So the question for me is.... would I do this to my Feastrex 5Dnf drivers?
Answer... A year ago... No... Today... YES! I now think all cones should have enAbleing built in when they are made.
So, Dave... Wanna enable a 5Dnf?
Exotica like the Feastrex are best done (at least the 1st pair) by Bud himself.
dave
Phil - I'll echo your impression of the Alpair 7 in FH3. Even without fiddling with any stuffing below the driver, these are quite a stunning combination.
While my long time favorite (and now discontinued) FE127E still has several advantages -sensitivity, weight or slam in the bottom end, and for some folks the famous Fostex forward presentation - the Alpair7 has far greater resolution of low level detail and textures.
Another great candidate for this enclosure is the TB W5-1161 - my first audition to this driver, and while the Alp7 edged it out in several areas, the lack of any treatment to the TBs, while the 7's had full EnAbl could certainly account for a lot. I can't wait for Dave to get around to polka-dotting this driver, and possibly trying in other enclosures.
While my long time favorite (and now discontinued) FE127E still has several advantages -sensitivity, weight or slam in the bottom end, and for some folks the famous Fostex forward presentation - the Alpair7 has far greater resolution of low level detail and textures.
Another great candidate for this enclosure is the TB W5-1161 - my first audition to this driver, and while the Alp7 edged it out in several areas, the lack of any treatment to the TBs, while the 7's had full EnAbl could certainly account for a lot. I can't wait for Dave to get around to polka-dotting this driver, and possibly trying in other enclosures.
Hi Phil,
I can treat your Feastrex driver if you like. But first, please tell me what it is about them that you think needs improvement? Where are they lacking and which model do you have? The round globe magnets or the Alnico tube, or "other". If you PM me we can work on details.
Bud
I can treat your Feastrex driver if you like. But first, please tell me what it is about them that you think needs improvement? Where are they lacking and which model do you have? The round globe magnets or the Alnico tube, or "other". If you PM me we can work on details.
Bud
Hi Bud...
I have lived with the Feastrex for 3 years. I have the one with the ball on the back. It's the 5Dnf.
The 5Dnf dors not like big scale stuff. Symphony stuff does not work. The frequency plots show the up 10 down 10 through out the bandwidth. Lets say NOT smooth. I don't know if EnAbling will help but it sure would not hurt since the plots are all over the place.
I have lived with the Feastrex for 3 years. I have the one with the ball on the back. It's the 5Dnf.
The 5Dnf dors not like big scale stuff. Symphony stuff does not work. The frequency plots show the up 10 down 10 through out the bandwidth. Lets say NOT smooth. I don't know if EnAbling will help but it sure would not hurt since the plots are all over the place.
FR plots that flop all over the place may not be an actual problem. Depends upon what is causing them. If they arise from time related events, due to loop back boundary layer steering of pressure waves as they are created we can do quite a lot to improve the performance. Are there any available CSD plots with phase tracings and not smoothed that I can have a look at? More to see just how much phase room we have with respect to the 1 kHz to 20 kHz phase relationship.
Bud
Bud
Additional inside padding flat paks
Dave, I got your envelope yesterday. Must of been sitting in Can post warehouse for a few weeks.
I finished assembling mine a few weeks back with some double layers of felt
and that worked excellent.
I am amazed at these speakers with the Alpair 7's. I haven't finished them yet so when I do I'll post some pix. They are so revealing that I have had to get my *** in gear to fix up some small buzzes and hum in my tube gear.
I should have done that long ago, but just lazy. The bass is amazing.
For now I put in no damping, and may just add a bit when I pull the drivers back out to finish the cabinet.
Anyway I am amazed, I heard the Frugal I's last year, that's when I emailed to see about flat paks and you mentioned the Mark 3 were in beta stage.
Anyway thanks for all your help with this. I have ordered some brass spikes and going to make up some small stands similar to Colin's.
I'll post some pix after that.
Dan
Dave, I got your envelope yesterday. Must of been sitting in Can post warehouse for a few weeks.
I finished assembling mine a few weeks back with some double layers of felt
and that worked excellent.
I am amazed at these speakers with the Alpair 7's. I haven't finished them yet so when I do I'll post some pix. They are so revealing that I have had to get my *** in gear to fix up some small buzzes and hum in my tube gear.
I should have done that long ago, but just lazy. The bass is amazing.
For now I put in no damping, and may just add a bit when I pull the drivers back out to finish the cabinet.
Anyway I am amazed, I heard the Frugal I's last year, that's when I emailed to see about flat paks and you mentioned the Mark 3 were in beta stage.
Anyway thanks for all your help with this. I have ordered some brass spikes and going to make up some small stands similar to Colin's.
I'll post some pix after that.
Dan
Dave and all I have a question about the plans
for the FH MK3.
Its about the choke point and measurements.
The plans call for the choke point to be 5 1/2" front the inside of the front baffle. But I am unclear as to the exact point of the measurement. The plans show the point directly across from the choke point. It looks like the measurement is perpendicular to the choke point and then the point across from it. The measurement is NOT referenced to the joint. Is this correct?
The other openings are referenced to the joints ie 2 3/4" and another 2 3/4"
the 5 1/2" opening is Not draw as the others are.
Granted the difference is small and may not matter...
Thanks
Phil
Hey I got a Army wool blanket a surplus store for 20 bucks. ebay.
for the FH MK3.
Its about the choke point and measurements.
The plans call for the choke point to be 5 1/2" front the inside of the front baffle. But I am unclear as to the exact point of the measurement. The plans show the point directly across from the choke point. It looks like the measurement is perpendicular to the choke point and then the point across from it. The measurement is NOT referenced to the joint. Is this correct?
The other openings are referenced to the joints ie 2 3/4" and another 2 3/4"
the 5 1/2" opening is Not draw as the others are.
Granted the difference is small and may not matter...
Thanks
Phil
Hey I got a Army wool blanket a surplus store for 20 bucks. ebay.
Banned
Joined 2002
edit your post to look like this :
save your self from spam
Caution
I want to tell you guys about an article in Fine Woodworking a few years ago.
They did a glue test.
The glue that tested the poorest were the foamie glues.
I too have found this to be the case. I will never use them. Good old Tight Bond was one of the best....
I just sayin...
You may not have the same results...
I'm just sayin...
I want to tell you guys about an article in Fine Woodworking a few years ago.
They did a glue test.
The glue that tested the poorest were the foamie glues.
I too have found this to be the case. I will never use them. Good old Tight Bond was one of the best....
I just sayin...
You may not have the same results...
I'm just sayin...
Dave,
Finally picked up my flat packs from the post office this am. Wonderful packaging! Here's the sad news: due to an upcoming move to California I won't be able to build them.
So if anyone in the US is interested in a flatpack with enabled EL70n2's PM me, they'll be up in the swap meet soon. Sigh. Next Round!
Finally picked up my flat packs from the post office this am. Wonderful packaging! Here's the sad news: due to an upcoming move to California I won't be able to build them.
So if anyone in the US is interested in a flatpack with enabled EL70n2's PM me, they'll be up in the swap meet soon. Sigh. Next Round!
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