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Old 30th January 2016, 02:42 AM   #11
Scottmoose is offline Scottmoose  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
The CFS size shown can be fitted with EL70, A10.2, A10.3, A10p with suitable vent adjustment, and can be made wider for greater volume to fit A10p and FF165wk.

Chris has the larger A10p version in his HT.
I thought they looked familiar. Cunning plan to use that semi-modular design.
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Old 30th January 2016, 11:40 AM   #12
sideways is offline sideways  Canada
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Dave...

How wide would they have to go for the FF165WK's?? Do you have a drawing made up??

Thanks!!
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Old 30th January 2016, 06:25 PM   #13
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Mark Audio Pluvia Seven Mar-Ken Sketches
25 cm

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Old 4th August 2016, 08:03 AM   #14
TheSeekerr is offline TheSeekerr  Australia
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Hi Dave - how do you think the millisize mMar-KenP7 would go on its side as a centre channel?

Looking for something to complement my original dCHR-Ken70 (the first pair, if I recall correctly!) in a small HT setup, and it looks like the Pluvia 7 gets me something similar without needing to route a rebate this time!
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Old 4th August 2016, 05:16 PM   #15
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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It should work fine… EL70 works well in milliSize so i expect P7 to be similar.

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Old 11th February 2017, 03:20 AM   #16
ZacharyP is offline ZacharyP  United States
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This might sound silly but I wanted to ask how do you create the slots in the fonkens? Asking before I complete the build.
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Old 12th February 2017, 12:22 AM   #17
chrisb is offline chrisb
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Which version?

If it's any of the designs with a group of tall/ skinny slots flanking the driver, there will be an internal panel on each side that forms the inside wall of the slots. The narrow width of those slots should be sized for port dividers to be cut from a standard thickness material - as I work in metric, I'll quote that those would likely be something like 9mm, 12mm, or on larger designs, even 15. Imperial measures would be (approx) 3/8, 1/2 or 5/8" .

I build the side panels as a sub-assembly - which including the spacers will be three layers.

- Secure two pieces of stock thicker than the three layers (2x4 stud works well for that) to the work surface in an L-shape to keep parts registered in place.
- Cut strips of material for the slot dividers the width of the spacing between the ports-(should be indicated on sketch)
Hint- if you dry fit the back panel to the rear registration guide, you can extend the port dividers to the back, the multiples of those strips will increase glue surface to the back panel - up to well over 1 sq in on some models, improve the integrity of that joint.

- Cut strips of scrap 3mm (1/8") MDF/ply as wide as the ports' height to serve as spacers for the glue up.
- Starting from one end, glue the divider blocks to the outside panel, then 1/8" spacer, block, space - etc. You can use a brad nailer/ stapler to speed that up a bit - but if panning to bevel the long front edges, be very careful - pins near the front edge can easily be in the path of the saw blade. I don't use pins, but rather use a blank panel, cauls, and clamps.
- don't rush - let the glue dry for at least a couple of hours before pulling clamps, but keep in registration blocks, along with the back panel.
- Apply the inside panel to the port dividers blocks, using a spacer between the inside edge and back panel still in registration block/ jig. As above, use a brad Pinner if you like, but still be careful with placement near front edge. Otherwise, clamp.
- I've only ever built bevel versions with side slots, so my next step is usually to make the first rough cut at the 45dg, - just make sure to cut the outside panel. No kidding - running near the end of a long day building a batch of 3 or 4 pairs of these, on one of the last panels to cut, I flipped it the wrong way on the saw- had to build one all new side wall.
" What did you learn in the shop today, Chris?"

So, now you're done with the ported side wall assemblies.

Last edited by chrisb; 12th February 2017 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 12th February 2017, 01:29 AM   #18
ZacharyP is offline ZacharyP  United States
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Thanks Chris!

Any chance there are pictures of how it all looks on the inside when it's finished? Either way, thanks a bunch.
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Old 12th February 2017, 06:34 PM   #19
chrisb is offline chrisb
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probably - either here or on work computer - I'll have to dig around
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Old 13th February 2017, 01:59 AM   #20
vinylkid58 is offline vinylkid58  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZacharyP View Post
Any chance there are pictures of how it all looks on the inside when it's finished?
Not sure if this will help, but here's a pic of my old Fonken build from 2006, based on Dave's original design for the FE127e. You can sort of see the vent spacers act as stops, and attachment points for the rear baffle.

jeff
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