120V DC Lead battery desulfator! Lightbulb and Bridge Rectifier! - Page 11 - diyAudio
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Old 16th October 2011, 12:32 AM   #101
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hello good day to all,
is it ok to use larger diode,say 20amp bridge diode?
did the caps or light bulb set the ckt ampere?so small or big diode can be used?
thanks,any project picture,.....
 
Old 16th October 2011, 01:12 AM   #102
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[QUOTE=EWorkshop1708;1816926]True, very true.

It's obvious it has a potential for danger, which is why I never posted any warning.

um wat?
 
Old 16th October 2011, 01:52 PM   #103
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ok, no response
i find this ckt useful ''potential danger''?
of course the potential is there,but most of the guys here are aware of the two dangers,gassing (hydrogen) NO OPEN flame ha,and the mains the ckt is direct plug to wall outlet.
 
Old 16th October 2011, 04:58 PM   #104
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This is such a strange topic to be thriving for 3 years at an audio board. . .
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Old 16th October 2011, 05:19 PM   #105
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I posted quickly, but then I had to think about it for a sec; It is a fairly sensible statement, but not strictly sensible.

The "set of all things which have the property of having the potential for danger" is an illegitimate totality. Thus, nothing can be said about that totality such as; this example is a member.

I really hate set theory. I'll shutup now.

I'm glad this is here. Because you can use lead acid batteries as power supplies for audio gear however they are expensive...
 
Old 17th October 2011, 02:30 PM   #106
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Dangerous? Sure! But so is a paper clip in the hands of a 5yr old. I know cuz I stuck one in the wall outlet as a kid! Ha-. However, in the spirit of minimalizing the danger I potted my connections and bridge rectifier in an old spray can top plus hot glue. I use a sealed light socket, and fully insulated alligator clamps. All this sets at the rear of the bench, I plug it in LAST and even made a sign; PLUG FIRST! It's actually quite effective at forcing this good habit. To date- I have sucessfully restored a small lead acid battery for my fourwheeler (I say sucessfully- it behaves as a "good" battery)- now going for broke- setting it up on a deep cycle marine battery (very large). I expect this one to take perhaps 5-6 weeks. We'll see.
 
Old 17th October 2011, 09:20 PM   #107
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I still prefer the use of a large cap instead of a lightbulb. Seems to work just as well and it doesn't look like such a silly and fragile contraption.

I was thinking of making an enclosed unit with a small isolation transformer and a selector switch to select different numbers of paralleled caps to make the charging current adjustable.
 
Old 17th October 2011, 10:01 PM   #108
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Now you got me curious. I LIKE the capacitor idea- what farad/voltage/type? Tantalum? * I decidedly do NOT like the bright light on all the time. Would a coil work just as well?
 
Old 17th October 2011, 10:49 PM   #109
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You need a high voltage cap like a >400V motor start/run capacitor. I think the one I used was something like ~7uF and provided a few hundred mA of current when charging. The higher the capacitance the higher the current flow.

I was just looking at a nice film 450V 8uF cap on e*ay and it was only $6 shipped.
 
Old 16th January 2012, 03:20 PM   #110
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As its winter and the cars we all love are dying with cold - I thought I would re-iterate this question.

My X Type Jaguar has started to fail to start on occasional mornings.

It has, what I think is its original battery - now 10 years old.

Sulphation (Sulfation for those that choose to misspell the Queens English), seems to be a function of leaving a battery discharged for a long period of time.

This is clearly not the case with a car that is used daily.

I'm lazy - well I am getting older. I tend to drive to work which is only 2 miles every day.

Doing that kind of running the battery eventually goes flat - not surprising.

Give it a good charge and its OK for another week.

Is there anything that I can do to give it a bit more life during the winter ?

I'm short of cash for a new battery until Easter.
 

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