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SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales
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Old 6th April 2014, 06:48 AM   #2741
2channel is offline 2channel  New Zealand
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Oh, and connect according to capacitor polarity as shown, (Ignore my layout of the Salas). If the caps are wired with the wrong polarity then BOOM!
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Old 6th April 2014, 08:15 AM   #2742
bkdog is offline bkdog
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SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2channel View Post
The picture below shows a standard split rail rectifier using a single bridge. You can use individual diodes.

Is this what you are trying to achieve?

Jeremy
Jeremy, I think that pic is wrong, it's wrong on the site it came from, the bridge is connected the wrong way. I think it should be like it is shown here: Bridge Rectifier, Power supplies
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Old 6th April 2014, 02:21 PM   #2743
necplusultra is offline necplusultra  Canada
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thanks all,

I ended up using 2channel's corrected schematic (the schematic shown is erroneous).
I did not want to use an external rectifier so I decided to use the onboard diodes and jumpers to implement the schematic. I'll try to post pics asap.

regards
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Old 6th April 2014, 05:25 PM   #2744
necplusultra is offline necplusultra  Canada
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Default center tapped balanced supply example connection

Here's my connection for a balanced supply with a center tapped transformer
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Old 9th April 2014, 03:35 PM   #2745
Peterma is offline Peterma  Australia
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Hi i was wondering if someone could help me with my salas shunt modules from the tda1541 red baron dac forum, the positive regulation works but the negative modules arent working at all voltage in is good and has negative volts going in but no reguation, leds arent lighting up and cant adjust negative voltage, thanks if anyone could give some advise
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Old 9th April 2014, 03:40 PM   #2746
Tea-Bag is offline Tea-Bag  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterma View Post
Hi i was wondering if someone could help me with my salas shunt modules from the tda1541 red baron dac forum, the positive regulation works but the negative modules arent working at all voltage in is good and has negative volts going in but no reguation, leds arent lighting up and cant adjust negative voltage, thanks if anyone could give some advise
Are the 4 LEDs in backwards possibly?. It's not like I don't do that all the time
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Old 10th April 2014, 11:53 PM   #2747
Peterma is offline Peterma  Australia
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Thanks for your help I found the problem just earth connection.
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Old 18th April 2014, 06:03 PM   #2748
alexkosha is offline alexkosha  United States
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Hi Salas,

Please advice what Ele-cap would be a good choice for C102/C202/C302 with 50V. In my case, Nichicon KZ and Elna RFS are both 16 mm dia. It is too big for me. I need something 10 - 12.5 mm MAX.
How bout Panasonic FC or FR? They are both 10 mm in dia.
I'm not sure about quality vs. Elna or Nichicon and low impedance caps usage in that position...

Thank you.
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Old 18th April 2014, 07:19 PM   #2749
Salas is online now Salas  Greece
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C102/C202/C302 are film cap positions. C101/C201/C301 are ecap positions. Nichicon Muse KZ 100uF 50V is 12.5mm for instance. Which is enough of filtering if not for a particularly noise sensitive application. 220uF 35V Nichicon Muse ES BP is 12.5mm too if Vout<35V. Then there are the FC & FR of course. Which are very long life and good quality in general.
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Old 18th April 2014, 09:19 PM   #2750
alexkosha is offline alexkosha  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salas View Post
C102/C202/C302 are film cap positions. C101/C201/C301 are ecap positions. Nichicon Muse KZ 100uF 50V is 12.5mm for instance. Which is enough of filtering if not for a particularly noise sensitive application. 220uF 35V Nichicon Muse ES BP is 12.5mm too if Vout<35V. Then there are the FC & FR of course. Which are very long life and good quality in general.
Got you. I need 50V since I use about 40-45V out.
So, I'll use Pan FR 270uF 50v. I have them in my stock.
Thank you.
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