SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales

Yeah...

You will probably want to remove the 100uF caps at the OPAs' input and replace them with something much smaller. I had 3 100uF caps at the input of the active devices (discrete transistors in this case) on my DAC's output stage, and replaced them with .1uF films when going to the Salas regulators. This change both kept the regulators stable, and made for a nice sonic improvement (more transparency, coupled with realistic timbre). I found when going to the Salas regs, it is an adittional advantage that big electrolytics can be eliminated in close proximity to the signal path.
 
It is up and stable upon first switch, no BOO :D
Next is to parallel a couple resistor to R101 and R103 to hit my 250mA and 5V mark then hook up to the dac ....

Salas, I owe you a couple pictures of the final product.
The black board is JP/Subbu's ES9023P Dac.

SSLV1.1 sounds better than any PS that I tried, so it is sitting on the top ;)
 

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Samoloko,

I haven't receive the PS board from Subbu yet, so there is no original psu per se.
I built a few 3-legs regular based psu from:

regulator booster - pink fish media
and the using 3-pin regulars concept from Just one thing about music - when it hits you feel no pain

The results were quite good but not as good as SSLV 1.1, obviously. My ears are nothing to be pride of. It wasn't a night and day after I swapped in the SSLV, but in a more in depth audition, the improved clarify throughout the audio range just made the listening experience that much enjoyable.

The yellow caps are some unknown brand that I have owned for quite some time. They were new, but the voltage rating is too low for my tube projects. Since the build guide suggests 4.7uF to 10uF film caps, they fit the bill :)

In short, it is well worth the effort to build and try!!
 
I've read all 191 pages during a 'busy' day at work but I still have questions sadly.. :p

Can someone please confirm 36v AC is enough for a solid 45v DC out?

I know 36 x 1.41 -0.7 = 50v but of course that will go up and down a bit and will depend on my diodes.

Ideally I'd like to use some 40v AC transformers that are easily available but that will be too much for Q102?

40 x 1.41 - 0.7 = 55.7v

Earlier in the thread Salas mentions you need to take into account the LED drop at D102/103/104 which would put this in the correct range just about but risky? I'm willing to live on the edge but this is too much?

Thanks
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
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I would rather use 1.32 to 1.35 multiplier for full bridge and 50VA transformer for AC to DC expectations. You don't want it to go over 55V when your mains value is topping. And you don't want it to go less than 50V when it is low. Do you have a rough picture for mains variations at your residency?
 
I would rather use 1.32 to 1.35 multiplier for full bridge and 50VA transformer for AC to DC expectations. You don't want it to go over 55V when your mains value is topping. And you don't want it to go less than 50V when it is low. Do you have a rough picture for mains variations at your residency?

I've logged my mains voltage over 24 hours, 150,000 samples and it is pretty stable. The peak time dip is not caused by my premises, we had hardly anything running so I guess that happens every night as people come home from work.



I guess I'll try the 40v 65va transformer and if it is too high stick some resistors on the secondary.

Thanks
 
Magsy, just remember that your mains voltage will also fluctuate from season to season and from weekday to weekend depending on demographic and mix of commercial and residential customers that are also connected to the same LV circuit and same distribution feeder as you.

One day may not necessarily be representative of the mains voltage fluctuations that you experience.
 
I understand, the situation is not ideal re the transformer and I'll do a few spot checks but realistically living sub-urban in the UK I'm away from any industry plus I've not had a power outage in ten years; it's all a bit boring over here :)

I'm looking at custom transformers (2x38v), I just don't want to pay for them :p

Can someone confirm where the +5v headroom needs to be present? Measured after rectification and the smoothing cap? or at Q102?
 
Samoloko,

I haven't receive the PS board from Subbu yet, so there is no original psu per se.
I built a few 3-legs regular based psu from:

regulator booster - pink fish media
and the using 3-pin regulars concept from Just one thing about music - when it hits you feel no pain

The results were quite good but not as good as SSLV 1.1, obviously. My ears are nothing to be pride of. It wasn't a night and day after I swapped in the SSLV, but in a more in depth audition, the improved clarify throughout the audio range just made the listening experience that much enjoyable.

The yellow caps are some unknown brand that I have owned for quite some time. They were new, but the voltage rating is too low for my tube projects. Since the build guide suggests 4.7uF to 10uF film caps, they fit the bill :)

In short, it is well worth the effort to build and try!!

thank you for reply Fred
I doubt that original PSU will be close to BIB
I feel that C out and C ref filt caps define character of sound and your film caps are not known to me - they look like auricaps which are preffered for some users here - If you like to try 2 x 10 uF / 200 V auricap not XO I can add an order to your to get price discount
PS I also wait ES 9023 pcbs and psu from subbu
regards
 
they dont look anything like auricap... they are yellow, but thats where the similarity ends. auricap have wax or potted sides in turquoise, red and black stranded leads and...auricap printed on them.

waiting for a bunch of the XO to get here, we got some in the radial and axial lead, so I will try on the SSLV as well