The simplistic Salas low voltage shunt regulator - Page 63

Tham · 22nd June 2009, 06:41 AM

Hi Iko,

Just used generic parts that I can get locally. Smoothing cap is a 10,000uF 50V Nippon Chemicon KMG. Still burning in but seemed to have a more full body sound compared to v1 which has 8,000uF of Rubycon YXA smoothing that could have contributed to the difference in sound heard.

Powering a Monica 3 DAC that was fed from a Shigaclone, I must say it is the best digital sound I heard in my system so far.

Salas · 22nd June 2009, 09:42 AM

Different smoothing capacitors is a parameter that can play a subjective role indeed. When it will burn in, please make a comparison with same filter cap and let us know. Its interesting, because its a DAC and will be a good indication to know if the extra work towards wider bandwidth pays. So to establish a V2.

Tham · 22nd June 2009, 01:55 PM

Planning to remove all filter caps from my v1 built and fix another 10,000uF NC KMG cap that I have. Will compare later when properly burn in.

Salas · 22nd June 2009, 02:05 PM

Thanks.

nicoch58 · 22nd June 2009, 06:48 PM

PANIC !!!!

I power on the amp , the driver trafo buz like hell , on 2 speakers too!

the shunt led are all on , input V are lower on 50v (56)k I misure the four shunt out rails and are ok but the trafo start too hot like burn....

power stage rail and trafo ok

whats up!!!

Salas · 22nd June 2009, 06:58 PM

Something draws too much current? If its in the shunts, just check the voltage drop on each R1. Vdrop/R1=Iccs. If all are normal (around 200mA) then look elsewhere.

nicoch58 · 22nd June 2009, 07:16 PM

I power on for only some second....
V on r1(15ohm) ,tre are 1,1v one is 1,3v near 100ma as in the past

??

Salas · 22nd June 2009, 07:23 PM

Your Vin got down from 56 to 50V. Your trafo buzzes. Somewhere there is strong current being drawn. Something wrong before the shunts on the rectifiers maybe?

ikoflexer · 22nd June 2009, 07:47 PM

Insert a 1/2A fuse between trafo secondary and rectifier, if still ok, in the primary. Do not forget to let the filter caps discharge or discharge them with an appropriate resistor. salas is 100% right, you got a short somewhere. What's the voltage out of the shunt for that brief period when you turn it on?

Edit: it could be the trafo as well. I'd disconnect its secondary from the rectifier diodes/bridge and plug it in alone, measure the AC in the secondary. If OK, connect only the rectifier and measure the DC on +/- but don't have any caps connected. If OK, connect the caps next, measure again. Of course, do plug it out and make sure all voltage is gone when making changes.

nicoch58 · 22nd June 2009, 07:52 PM

I thinks so...
fak***g trafo ?

franky need surgery

Ps the psu are under ...

22nd June 2009, 06:48 PM	#625
nicoch58 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	PANIC !!!! I power on the amp , the driver trafo buz like hell , on 2 speakers too! the shunt led are all on , input V are lower on 50v (56)k I misure the four shunt out rails and are ok but the trafo start too hot like burn.... power stage rail and trafo ok whats up!!! __________________ Sic58

22nd June 2009, 07:16 PM	#627
nicoch58 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	I power on for only some second.... V on r1(15ohm) ,tre are 1,1v one is 1,3v near 100ma as in the past ?? __________________ Sic58

22nd June 2009, 07:52 PM	#630
nicoch58 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	I thinks so... fak***g trafo ? franky need surgery Ps the psu are under ... __________________ Sic58

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22nd June 2009, 06:41 AM	#621
Tham diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2006	Hi Iko, Just used generic parts that I can get locally. Smoothing cap is a 10,000uF 50V Nippon Chemicon KMG. Still burning in but seemed to have a more full body sound compared to v1 which has 8,000uF of Rubycon YXA smoothing that could have contributed to the difference in sound heard. Powering a Monica 3 DAC that was fed from a Shigaclone, I must say it is the best digital sound I heard in my system so far.

22nd June 2009, 09:42 AM	#622
Salas diyAudio Chief Moderator Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Athens-Greece	Different smoothing capacitors is a parameter that can play a subjective role indeed. When it will burn in, please make a comparison with same filter cap and let us know. Its interesting, because its a DAC and will be a good indication to know if the extra work towards wider bandwidth pays. So to establish a V2.

22nd June 2009, 01:55 PM	#623
Tham diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2006	Planning to remove all filter caps from my v1 built and fix another 10,000uF NC KMG cap that I have. Will compare later when properly burn in.

22nd June 2009, 02:05 PM	#624
Salas diyAudio Chief Moderator Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Athens-Greece	Thanks.

22nd June 2009, 06:58 PM	#626
Salas diyAudio Chief Moderator Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Athens-Greece	Something draws too much current? If its in the shunts, just check the voltage drop on each R1. Vdrop/R1=Iccs. If all are normal (around 200mA) then look elsewhere.

22nd June 2009, 07:23 PM	#628
Salas diyAudio Chief Moderator Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Athens-Greece	Your Vin got down from 56 to 50V. Your trafo buzzes. Somewhere there is strong current being drawn. Something wrong before the shunts on the rectifiers maybe?

22nd June 2009, 07:47 PM	#629
ikoflexer diyAudio Moderator Join Date: May 2008 Location: Toronto	Insert a 1/2A fuse between trafo secondary and rectifier, if still ok, in the primary. Do not forget to let the filter caps discharge or discharge them with an appropriate resistor. salas is 100% right, you got a short somewhere. What's the voltage out of the shunt for that brief period when you turn it on? Edit: it could be the trafo as well. I'd disconnect its secondary from the rectifier diodes/bridge and plug it in alone, measure the AC in the secondary. If OK, connect only the rectifier and measure the DC on +/- but don't have any caps connected. If OK, connect the caps next, measure again. Of course, do plug it out and make sure all voltage is gone when making changes.

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