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Old 4th March 2014, 03:49 AM   #1
ezas is offline ezas  United States
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Default ufonken build assembly suggestions

I have a uFonken flat-pak sitting here, waiting for a few things, but I'm trying to figure out the best glue-up sequence while I wait.

I can see a few ways of doing it but can't seem to find that one way that makes the most sense WRT when/how to fit the brace and close it up.

Any tips?
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Old 4th March 2014, 04:27 AM   #2
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Chris?

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Old 4th March 2014, 04:01 PM   #3
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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I thought at one time I forwarded a set of photos of mock assembly for one of these kits to Dave, but I'll try to replay in the theatre of my mind

always dangerous, that ( build enough of a range of enclosures and muscle memory takes over - it's a chore to actually think about how to describe it )


As I don't know how far you've proceeded, I'll start from the beginning. The micro is a small box, so even if you have more than all the clamps you need, one of the issues you'll encounter is having enough room to fit more than a few at each glue up step. Of course, if you're using a brad nailer, your waiting time between steps is significantly reduced.

There's no magic, "right" sequence, but I like to go as follows, checking for squareness at each step:
- top, back & bottom,
- port shelf, spacer blocks and front (port spacer blocks should run all the way to the back panel, and might finish slightly proud of the front panel - you can sand flush later)
- driver brace - while these are cut for a light contact on a dry fit assembly, you'll want to test fit and adjust during your build. Install the driver first- the front of brace should have a light interference fit - it's better to have a slight gap than be too tight, and if the latter, sand down the contact surface of the brace. If too loose, add a light shim of paperboard, or foam tape.
- remove driver and install brace slightly below driver's center
- use sanding block to ensure the layers comprising the bottom and port are even with front and back
- line with felt - this enclosure is way too tiny for internal access after fully assembled, so measure and mark boundaries of lining on second side and affix before attaching to enclosure

I don't think I've missed anything?
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Old 4th March 2014, 05:17 PM   #4
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Thanx Chris.

We haven't done a build sequence for the micros, but the milli is very similar, here is a mock assembly of one of those that might be helpful.

http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/mil...P-assembly.pdf

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Old 4th March 2014, 05:46 PM   #5
ezas is offline ezas  United States
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Good info thanks.

It's a different approach then what I was considering so I'm glad I asked.

Last edited by ezas; 4th March 2014 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 9th March 2014, 08:50 PM   #6
ezas is offline ezas  United States
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- remove driver and install brace slightly below driver's center
(I believe you, but I'll mention the plans show the brace centered)

Can you elaborate on this a little bit? How much is slightly? The width of the brace? 1/2 the width of the brace, maybe?

And from what you wrote it seems like any contact with the driver is enough contact between the brace and driver. No need to shoot for some 'perfect' amount of contact.

Last edited by ezas; 9th March 2014 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 9th March 2014, 10:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezas View Post
- remove driver and install brace slightly below driver's center
(I believe you, but I'll mention the plans show the brace centered)
In the millis & micros that sport a horizontal brace it can be centred on the driver as that places it well above the centre of the back.

In the boxes with a vertical brace, it is placed off-centre of the back. Since the drivers are centred on the front baffle, the holey brace ends up off-centre on the driver as well.

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Old 10th March 2014, 12:59 AM   #8
ezas is offline ezas  United States
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Well I guess I goofed that up. I moved the brace slightly off center but moved it toward the center of the box. But only by about 5mm so it's not making much of a difference as far as being centered. Some slavish attachment to symmetry I guess. And wanted that bit extra space for gluing in the lining.
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