needing some ideas for a radio controlled car re capacitors!! - Page 3 - diyAudio
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Old 25th July 2010, 02:00 AM   #21
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I don't want to have to desolder these crapacitors

I'll try and find some 25volt, low esr...

edit: they claim these to be?

http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp...6&form=KEYWORD

and 105 degree, and the shop is just down the road from me..

some dimensions might be nice too
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Old 25th July 2010, 02:08 AM   #22
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ok, I have the catalogue, and it actually lists the full specs.

impedance: 0.06ohms
ripple current: 1210ma

is that ripple current realistically anywhere near enough?
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Old 25th July 2010, 02:11 AM   #23
godfrey is offline godfrey  South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThyDntWntMusic View Post
I don't want to have to desolder these crapacitors
Just add more
Maybe a separate capacitor bank...
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Old 25th July 2010, 02:45 AM   #24
godfrey is offline godfrey  South Africa
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Looks like you found the 63V caps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThyDntWntMusic View Post
... is that ripple current realistically anywhere near enough?
I have absolutely no idea but if you're going to find out the hard way, don't stand in the line of fire.

Seriously - when these things explode, the metal can shoots off like a bullet.
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Old 25th July 2010, 03:05 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jambi View Post
Silly question but what are the actual ratings for the speed controller? These things are built for toys not industry, they're wimpy, without adequate cooling or are open to elements and can short out easily. Further there's very little margin as to where they'll work happily for more than five minutes. Your charged battery could easily trigger overvoltage proection for instance.
if its a silly question, why are you asking it?

what do you actually want to know?

Quote:
* Continuous current: 120A
* BEC: 3A/6V
* Suitable for car: 1/8 car
* Motor Type: Sensored / Sensor less brushless motor
* Momentary Peak Current: 760A
* Size: 66 x 53 x 42mm
* Cable type: 12AWG 200C
* Length: 150mm (battery) , 140mm (motor) , 280mm (receiver)
* Weight: 350g
* Input: 6-12 cells NiMH/NiCd or 2-4 cells LiPo.
it doesn't have overvoltage protection, and it isn't going to short out unless I drive it through water, which I did..
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Old 25th July 2010, 04:07 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jambi View Post
Yeah, when the parts are melting things will short sooner than you realize.

They probably rate these in a wind tunnel. You should consider dropping your battery voltage to something that falls in between the min/max spec and consider that your real world usable max. Stick to 12 volts.

Seperate your output from your input wires too, might help a bit, probably not. Consider solid polymer caps.
you don't seem very smart.

but thanks for the input...
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Old 25th July 2010, 04:51 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jambi View Post
From a guy who brings his broken toy car to an audio forum.. and believes toy marketing specs
no, I asked about capacitors on a forum where most people are quite knowledgeable. Most.. but not all..

There's no point in asking about capacitors on a hobby forum, as I'm quite sure they'd have no idea!

I've pulled enough speed controllers apart to believe the continuous specs, what specs are you questioning?
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Old 25th July 2010, 05:52 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jambi View Post
To the ignorant, a smart person is someone that tells them whatever they want to hear.

Other people in this thread have already given you similar advice not to believe the specs. I know you want the fastest toy on the block. I know you went out and bought the hottest battery, the hottest ESC, the hottest motor and oops, doesn't work so well, does it?

How about timing options is that all set to flat out as well?

It might work better had you a motor that had 30 turns instead of 2 or 6 but lacking that you might want to derate the voltage so that you get closer to the 120 amps it is rated for instead of the 160 you are getting, clearly you're using it out of spec.
hottest? how do you mean hottest? as in, the hottest running?

Its already obvious that you have some idea, but not a lot.

I simply bought the cheapest motor possible, as I'm already using 3 others the same, or similar without issue.

dropping the voltage isn't the answer to reducing the current, dropping the gearing down is, and I have some new pinion gears on the way, but I'm not sure that will help with the hot capacitors.

Its more like a 6 turn motor, and its perfect for the esc, and the battery, just need some gearing changes.

I know you've probably grown up with brushed motors, drawing 10amps or less, but why would I want that?
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Old 25th July 2010, 10:47 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jambi View Post
Yeah, like I live and die by "your" performance review.. You might like to stop projecting your insecurity.

If you brought this question to a relevant forum they'd be likely to tell you what I just did, so you probably went elsewhere.

That you're getting 160 while it is rated to 120 is indicative of your using it out of specification.

What will help with the heat reduction, which is likely the main problem, is to derate the voltage.

Your other choice is to improve on cooling and it is unlikely you'll be able to do much there.

Those 10 amp motors did 30k to 50k RPM on just 10 amps before melting down the speed controllers. You're using over 10 times that and obviously not getting any further.
I'm really not sure what you're arguing anymore?

most likely arguing for the sake of it would be my guess, but whatever works for you.

I'll most likely replace the capacitors with the low esr 25volt from Jaycar, and reduce the pinion from 15t down to 13t.
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Old 26th July 2010, 11:01 AM   #30
godfrey is offline godfrey  South Africa
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I thought you were going for the 63V caps?
Lower ESR and higher ripple current than the 25V ones.
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