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SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales
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Old 7th April 2012, 08:21 PM   #1031
merlin el mago is offline merlin el mago
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I used 1000uF 63V Pana FC for clock bypassed with 0,1uF FT3, I have on hand:

-1000uF 16V Pana FM
-1000uF 63V pana FC
-470uF 25V Pana FM
-470uF 63V Elna Silmic II
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Old 8th April 2012, 10:27 AM   #1032
merlin el mago is offline merlin el mago
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Wich one be the best or wich one do you suggest to try first?
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Old 8th April 2012, 12:03 PM   #1033
pedefede is offline pedefede  Denmark
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I got 100 2sk117gr (measured with 9V battery in the range from 2,8mA to 6,1mA), so wonderd what the optimum IDSS is for Q102, 103, 105 ???

The bib guide in appendix5 says to use
Q102 = small Idss
Q103 = medium
Q105 = highest idss

Is that because
- Q102 should be like 3mA; Q103 = 4mA, and Q105 5mA?
- or because the all should be as low as possible (but with Q102 most important for performance)?
- or because the all should be as high as possible (but with Q105 most important for performance)?

peter
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Old 8th April 2012, 12:35 PM   #1034
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales
Its not critical, the way you say it circa 3-4-5 is a good use.
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Old 15th April 2012, 11:51 AM   #1035
TheShaman is offline TheShaman  Europe
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My M.E.S.S.* is ready.


*M2Tech Evo Salas Supply
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Old 15th April 2012, 11:56 AM   #1036
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales
Those things must be really tiny. Did you get to listen to the combo better?
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Old 15th April 2012, 12:08 PM   #1037
TheShaman is offline TheShaman  Europe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salas View Post
Those things must be really tiny. Did you get to listen to the combo better?
Yeap! Definitely sounds better than both the stock switching supply and the LM317-based one I was using.
Smoother highs and bigger sound-stage (the latter effect is especially shocking with headphones).

Thanks Salas (and Tea-Bag for organizing these great GBs)!
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Old 15th April 2012, 12:12 PM   #1038
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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The S,
have you posted build and/or design details in another Thread?
Links please.

I had the idea in my head that IS was a very local connection (all inside a PCB).
I see an external socket. How far can IS run?
I also see sense going out of the very nice PSU.

I know I am safety conscious.
Can you fit a cover over the mains fuse?
Can you insulate the mains wire ends of the fuse holder?
Can you insulate the case under the fuse holder and an area around it, just in case something moves/drops/touches?
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Last edited by AndrewT; 15th April 2012 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 15th April 2012, 12:22 PM   #1039
TheShaman is offline TheShaman  Europe
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Hi Andrew,

I don't think I've posted any details.
M2Tech EVO is a commercial product (you can find more about it here) - I just built the external PSU.
The EVO's I2S output is buffered. Works fine up to at least 25cm (that's the max I need), using S/FTP cable.
If I wanted to send it farther away, I'd probably use something like this.

Regarding the shunt, I've used R-Core transformer, Panasonic & Wima caps, Dale and Ohmite resistors, Stealth II diodes, a Schaffner filter with earth choke and a 4-pin Neutrik "XLR" connector at the output.
The external cable uses silver-plated, teflon-insulated copper wires (I buy off eBay), two pairs of UTP for sense and Belden copper braid for shielding.

Current is set at 800mA but it's too much for this enclosure. I suspect the EVO has a lower idle consumption than what the M2Tech people told me since things were better heat-wise with an equivalent dummy load.
Heat is manageable for an one hour listening session or something but I'd rather have it run 24/7 (since the EVO feeds both my PC and main system DACs).
I'll drop it to ~600mA as soon as I get new resistors.
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Last edited by TheShaman; 15th April 2012 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 15th April 2012, 12:31 PM   #1040
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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I much prefer higher value resistors soldered in parallel. The original DCB1 could accommodate six //Rs for each CCS.
Then it is cheap and easy to increase CCS current by adding extra resistors and no de-soldering required. If the heat proves to be too much, then that last addition can be snipped off.

How does voltage regulator sense work into some other manufacturer's product?
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