Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Power Supplies
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 3rd December 2010, 07:05 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
steptoe1111's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Default can some one please help me id this capacitor, its an easy one for an expert im sure!

hey guys how is every one
like i said in the title im just trying to id this tantalum capacitor, the markings on it are 684k 450me,
its running in a lcd power supply on the HOT side (a/c)side here is a photo
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

it looks like theres 2 of them running in paralel ,
can any one sugest a replacement part ?
maybe one jay car or radio shack carry
OR please more importantly tell me what the value of this part is at a guess i think it may be .684uf/450v would i be corect?
ps please forgive my lack of knoledge im self tought with know education
im great with poweramps and can diagnose faulty componants with a scope and multimeter plus ive built nearly every kit jaycar has to offer
but the main reason for this is because i have been given a 50 inch lcd tv
with a faulty power supply and im just haveing a poke around and found this fault wich i dout isent the only one but i can id everything els... any help is greatly apreciated thank you very much and hope everyone has a great day
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd December 2010, 08:16 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Melbourne
Just going on the size it would be a 450V part and the value is 0.68uF, the 4 is the decade multiplier 10000 nF x 0.68 in this case
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd December 2010, 09:56 AM   #3
Elvee is offline Elvee  Belgium
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
It is a plastic film cap, probably PP.

Normally quite reliable, and generally fails in a visible manner: cracks, burns, etc.

First check the lytics and power semi's, that's the most likely place for failure.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd December 2010, 06:19 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
steptoe1111's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
cheers guys
yeh this one is actualy buzzing i thougt it was an open secondry in the tranny but they all seem fine thanks for that guys
you are all unreal testing all those semiconductors soon once i got some spare
tinker time.. on the board its self there seems to be 4 d/c chanels out im geting 5v out of one, 12v out of the next and 24v out of the 3rd and nothing at all out of the forth ,
so that tells me i think the damage should be localised to a small section of the board, atleast now i can go get a replacement cap or pull another one from some junk in the spare room thanks again everyone you guys are the best
ps i hate power suplys gimme a power amp anyday
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd December 2010, 06:28 PM   #5
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Mooly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Many SMPS don't run correctly (or as you expect) with no load. Some outputs may be switched or fall to a low value as the unit enters standby. 99% of problems are dried out electroylitics. Buzzing is usually the ferrite components, maybe because the drive is incorrect.
__________________
-------------------------------------------------------
A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd December 2010, 06:29 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
steptoe1111's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvee View Post
It is a plastic film cap, probably PP.

Normally quite reliable, and generally fails in a visible manner: cracks, burns, etc.

First check the lytics and power semi's, that's the most likely place for failure.
sory mate but can you please tell me what a lytics is? i may posibly know them buy a diferent name and ive probly seen a hundred of em before what do they look like ther not those big square yellow caps that i thought were or are "mkt's"
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd December 2010, 06:32 PM   #7
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Mooly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by steptoe1111 View Post
sory mate but can you please tell me what a lytics is? i may posibly know them buy a diferent name and ive probly seen a hundred of em before what do they look like ther not those big square yellow caps that i thought were or are "mkt's"
And you are working on a SMPS scary
__________________
-------------------------------------------------------
A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd December 2010, 06:38 PM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
steptoe1111's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooly View Post
Many SMPS don't run correctly (or as you expect) with no load. Some outputs may be switched or fall to a low value as the unit enters standby. 99% of problems are dried out electroylitics. Buzzing is usually the ferrite components, maybe because the drive is incorrect.
cheers mate i was considering replaceing every electrolic cap on the board as an option
for the sake of $10 bucs or so less hassle that way because i would have to remove them anyway to leak test them
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd December 2010, 06:45 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
steptoe1111's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooly View Post
And you are working on a SMPS scary
ha ha ha ha mate i have adhd with ocd thrown in i love electronics and it keeps me sane if i posted some photos of my sound system i built over the last 4 years you would probably $#!t ya self
considering im self tought i recon im doing allright dont worry i know the risk's ive blow enogh crap up to know what not to do and isent funny if it dosent kill ya .... how much respect for electricity a good zap can give ya
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd December 2010, 06:51 PM   #10
no gas is offline no gas  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Quote:
Originally Posted by steptoe1111 View Post
sory mate but can you please tell me what a lytics is? i may posibly know them buy a diferent name and ive probly seen a hundred of em before what do they look like ther not those big square yellow caps that i thought were or are "mkt's"
lytic is short for electroLYTIC!
The caps you are pointing to are not tantalum, they are film caps. Tantalum caps max out at around 50VDC(with exceptions). As said before, they are .68uF at 450VDC.
__________________
My stuff: MC30, MC225, MX110, PAS3, ST-70, RH-84, HK A224 and a lot of parts waiting for time.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Can anyone help me ID this capacitor in crossover? silentblackhat Solid State 10 1st November 2008 01:35 AM
capacitor ID help! ryan_b Parts 3 2nd August 2006 07:45 AM
BEC Capacitor ID wrenchone Parts 0 4th March 2004 02:59 AM
Capacitor question...easy one Guiness Solid State 7 7th April 2003 09:14 PM
Hi, im new to DIY audio, im wanting to buy the audax HT kit and have a few questions undertoe Multi-Way 13 23rd January 2003 07:12 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 11:46 PM.

Page generated in 0.11917 seconds (83.01% PHP - 16.99% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio