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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
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Well you gave me a very nice news sir
The dc/dc converter is not cheap (7 euros for one) but overall i believe it will be a cheaper solution.42 milliamperes on each rail should be enough to drive an OPA2134 right? Last edited by karmik; 27th June 2011 at 07:26 AM. |
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#32 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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It will run several OPA2134 (10ma per package worst case) so no problems there.
__________________
------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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#33 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Torpoint
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Quote:
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#34 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
__________________
------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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#35 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
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Quote:
(Just fix the small error: R1/R2 junction should tie to the +IN, not -IN, of the opmps). But if your brick can do +12V, the DC-DC convertor solution of Mooly is much more elegant. |
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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If you can get a 12v AC transformer you can use a Voltage doubler and regulators to get your +/- 12v DC then use a seperate rectifier and regulator for your 12v DC for the power amp ......
The Preamp won"t use very much current so a voltage doubler would be suitable and there isn"t a problem with it sucking more from one rail ..... Cheers |
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'll fix the schematic as soon as possible, but i think i'll go with Mooly's solution. Would it be a good idea to regulate the 2 rails after the dc/dc converter as well? or would that be overkill?
Best regards, GC |
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#38 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
You could just use a simple R/C filter feeding the opamp rails. Or just use it "as is" with suitable caps on each rail. Or again with a 15 volt reg you could use a resistor/zener/cap arrangement which in many cases for low currents is a very good option... this "shunt" arrangement is the one I use in my integrated amp.
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