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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Upstate NY
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I am trying to use Rod's fan controller circuit Thermo-Fan to keep your amplifier cool to drive a relay. The ultimate application is a fridge controller to keep it a cheese making temperatures. I'm having an issue with the relay closing and opening slowly.
It is a parts bin build as shown in Figure 2 with the following exceptions: U1 is half an OPA2134, the other half has both inputs tied to ground. D2 is a 9.1V zener. Q1 is BC556C Q2 is MJE15030 The fan is a 12V 160 ohm relay that draws 75 mA. R8 is 221R R9 is 27R Temperature sensor diode is a 1N4007 wrapped in heat shrink Power is a wall wart delivering 15.9V with just the circuit, dropping to 14.5V with the relay powered. Relay closing with temperature change took almost a second of buzzing, opening a bit longer. In an attempt to make switching faster, I reduced R7 to 1K. Some improvement. I eliminated the feedback resistor, R4 to make it a comparator hoping to make the circuit switch faster. It did, but the relay still buzzes. The voltage across the zener drops from 9.5 to 9.3V when the relay is powered. although the voltage across R8 indicates 27 and 22 mA relay off/on, so the opamp circuit seems to be working properly. The OPA2134 should draw about 10 mA, another couple mA for the rest of the regulated circuit, leaving at least 5 mA for the zener. I tried reducing R8 to 150R, with no change in operation. I haven't broken out my scope yet, but the OPA output seems to swing properly, albeit slowly, but that may be the response time of my bargain DVM. Off it sits high at .6V below the rail, Q1 base just a few mV below the rail. On, opamp output is .1V above ground, Q1 base .6V below the rail, as expected. Does anyone have any ideas to make the relay switch on and off faster? Would 100R emitter resistor for Q1 help shutoff? Thanks for your help. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Not totally answering your question but this seems a simple circuit: Simple Temperature Controller
Possibly worth trying if you have no luck with the present circuit. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Upstate NY
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Thanks, that's basically the same circuit that I have now by removing R4 - a comparator, although the output drive circuit is different and I don't have thermistors other than CL30s in my parts bin.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Up in the alps - motorcycle heaven
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The comparitor has no hysteresis and will amplify noise on the input when near the switching threshold which will swing the output rail to rail and make the relay chatter.
Give it some positive feedback (not negative feedback) and add Rin for the +ve input to be the feedback voltage divider. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Rod has another project suitable for that.
Project 131 He mentions replacing the LDR with a thermistor if the application would be to sense temp rather than light. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Upstate NY
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Thanks.
From Project 131 Quote:
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Upstate NY
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I guess I did something else at the same time as I clipped R4. I'm in one of the oddball applications. with R4=100K I got three or four vibrations, but R4=68K it snaps on and snaps off perfectly.
Thanks for pointing me to the project 131. Now to noodle on how R4 creates the hysteresis. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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No problem.
The lower resistance produces higher amount of positive feedback therefore a larger hysteresis. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Upstate NY
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Oddly, Project 42's R4 provides negative feedback. I don't get it, but the circuit works.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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in P42, R4 provides negative feedback (it is connected to the inverting input) so that the output varies linearly with regards to the input.
in P131, Positive feedback (connected to the non inverting input which results to hysteresis) allows the output to stay at only two states... ON and OFF. |
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