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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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I designed this boost converter with a UC3843 chip using all SMD parts. I based the current limiting section around the design found on this page, although i honestly don't totally understand it. http://dion.swamp.dk/carpower.html
If anyone is intersted, i would love to hear any input/suggestions about my design/if it will work. Thanks, Chris |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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or not
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#3 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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I am not able to help but hopefully someone will soon.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Actually, i redesigned it, built it and it works great. Im getting something like 90% efficiency for 13.8v in and 19.5v out
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: IASI
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Just a thought:
I would minimize the parasitic capacitance on MOSFET's drain (also applicable for diodes) by reducing the copper area. In this way the EMC behavior can be improved. I know that reducing copper area is contradictory if you think for power losses but the generated heat is spreading pretty well through PCB itself. Moreover, a massive groun plane will play a significant role for both EMC and cooling. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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cjk2-
Do you have a schematic? It's probably a variation of the many out there as this topology can't vary too much. Here is a 2-F DC-DC I did for one of my ham radio buddies a couple of years ago. It uses an SG3525 alternately switching two MTP75N06s at about 100kHz (50kHz per MOSFET). The basic topology is much like your '3843-driven one, except that both inductors are wound on the same toroid, bifilar. Output diode is MBR2545CT, putting out 19.5V at over 8A, when necessary. Whole thing gets only moderately warm.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Here is another angle.....
I used an old Dell AC-DC psu box (not sure of the number, PA-1, PA-2, etc.) as the enclosure, and even mounted the green LED in the same place as the original off-line board....
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Here is the schematic. I am also working on a UC3843-driven one. Have all the parts, but it might be a few weeks before I can scrape together a board.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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,.....and the '3843 schematic.....
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Sadly I never drew a schematic for it, I usually just do it in my head. My design is based on this one though. The current limiting system is all that I don't totally understand, and it seems to work well enough based on the prototype I built. Anyway, I have attached a full eagle PCB file for anyone interested. I went with a to-220 MOSFET and diode for better cooling. I intend to have a few of these boards professionally made soon.
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