:01 AM   #6
sbrads is offline sbrads  United Kingdom
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I feel that QSerraTico_Tico is correct here. I've just had the very same problem with a Harman Kardon HKTS7 100w sub. That also has the 2 colour LED to show standby/active and it was stuck in standby. The cause was a 1uF capacitor in the fast response AC mains detection circuit that allows the speaker relay to close. If the ON signal to the relay doesn't happen (or if there's overcurrent, overtemperature, DC offset etc) then it remains in standby. The 1uF cap measured 0.9uF which is still in spec and wasn't leaky so it's bad design. I put in a slightly larger value to stop it happening again.
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