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Old 23rd February 2009, 01:46 PM   #21
wg_ski is offline wg_ski  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by pacificblue
A light bulb changes its resistance with the temperature. Use an adequate constant resistor for it.

What is the use of measuring the input current anyhow?
The light bulb test is the de-facto standard for checking power amps out for the first time - and to make sure you have the toriod(s) phased correctly! If you wanted to actually measure the input current a fixed resistor is better. But if you just want to know that it's "small" and be able to use your meter to measure output voltage at the same time the light bulb is a nice way to do it. If it comes ON, something is wrong. If it's completely dark, things are wired correctly and the output voltage you measure is correct. If it's glowing dim orange, mag currents may be a bit high and you need a few more primary turns.
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Old 23rd June 2011, 06:02 AM   #22
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It's an older thread, but I'm reviving it, just like the project. Due to life situations, haven't been able to do some of my projects, but I'm back to finish this one.

I finished wrapping the Toroid Transformer with the 2x 10AWG wire, it produces 25V x2. (25-0-25)

It's plenty powerful, I don't think it needs more wire, just to play I vaporized a few thin wires, PCB paths and Semiconductors on scrap PCB with ease, straight from the transformer! This thing is like a welder, and I can't wait to get the amp on it and see how much power! The DC Rails will use 2X 70,000uf 40V (50v surge) capacitors, should be about 35-36V rails. That should be good power to feed a few amplifier channels!

Toroids are great because of the ease of winding your own windings, I'm always looking for equipment that uses toroids.
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Old 25th June 2011, 12:40 AM   #23
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I'll keep you guys posted on the progress of the amp, now that I'm building it again.

Being that my secondaries are 25-26V depending on mains voltage, I'll have ~37V rails.

Conservatively, calculated, recalcalculated, I'm estimating 200W per channel @ 2 ohms (two channels, one left, one right 400W RMS total) and another 400W RMS for the 4 ohm subwoofer (two channels in BTL) so it should be 800W RMS for the system.

I'm putting the toroid, rectifiers, and 70mF filter capacitors inside the subwoofer box, and the amp and heatsinks on the back of the box. It will be a high powered brute mini system.
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Old 25th June 2011, 06:10 AM   #24
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I haven't read the whole thead yet ,but you should be using the tap on the primary that has the most turns,this will keep the transformer quiet.
And I am not sure,but,may give you better regulation as well.

jer
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Old 28th June 2011, 03:37 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geraldfryjr View Post
I haven't read the whole thead yet ,but you should be using the tap on the primary that has the most turns,this will keep the transformer quiet.
And I am not sure,but,may give you better regulation as well.

jer
Thanks. That's basically what I did. I didn't use the one with the most turns, but I used the next one over. It's quiet and I don't hear hum on that primary tap.

The Secondary is also done as well, and uses twin windings 36 Turn secondaries made of 10AWG THWN stranded. Gives me ~26VAC per winding.

*I'm also about to add another winding on the Toroid for ~12V to run a nice 12V Car Stereo (functions as Signal Source, Master Volume, CD Player, FM Receiver, etc) and also to run 12V fans.

The Transformer is a BEAST!

Thanks for all the input on this all of you folks, this has helped me get closer to building this thing.
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Last edited by EWorkshop1708; 28th June 2011 at 03:41 AM.
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Old 28th June 2011, 08:26 AM   #26
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Very Cool !!! I like power Toriods Because they can be customized so easily. jer
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