That is right. My "BBC" dip happens unintentionally as it is a narrow band 2dB dip due to baffle effect on axis only. I have a 70cm radius large round over. From multiple angle measurements the baffle effects are reduced to nearly nothing other than that small dip. I bet it sounds a lot smoother than most speakers out there. It was because I worried about the severe baffle effects that I chose the U-frame open back format (also targeting much smoother power response) to enable a smooth baffle response. The price to pay is at mid range the ballooning is more severe than a straight opan baffle. That is why it takes a few opamps in the mid range to correct the response. From my simulations based on real measured response, the filter will make the frequency response nearly ruler flat, much flatter than the Orion or the NaO.
I don't have the knowledge to do discrete circuits for filters. Many people say that it is not worth of the efforts given opamps sound so excellent. I believe so, provided that I can have one single ccs-shunt for each opamp installed right at the opamp, but that is never practical in reality.
O.K. guys, I am heading to Jaycar to buy 4 heatsinks for v2, and to buy milk and bread for next week. Chat to you later.
I've been slightly sidetracked in testing my 15V V1's on my B32, but hope to remedy this shortly.
The discussion above has been quite interesting, and a good way to pass the time.
One question that I have is how are people deriving the DC to feed into the sss? I'm using a basic rectifier plus filter cap, but I'm interested in what other people are using. CRC or Pi filter networks? I think it would be interesting to know.
The discussion above has been quite interesting, and a good way to pass the time.
One question that I have is how are people deriving the DC to feed into the sss? I'm using a basic rectifier plus filter cap, but I'm interested in what other people are using. CRC or Pi filter networks? I think it would be interesting to know.
Evening.
I built up a set of Salas Simplistic Shunts V1 (SSS) at +/- 15V to power the VA stage of my B32S DAC. This was after the very good results I experienced using the SSSv1 on the B32S Vd.
The 15v shunts were built up using a string of 8 leds, with Rubycon ZLH as the Vref bypass, and Panny FM 470uF on the output. 10R resistor for setting the -ve shunt current, and 5R for the +ve. Before serious listening, I had them both under load for just over a week.
The immediate difference I found was that the shunts again brought much more body to the music, compared to the basic LM317/337 regs. The difference over the plain LM reg is considerable. With the SSS, the music has more life and colour to it, with more body. The LM sounds quite thin and forced compared.
I did compare the SSS against a well regarded commercial shunt supplying the VA section, and found that the commercial one was better. However, there is the price differential to consider.
What I would say is that I'll be very happy listening to my B32S with the SSS, whilst carry on with other projects andalso save up for the commercial regs. I would not be happy if I had to go back to the LM regs!
I built up a set of Salas Simplistic Shunts V1 (SSS) at +/- 15V to power the VA stage of my B32S DAC. This was after the very good results I experienced using the SSSv1 on the B32S Vd.
The 15v shunts were built up using a string of 8 leds, with Rubycon ZLH as the Vref bypass, and Panny FM 470uF on the output. 10R resistor for setting the -ve shunt current, and 5R for the +ve. Before serious listening, I had them both under load for just over a week.
The immediate difference I found was that the shunts again brought much more body to the music, compared to the basic LM317/337 regs. The difference over the plain LM reg is considerable. With the SSS, the music has more life and colour to it, with more body. The LM sounds quite thin and forced compared.
I did compare the SSS against a well regarded commercial shunt supplying the VA section, and found that the commercial one was better. However, there is the price differential to consider.
What I would say is that I'll be very happy listening to my B32S with the SSS, whilst carry on with other projects andalso save up for the commercial regs. I would not be happy if I had to go back to the LM regs!
Good. Congratulations for your builds. You can very easily go 1.1 with the V1 and it is a worthwhile improvement. I recommend you to try the Q7 buffer. Then you may meet your goals. With Iko's V2 (OK, takes new build right from the start) I think that any shunt will get a run. I am thinking to make a new 1.2 at a point but takes time because I get to listen to all tries with the phono which is the most sensitive due to low psrr and diminutive signal to noise. But I will see in to it with my new low MC one to make.
Me I don't want to know how much money you saved or which is the commercial one, bcs B32s is a popular product, has a TP Placid shunt offering to suit, there are other offered & used also, and all the guys are members. It will not be elegant. Especially against V2 if you make.
I just wanted to say that I asked which regulator that was because of my curiosity, that's all. I make absolutely no claim about v2. Whoever builds it can draw their own conclusions.
Now, on a different subject. To add or not to add a capacitor multiplier before the shunt regulator? What say you people? My simulations are showing a significant increase in psrr, but haven't had a chance to test it in reality yet. Has any of you done yet?
Now, on a different subject. To add or not to add a capacitor multiplier before the shunt regulator? What say you people? My simulations are showing a significant increase in psrr, but haven't had a chance to test it in reality yet. Has any of you done yet?
Me I was talking about me, I did not want to hinder anybody naturally asking.
Of course no claims from you nor me. Its just my opinion that the higher the versions the less elegant it would be for members doing comparisons with known kits etc. Naturally the margins close, and then subjective stuff can create bad influence, when a product is a much different thing. It is steady and has support and effort. Someone can change an output cap in even basic V1 and say tomorrow that it is finally better and don't buy that kit, blah blah. Gross. I don't want that in the DIY shunt threads.
Of course no claims from you nor me. Its just my opinion that the higher the versions the less elegant it would be for members doing comparisons with known kits etc. Naturally the margins close, and then subjective stuff can create bad influence, when a product is a much different thing. It is steady and has support and effort. Someone can change an output cap in even basic V1 and say tomorrow that it is finally better and don't buy that kit, blah blah. Gross. I don't want that in the DIY shunt threads.
This has been done over at pinkfishmedia.net on the walt jung reg with excellent results, but originally I think they used LM317 as the pre regulator. So it wouldnt be hard to beat that.
I am not sure your design needs it, but it is worth a try.
I think what I would do for the raw supply before the shunt reg would be a crc or clc with with rubycon ZL or panasonic FC, or Elna SIlmic RFS, and then put a 100uF polypropylene motor run cap right before the shunt regulator with very short thick wires (or preferably mounted on the board)
I am not sure your design needs it, but it is worth a try.
I think what I would do for the raw supply before the shunt reg would be a crc or clc with with rubycon ZL or panasonic FC, or Elna SIlmic RFS, and then put a 100uF polypropylene motor run cap right before the shunt regulator with very short thick wires (or preferably mounted on the board)
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Hi guys,
I'd prefer not to mention the names for the reasons that Salas mentions. I'm sure if you look hard enough you'll find the info
Also, it'd be good to keep this thread on the topic of the SSS, rather than how other shunts sound, even though I brought it up!
What I will say though is that the SSS is very good, especially for the cost and how easy it is to build. And also if you disregard those facts!
I'll certainly be looking in to v1.1 and most probably v2.0 just a matter of time, or the lack of.
I'd prefer not to mention the names for the reasons that Salas mentions. I'm sure if you look hard enough you'll find the info
Also, it'd be good to keep this thread on the topic of the SSS, rather than how other shunts sound, even though I brought it up!
What I will say though is that the SSS is very good, especially for the cost and how easy it is to build. And also if you disregard those facts!
I'll certainly be looking in to v1.1 and most probably v2.0 just a matter of time, or the lack of.
If you allow me to interfere (for the benefit of all) you suggest to:
A. preregulate the regulator. As a result its working has less substraction from the PS so it can work solely on the load;
B. for the same reason, present the reg a high quality PS bypass, shunting cable inductance.
I did some MHz CRC filtering for common mode noise. My situation is different to most of you as my mains is balanced to ground. I don't know about your results but my 52dB phono amp is working very much noise free.
Salas /Iko you're having fun with big boys in blowtourch thread....
well done
as here all have tt look http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/13372-diy-schroeder-tonearm-7.html#post1967051
a food for Salas shunt Tonearm
well done
as here all have tt look http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/13372-diy-schroeder-tonearm-7.html#post1967051
a food for Salas shunt Tonearm
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Welcome to the thread kt. It's never too late
There are four versions that have been built and tried. v1 is the original salas regulator, I've posted curves for zout in the first posts of this thread. I would say that's the only version that's been tried and true, in the sense that many people have built it and used it for some time. salas has a new version out, v1.1, which features extended zout (wider bandwidth).
Then there is v1.5 and v2, which I've been trying to get lower zout and wider bandwidth. I've tested them in reality, and possibly another two people have. The latest v2 and curves you can find following the link in my signature.
There are four versions that have been built and tried. v1 is the original salas regulator, I've posted curves for zout in the first posts of this thread. I would say that's the only version that's been tried and true, in the sense that many people have built it and used it for some time. salas has a new version out, v1.1, which features extended zout (wider bandwidth).
Then there is v1.5 and v2, which I've been trying to get lower zout and wider bandwidth. I've tested them in reality, and possibly another two people have. The latest v2 and curves you can find following the link in my signature.
Dont use your best & expensive caps on PreRegulator. You will not eliminate HF crud or spikes with expensive 100 uF motor run cap (big cap, too much inductance).
Better to use capacitance multiplier combined with RC filter (1st or 2nd order) as PreRegulator before shunt reg.
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