Mounting snap-in caps

[454Casull]

Besides making a bespoke PCB for them, what's the best way to mount them in a case? I was thinking of something that would just keep them together and then wiring them up with stranded copper, but I'm not sure how well that'll work with the snap-in terminals.

Also, isn't it a bad idea to mount the caps with the safety vent upside down? Or worse, obstructed?

[Bakmeel]

Use some thermal glue to stick them in place together, or use any other kind of glue to your liking, provided that it does not contain plastic solvents.

You can use point-to-point wiring. Keep positive and negative wires close together (for example by twisting them) to reduce EMI. Keep an eye on the correct polarity.

The direction of the vent is not important. Do not obstruct it.

[AndrewT]

Hi,
use silicon window sealer to "glue" the top to the chassis and the side to each other. This gives a virtually vibration free assembly that can be hard wired across the terminals.
Bring in the feed from the rectifier at one end and take the feed to the amplifier from the opposite end.

[kbeist]

Originally Posted by Bakmeel

The direction of the vent is not important. Do not obstruct it.

FWIW

This specifically pertaines to Lytics with a vent. I came across a Vishay/Sprage, CD, or was it Nichi datasheet just last week. Cant' remember who's right now. I do believe the pdf mentioned the NegTerm to be orientated below the PosTerm if the cap is to be mounted horiz. And it also mentioned that it should never be directly obstructed. (ie. mounting the terminal side flush. If the cap is to be mounted using the terminals, a means of excape for the lytic should be observed.)

I might add as notation that I was looking for some replacement 30Kuf/50V Screw Term caps.

[mymindinside]

I used mounting clamps in a row (well two rows for my dual mono) and hard wired the connections with 2.5mm copper wire. The clamps provide a very solid mount for the caps.

EDIT: just saw that the OP posted over a year ago...
cheers,
mymindinside

[Variac]

I have been using perf board for some projects, the kind with no copper. I prefer that and find that it is less fussy than trying to use the copper pad type with the pads so close together.

Anyhow, amazingly, some things are very standardized in the electronics world, so the hole spacing (pitch) of the boards was the same as the legs of the snap in caps that I was using. I just need to slightly increase the size of the board holes with a drill and the caps snapped right in! Then I just wrapped wire around the legs under the board and soldered it, which gave me a connection and locked the caps in place.

In the same project I needed a small heatsink and had some about 1" ones with the two pins out the bottom which are usually stuck through holes designed into in the circuit board an soldered in place to copper pads surrounding the holes. Jan Didden showed me that you can just pull out the pins, again slightly increase the size of the perfboard holes, which again are spaced perfectly, and then use tiny sheet metal screws up from the bottom into the sinks