SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales

diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Here is the relevant guide excerpt.
 

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I'm trying to implement the things I've learned from the BiB in an amp I'm building. There is a 4V7 zener with a filter cap. So better to change it to a smaller zener ( to get same voltage drop as before) + a resistor ~220 Ohm to enhance filtering ? To get a RC filter ?
Sorry for being off-topic here, Erik.
 
Greetings,

Let it be kbown that I am not a seasoned expert in DIY audio.
So here is my BIB project:

got 18V + reg for an I/V section of a dac.
got 5.45V + reg for the digital section of a td1545a dac chip.

the bibs are powered by separate tfos.
the dac board shares the same ground plane.

I've tested both segments individually.

My question is:

Can I connect the 2 bibs on the board? IE: share same ground plane but powered from different tfos? If not, what is required to share the same ground from 2 different bibs?

regards.
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
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I'm trying to implement the things I've learned from the BiB in an amp I'm building. There is a 4V7 zener with a filter cap. So better to change it to a smaller zener ( to get same voltage drop as before) + a resistor ~220 Ohm to enhance filtering ? To get a RC filter ?
Sorry for being off-topic here, Erik.

Use two green leds and a diode instead, says the radical solution.:)
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
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Greetings,

Let it be kbown that I am not a seasoned expert in DIY audio.
So here is my BIB project:

got 18V + reg for an I/V section of a dac.
got 5.45V + reg for the digital section of a td1545a dac chip.

the bibs are powered by separate tfos.
the dac board shares the same ground plane.

I've tested both segments individually.

My question is:

Can I connect the 2 bibs on the board? IE: share same ground plane but powered from different tfos? If not, what is required to share the same ground from 2 different bibs?

regards.

That has only to do with how the dac is configured. If it has same ground plane, you have no other choice it seems.
 
Fixed voltage...NOT

Back to the SSLV...

Soldered second 6.8K resistor to the backside of the each board (since I had the distinct feeling that it would work),
et voilà, everything is working as expected. Lots of range from about 21V to more than my needed +-30V.

CCS current is a bit uneven between polarities so I'll probably switch to a 10R for the positive reg. I can also wait until
I have it connected to the circuit (EHHA RevA headphone amp that draws about 70mA each channel). For that I have
to have custom toroids wound (~2x27Vish and 9V for the heaters of the 6GM8) so time to work on some other project. ;)

Anyway, big thank you! Seems as if you are making a lot of DIY'ers happy lately...
 

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Crafty. Why you went in to that trouble though? Used up one and got left with a positive board short for a double mono +Vcc project?

Hi Salas,

My Buffalo uses 5 positive and 1 negative reg (+/-15V, +5V, 2 x 3.3v, +1.2V), thus the desire. Yeah, I know the boards are inexpensive (but high quality :) ) but waste not want not. I did manage 1.2V with a small Vf diode (BWY29EX), but have yet to test stability with temp.

I was asked by PM about the neg to pos conversion so rather than separate replies I'll share here:

1) Reverse all diodes, caps and LED's.
2) No changes to Q201, Q206, Q204.
3) Q203 - lift pin 2 and solder to pin 3.
4) Q205 - lift pin 2 and solder to pin 3. Install in reverse.
5) Q202 - jFet pin 3 to board position 1; pin 2 to position 3; pin 1 to position 2
6) R208 - lift side next to Q202 position 3 and solder there.

salassslv11X202positivemodplan.jpg

salassslv11X202mod47RtoQ202position3.jpg
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Hi Salas,

My Buffalo uses 5 positive and 1 negative reg (+/-15V, +5V, 2 x 3.3v, +1.2V), thus the desire. Yeah, I know the boards are inexpensive (but high quality :) ) but waste not want not. I did manage 1.2V with a small Vf diode (BWY29EX), but have yet to test stability with temp.

Did you test the system yet? What PSUs had before?
 
Did you test the system yet? What PSUs had before?

Hi Salas,

So far I've only put together the converted board and another for testing. Waiting on some parts before continuing. They do outperform the 3.3V trident shunt regs (IMO). I'll be testing the +/-15V against Twisted Pear's Placid HD Bipolar; the +5V vs Placid 2.1; and the +1.2V against another trident.

Thanks again for this project. I love the low parts count on these. Might even try a PTP :)
 
I am building the 1.1 regulator for the salas riaa shunt. The LEDs in the voltage reference area are not turning on and my voltage measurements are not showing anything.

The LEDS in D302-D304 are working fine. I am also not able to measure any voltage on Q306. Any thoughts on what to troubleshoot further?

Thanks

Kerux
 
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I am building the 1.1 regulator for the salas riaa shunt. The LEDs in the voltage reference area are not turning on and my voltage measurements are not showing anything.

The LEDS in D302-D304 are working fine. I am also not able to measure any voltage on Q306. Any thoughts on what to troubleshoot further?

Thanks

Kerux

Check vgs @ Q306, then Drain to Source on Q305, Q303, Q304.
Look at page 7 of guide, in schematics for reference of path.
Make sure Q306 is not shorted (done that, same result)