Help in this PS pcb

carcass · 28th October 2009, 03:13 AM

Hi there,

I am modding a Playstation One as per Dr. Mick Feuerbacher articles (dogbreath.de), and would like to design his proposed power supply on a simple pcb.

This is also going to be a part of my latest finding that I can print directly on the copper pcb using my HP inkjet printer (which uses pigment inks and can print on rigid materials) and then just etch!

So, for simplicity I would like to use one layer only.

This is the circuit,

and my approach to it,

and maybe with a ground plane?

The part sizes reflect what I have in hand, the board size is 110x50mm so I would like to ask if the layout seems ok or not?

thank you,
carcass

MJL21193 · 28th October 2009, 03:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carcass

This is also going to be a part of my latest finding that I can print directly on the copper pcb using my HP inkjet printer (which uses pigment inks and can print on rigid materials) and then just etch!

Layout looks good.

I'm interested in the printer you have in mind for this. Model #?

carcass · 28th October 2009, 03:42 AM

what does ? the 1st or the second ?

can I use the same ground plane through the rectifier?
I'm so noob!!!

it's a Photosmart Pro B9180, it says it can print up to 1.5mm, but today I've tested it on a 1.6mm cardboard and all went well...

marce · 28th October 2009, 01:58 PM

I'd use the bottom one, but cut down the size of the thermal relief space and increase the spoke width on the ground connections.

carcass · 29th October 2009, 03:12 AM

thank you Marce, but try as I may in design rules / supply I simply cannot instruct eagle to do clean connections as in your image ?!

the best compromise I've got was to make a relationship between thermal space and pad size (considering that I use the round "pads" as solid copper with just a small drill hole)

another thing I've found out after a test print on cardboard, was that the eagle library (even using standard parts as TO-220V) has the dimensions messed up?! all of the parts drill holes seem to be far apart than in reality by a couple of mm

Anyone faced something similar in eagle?

thanks again

Greg Erskine · 05:33 AM

Use Eagle's Info command to adjust width and isolate parameters of the polygon.

Ripup the traces that are connected to the pads that are in the polygon, let thermals do the job.

I think you will find the Eagle libraries are OK, you must be making an error printing the actual size.

Also, you might want to think about connecting the heatsink to the ground plane.

marce · 29th October 2009, 01:44 PM

Hi Carcass, unfortenatley I cant help with specifics of eagle as I havn't used it yet, as so many use it and its free I am going to download it time permitting. I have and use (in order of preferenc) Cadstar, Allegro and Orcad.

carcass · 29th October 2009, 02:46 PM

Thank you marce and Greg, it's working much better now

As for the print, external board dimensions are absolutely correct, but as for parts like the MSR860 or even the LM317 it seems that the drill space is a bit off, maybe my parts batch that were a little off?! have to confirm with the caliper...

another question to Greg, how do I connect the heatsink to ground in board?

I can do it in post, but auto?!

but I think I'm getting there, so thumbs up!

Greg Erskine · 29th October 2009, 06:27 PM

hi carcass,

It does look better, but are you fudging the results. What you are doing with eagle should be easy and automatic. If you move a component there should be no fiddling to make things look OK again.

I'm not sure how to connect the heatsink to ground if there are no connect pins on the schematic.

I think I understand what you are describing with the components. Components are usually designed to fit on a 2.54 mm grid (0.1 inch) So if the spacing between the leads is 2.2 mm the leads need to be bent a little. You can redesign the components with exact lead spacing but that will make placing the tracks more difficult.

regards

carcass · 29th October 2009, 08:50 PM

well, I've made what you said, ripup the "gnd" traces and adjusted the polygon within info, the only thing I've changed was the pad colour to blue?!

So it was all automatic, as for the heatsink, I think I have to change the lib to have regular pins...

My main concern was to have some ac (connected to the rectifier part) to share the same ground plane as the rest of the circuit, but I guess it's ok?

This is a rather small board designed for ~7.5V 1.5A max.

Thank you again Greg!

28th October 2009, 03:13 AM	#1
carcass diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	Help in this PS pcb Hi there, I am modding a Playstation One as per Dr. Mick Feuerbacher articles (dogbreath.de), and would like to design his proposed power supply on a simple pcb. This is also going to be a part of my latest finding that I can print directly on the copper pcb using my HP inkjet printer (which uses pigment inks and can print on rigid materials) and then just etch! So, for simplicity I would like to use one layer only. This is the circuit, and my approach to it, and maybe with a ground plane? The part sizes reflect what I have in hand, the board size is 110x50mm so I would like to ask if the layout seems ok or not? thank you, carcass

29th October 2009, 05:18 AM	#6
Greg Erskine diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Sydney/Australia	Use Eagle's Info command to adjust width and isolate parameters of the polygon. Ripup the traces that are connected to the pads that are in the polygon, let thermals do the job. I think you will find the Eagle libraries are OK, you must be making an error printing the actual size. Also, you might want to think about connecting the heatsink to the ground plane. __________________ Greg Erskine Last edited by Greg Erskine; 29th October 2009 at 05:33 AM.

29th October 2009, 02:46 PM	#8
carcass diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	thanks Thank you marce and Greg, it's working much better now As for the print, external board dimensions are absolutely correct, but as for parts like the MSR860 or even the LM317 it seems that the drill space is a bit off, maybe my parts batch that were a little off?! have to confirm with the caliper... another question to Greg, how do I connect the heatsink to ground in board? I can do it in post, but auto?! but I think I'm getting there, so thumbs up!

29th October 2009, 06:27 PM	#9
Greg Erskine diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Sydney/Australia	hi carcass, It does look better, but are you fudging the results. What you are doing with eagle should be easy and automatic. If you move a component there should be no fiddling to make things look OK again. I'm not sure how to connect the heatsink to ground if there are no connect pins on the schematic. I think I understand what you are describing with the components. Components are usually designed to fit on a 2.54 mm grid (0.1 inch) So if the spacing between the leads is 2.2 mm the leads need to be bent a little. You can redesign the components with exact lead spacing but that will make placing the tracks more difficult. regards __________________ Greg Erskine

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28th October 2009, 03:42 AM	#3
carcass diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	what does ? the 1st or the second ? can I use the same ground plane through the rectifier? I'm so noob!!! it's a Photosmart Pro B9180, it says it can print up to 1.5mm, but today I've tested it on a 1.6mm cardboard and all went well...

29th October 2009, 03:12 AM	#5
carcass diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	thank you Marce, but try as I may in design rules / supply I simply cannot instruct eagle to do clean connections as in your image ?! the best compromise I've got was to make a relationship between thermal space and pad size (considering that I use the round "pads" as solid copper with just a small drill hole) another thing I've found out after a test print on cardboard, was that the eagle library (even using standard parts as TO-220V) has the dimensions messed up?! all of the parts drill holes seem to be far apart than in reality by a couple of mm Anyone faced something similar in eagle? thanks again

29th October 2009, 01:44 PM	#7
marce diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Blackburn, Lancs	Hi Carcass, unfortenatley I cant help with specifics of eagle as I havn't used it yet, as so many use it and its free I am going to download it time permitting. I have and use (in order of preferenc) Cadstar, Allegro and Orcad.

29th October 2009, 08:50 PM	#10
carcass diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	well, I've made what you said, ripup the "gnd" traces and adjusted the polygon within info, the only thing I've changed was the pad colour to blue?! So it was all automatic, as for the heatsink, I think I have to change the lib to have regular pins... My main concern was to have some ac (connected to the rectifier part) to share the same ground plane as the rest of the circuit, but I guess it's ok? This is a rather small board designed for ~7.5V 1.5A max. Thank you again Greg!

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