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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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when re-capping a vintage amp do you always need to replace the large filter caps? I see places sell large caps as NOS, does this mean they age better then smaller value caps?
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#2 |
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Banned
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What do you mean by large?
The larger capacitors in amps are generally electrolytics, which have poorer lives than other (smaller) types due to the loss of electrolytic over time. When re-capping an amp, you need to replace those caps which are out of spec. Determining which these are is another matter. Typically people replace all the electrolytics as a precautionary measure and hopefully to extend the future life of the amp before it needs attention again. The other caps will be left unchanged unless there is a particular reason to think there is need. Electrolytics can deteriorate in storage as in use. NOS generally implies a period of storage. w |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Front Row Center
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NOS ... What is NOS ?
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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NOS = New Old Stock
Steve @ Apex Jr. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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by large caps I mean the big filter caps on the power supply. large capacitance.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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This datasheet of Panasonic FM does show correlation between bigger capacitance and lifetime.
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/26036.pdf |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Quote:
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Jeffersonville, Indiana USA
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All the photos of cap explosions I have seen on the internet (i haven't seen every one obviously) was a pretty big filter cap for a power supply unit. I blew a little one on a battery charger trans by putting it in backwards, it hissed and bubbled but did not throw conductive borax water all over everything the way a big one can. Some of the Mallory 10 15 and 20 uf units In my 1968 organ and 1970 tube tester seem to be doing fine, (the harp circuit on the H100 works okay, replacing all 110 of them would cost $160) whereas replacing the can filter caps (about 800 uf total at 350-450 volts) raised the volume by about 30 db and restored function to the "percussion" circuit which was dead powered by 1968 can caps. The above chassis can caps replaced were Sprague cans, mostly. Eveybody that has thought about buying an unrestored H100 has complained about the low volume, whereas mine with new caps will rattle the sheet music and the windows.
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Dynakit ST70, ST120, PAS2,Hammond H182(2 ea),H112,A100,10-82TC,Peavey CS800S,SP2-XT's, T-300 HF Projs, Steinway console, Herald RA88a mixer, Wurlitzer 4500 |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Anything electrolytic over 30 years of age is to be replaced, or else it's your own risk!
Tim
__________________
See my Electronics webpage -- the home of Vacuum Tube Drag Racing. The key to being a successful Audiophile: "I reject your reality and substitute my own!" |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
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You guys all probably know this, but for the record temperature is by far the most significant factor aging an electrolytic cap. Sprague used to have some good pages showing this kind of stuff. All the other variables are completely swamped by that one. Interesting (to me) that DC voltage up to the working voltage is pretty insignificant too, which is good info for people looking to build a bulletproof amp, don't bother getting caps overated for voltage, moving them another inch from the closest resistor or heat source will have a much better effect.
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