H Pierre,
Haven't checked in for a wile, but here goes: When I did the RKV Car amp in 1991-1992, the DC-DC Converter board had thick traces for the 12V primary side. However, these were augmented by stripping the insulation off of #18 magnet wire, and incorporating them into the trace. The trick was this: After mounting the snap-mount electrolytics, bend some of the wire around the terminal jutting through the foil side of the board, before soldering the cap into place (and snipping off excess terminal stud). Carefully run the now-bare #18 Cu. wire along the high-current trace to its destination, and fasten it likewise at that end, too. When time comes for soldering it into place, ALOT of solder will be used, but it will then be "embedded", if you will onto the trace, thus enabling thepassage ofhigh currents without the voltage drop. If you go to AudioExpress' website, you might find a picture of it.
If done right, it looks nice, but if done sloppily, it can turn out to be a real mess, so proceed with caution.
Hope this helps,
Regards,
Steve
Haven't checked in for a wile, but here goes: When I did the RKV Car amp in 1991-1992, the DC-DC Converter board had thick traces for the 12V primary side. However, these were augmented by stripping the insulation off of #18 magnet wire, and incorporating them into the trace. The trick was this: After mounting the snap-mount electrolytics, bend some of the wire around the terminal jutting through the foil side of the board, before soldering the cap into place (and snipping off excess terminal stud). Carefully run the now-bare #18 Cu. wire along the high-current trace to its destination, and fasten it likewise at that end, too. When time comes for soldering it into place, ALOT of solder will be used, but it will then be "embedded", if you will onto the trace, thus enabling thepassage ofhigh currents without the voltage drop. If you go to AudioExpress' website, you might find a picture of it.
If done right, it looks nice, but if done sloppily, it can turn out to be a real mess, so proceed with caution.
Hope this helps,
Regards,
Steve
Hello,
We also recommend the trick of using some wires, such as the capacitor leads bent to the tracks, to reinforce high-current handling traces (12V connection to the transformer center tap, from primary ends to mosfets drains, and from mosfet sources to GND)
As for the input terminals, you can also use a kind of standoffs that are soldered to the PCB (with 4 or more pins) and have a screw on the top (all metal), I think you can find them at Keystone.
We also recommend the trick of using some wires, such as the capacitor leads bent to the tracks, to reinforce high-current handling traces (12V connection to the transformer center tap, from primary ends to mosfets drains, and from mosfet sources to GND)
As for the input terminals, you can also use a kind of standoffs that are soldered to the PCB (with 4 or more pins) and have a screw on the top (all metal), I think you can find them at Keystone.
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