Eliminating Battery Charger Noise in DIY Stereo - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 19th August 2010, 02:48 AM   #11
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I used separate power supplies for he battery charger and amp. I have a dedicated smart charger for the battery, and it only goes to the battery. A switching power supply only goes to the amp. A switch toggles between battery and line power. Doesn't add a lot of weight or take up a lot of room--but it could be external if there are concerns along those lines.

Regulating the battery sucks some power and doesn't make sense to me.

I can post a pic of the way the switch and power supplies are wired if you like.

--Buckapound
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Old 19th August 2010, 05:07 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by scwhiteley View Post
Yep. You got it. The charger is just for charging. When the battery pack is charged, I can take the stereo with me, portably, for rocking out purposes. When the battery is dead, I then plug the charger in, and it charges the battery. Repeat as necessary.
For best life you never want to run a NiCad or NiMH 'dead' and never reverse polarize either chemistry. When cells are in series, one of them will always give up first at which point it reverse polarizes from the other cells delivering power through it.

G
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Old 19th August 2010, 05:58 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scwhiteley View Post
Yep. You got it. The charger is just for charging. When the battery pack is charged, I can take the stereo with me, portably, for rocking out purposes. When the battery is dead, I then plug the charger in, and it charges the battery. Repeat as necessary.
I think I get it. you want it kind of like the way a laptop computer charges/users power?
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Old 19th August 2010, 02:34 PM   #14
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Another thing to consider is that the charger will probably not have enough current to both charge the battery and power the amp. Limiting current is a common feature of battery chargers, from what I know. Also, it seems possible that the current draw of the amp may change the way the charger operates, since it thinks it's only seeing a battery attached, and so may not operate as it is supposed to with respect to charging.

--Buckapound
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Old 19th August 2010, 10:03 PM   #15
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Excellent, thanks for all the input

Quote:
Originally Posted by stratus46 View Post
For best life you never want to run a NiCad or NiMH 'dead' and never reverse polarize either chemistry. When cells are in series, one of them will always give up first at which point it reverse polarizes from the other cells delivering power through it.

G
Quick question Stratus46... I knew there were some risks in using and charging all the batteries as one big pack, and I haven't taken any major precautions yet try to extend the life of the pack (I think I probably should though, those puppies are expensive). Up until now, I usually charge the stereo before it goes completely dead. But now that you mention it perhaps I should add a failsafe into the newer model. What would you suggest? Perhaps an adjustable regulator that would just shut the stereo off if the supply voltage goes below some threshold value...? Any idea on the best way to do this. (Sorry, I'm going a bit off my own topic)

Thanks, SCW
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Old 20th August 2010, 08:53 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by scwhiteley View Post
Excellent, thanks for all the input



Quick question Stratus46... I knew there were some risks in using and charging all the batteries as one big pack, and I haven't taken any major precautions yet try to extend the life of the pack (I think I probably should though, those puppies are expensive). Up until now, I usually charge the stereo before it goes completely dead. But now that you mention it perhaps I should add a failsafe into the newer model. What would you suggest? Perhaps an adjustable regulator that would just shut the stereo off if the supply voltage goes below some threshold value...? Any idea on the best way to do this. (Sorry, I'm going a bit off my own topic)

Thanks, SCW
NiCad / NiMH typically start at max voltage and fairly quickly drop to a plateau where they only slowly droop until they begin to rapidly decline. That's the point where you want to shut down and recharge. The voltage levels may be temperature sensitive.

If you are a little nuts, a microcontroller battery monitor might be a fun project. A built-in A-D converter and some software could make a fine battery monitor and consume very little power.

The Freescale (Motorola) bugs run 1-2 mA while operating so would not waste appreciable power. PIC processors can do this too. You have many options and would not be expensive and get an education to boot (pun intended). The radio controlled model folks have a great deal of info on batteries along with manufacturers of batteries and semiconductors.

Mission creep isn't too big a deal when you're simply using EEPROM already in the chip. Clocks, timers, LCD readouts are possible.

G
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