Well, that figure included a walnut case, but the tuner was advertised as the best Sony had to offer to compete with the top end Marantz and McIntosh tuners. It's still highly regarded forty-one years later. I'm anxious to get going again, and run it up against my Denon AVR3802. I'll let you know how it goes.
Yes, I would like to see the article on power supply design. Would probably be easier to attach it to an email and send it to hyounce@gmail.com
Yes, I would like to see the article on power supply design. Would probably be easier to attach it to an email and send it to hyounce@gmail.com
will do. Once I scan it.
I'm not surprised that Sony was going up against Marantz and McIntosh. Probably Scott and Fisher, too.
Did you get your diodes? If not, I probably have some. I got this box FULL of old components that I rescued from definite trash-can future and it has all the goodies from the sixties and seventies. Boy, I can't stop it can I...
I'm not surprised that Sony was going up against Marantz and McIntosh. Probably Scott and Fisher, too.
Did you get your diodes? If not, I probably have some. I got this box FULL of old components that I rescued from definite trash-can future and it has all the goodies from the sixties and seventies. Boy, I can't stop it can I...
Sony's up and running great! The signal level meter is not functioning properly, however, so that's my next task. Level drives needle full to the right, regardless of "level" pot adjustment. If you reverse the leads, the needle goes back left about 1/4" and stops. When disconnected, the needle is somewhat stiff to move either direction, and once there, will remain there regardless of how aggressive you shake or re-position the meter. There is continuity across the meter terminals. I suspect the meter needs lubrication, but I can't get the thing apart to investigate. I assume the two posts in the rear, that receive the mounting screws, have to be unscrewed to allow the case slip back and off, but, so far I have been unable to unscrew them. Think I'll apply some heat to them in case they have been treated with something like Locktite or lacquer. Any suggestions?
The front cover of the meter does have a couple of retention indents, and they are easily unsnapped to get access to the meter face, and what appears to be a standard DeArsonval movement. I don't like my chances of getting access to the innards of this thing, through the front, where I would have to deal directly with the tiny coil spring.
I am hoping to remove the magnet structure from around the rotating coil so I can determine if there is any drag resulting from accumulated rust, or grime, at that interface. I would also like to attempt to lubricate whatever bearing surfaces are associated with the device supporting the coil form.
Have never taken a real good look at meter components, but someone had to put all those things in there, and presumably I might have some success in tweeking them. I'm guessing that the folks that make a living repairing these things will want a pretty penny to repair mine, and then there is the realization that I'm really not too concerned at what the actual signal strength of any station happens to be. Of course, it would be nice to have all the parts in place and working.
I am hoping to remove the magnet structure from around the rotating coil so I can determine if there is any drag resulting from accumulated rust, or grime, at that interface. I would also like to attempt to lubricate whatever bearing surfaces are associated with the device supporting the coil form.
Have never taken a real good look at meter components, but someone had to put all those things in there, and presumably I might have some success in tweeking them. I'm guessing that the folks that make a living repairing these things will want a pretty penny to repair mine, and then there is the realization that I'm really not too concerned at what the actual signal strength of any station happens to be. Of course, it would be nice to have all the parts in place and working.
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