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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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http://sound.westhost.com/project39.htm
Some questions: Digi-key doesn't have the BC558 in stock. What's a suitable replacement? Can I replace the aux transformer and rectifying diodes with a DC wall-wart supply? How does the earthing work? I don't know anything about relays. What should I use?
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet |
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#2 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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Yes you could use a wall wart as long as it is switched from the same switch/plug socket as the power amp.
Any small general purpose PNP will do for the transistor, just make sure you are aware of the pinout. An automotive relay would be a OK to use.
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Do I need to earth the case if I use a wall wart?
If I can use any old PNP transistor, is the 0.65V switching determined by the circuit around it, then? Do all relays have the same pin-out? What type of current and voltage ratings are important? Coil current, coil voltage, contact rating, control off/on voltage? Ugh.
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Quote:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=BC327GOS-ND Will this work for the relay, or is it overkill? http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=255-2387-ND This one's rated higher, but is cheaper for some reason. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...l&name=Z215-ND
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet |
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#5 | ||||||
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diyAudio Member
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Contact rating is important. Voltage rating should be AC and greater than or equal to the mains voltage. Current rating should be greater than or equal to the current you are switching and should be given for inductive load. The current depends on the transformer you use, but Mr. Elliott's recommendation to use 10 A or higher will be okay for the vast majority of audio amplifiers. All other values should be of no concern for this application. Quote:
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If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Thanks, you're the best!
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: colorado
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Never had any problems with Omrons. Haven't
tried the Panasonics yet. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Does the polarity/direction of current through the relay coil matter?
Also, I'm still not sure about what the earth symbols mean here: http://sound.westhost.com/p39-fig2.gif. If one takes mains into the chassis, then I could see needing to earth it and then you have your earth, but if I use a wall-wart I won't have that.
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet |
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#9 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#10 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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I built the ESP soft start on an earlier project and it works fine. It is a bit complex and the need (or preference) for a auxiliary supply to run it is a downer.
Below is something simpler - it runs off the main power supply and uses a thermistor as the inrush current limiter (safer than the power resistors). There is a 1 second delay before the relay closes, bypassing the thermistor. |
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