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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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I salvaged a PS from a dead receiver that I would like to use for a preamp, the preamp runs on 18+ and 18- DC, the power supply I recovered from the dead receiver runs at 35+ and 35- DC
My question is how can I bring it down to 18+ and 18- ? Please excuse me if this sounds like a dumb question but when it comes to power supplies Im pretty much a newbie. Thanks in advance |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Eindhoven, The Netherlands
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There are many ways to do it. You write the preamp runs on +/- 18 V, but it's also helpful to know what the current drain from the PSU is in order to decide on how to bring the +/- 35 V down.
If the current drain is low or modest, a simple but very effective way is to use the ubiquitous 7818 and 7918 voltage regulators. Even better are the LM317 and LM337 voltage regulators. You'll find plenty of circuits on the internet with these... |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wild North West...of England
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You might have to use a pre-regulator when using voltage regulators though, as the maximum input voltage for the 18V version of the LM series is 35V, pushing the limits of the regulators.
Rod Elliot has a suitable design for a pre-regulator here. It requires a few calculations to work out the values for the resistors, but is otherwise an extremely simple and functional circuit. |
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#4 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Eindhoven, The Netherlands
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Quote:
Quote:
But the LM317/LM337 could be used without this prereg. It's specified Vin-Vout = max. 40 V. Since your Vin = 35 V and your Vout = 18 V, Vin-Vout = 17 V, so that's well within the limit. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lakewood, Ohio
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Can you wire the power supply primary to the 230 V setting, but plug it into 120V ?
__________________
Kevin |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Adelaide
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Pre-Regulator but use 1N4746 18V zener diodes.
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
But such a waste of a nice 35V power supply. It is likely 100+ times bigger than you need |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Adelaide
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I don't hugely like the resistor idea. It's workable if the overall output wattage is, well, tiny, as is usually the case with pre-amps, granted, but using a resistor to drop voltage is... a bit ugly.
You want lower voltage but as much current as required: bypassing current across a low wattage voltage regulator via a transistor is the best of both worlds. I've yet to find any solution to this that's better in terms of control (regulation), noise suppression, maximum power, and/or overall energy efficiency. If wanted, the Zener diode in post 7 can be replaced with a low-wattage regulator network. Then again, the OP seems to have vanished! |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
In terms of efficiency there is no difference, exactly as much power is wasted in heat with every proposed solution. The difference is in where the heat is generated and if you need a heat sink. I like the resister because it is it's own heat sink. You can buy even a 10W ceramic power resistor for 50 cents The resisor also doubles as a filter. It would act as the top of a "pi" type CRC filter and also reduce voltage at the same time. Always when youhave extra voltage you should take advantage of it an use it to run a filter. In fact with so much voltage to burn you could ues two resistors and one more capasitor and build a CRCRC filter for about $1 and change. The pass transistor does nothing to reduce noise, in fact adds some It would be different if the preamp needed more then 1A of current. |
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