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Old 3rd June 2011, 10:56 PM   #61
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I don't know anything about horn theory. Would it be difficult to calculate the size/shape/contour of a small pseudo front-horn like this bowl for a 4" driver like those recommended for the FH3? I've heard about the various flare contours... conical, exponential, hyperbolic, tractrix, etc., but that's as far as my knowledge goes.
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Old 3rd June 2011, 11:00 PM   #62
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In previous efforts to do a front horn sized appropriately, it was not very big.

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Old 5th June 2011, 01:51 AM   #63
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Now that the glue on the back & interior panel are dry and those 2 pieces are solid, time to add the top, baffle & bottom. Before the top goes on you may find it easier to install the piece of cotton felt on the divider 1st.
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File Type: jpg felt-beforeTop.jpg (57.8 KB, 1139 views)
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Old 5th June 2011, 01:56 AM   #64
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Top, baffle & bottom put into place (in that order). The baffle is the longest piece in the kit, and some of them may have a bit of a bow. Masking tape should be sufficient to pull everything into place and hold it till the glue drys. You don't need much pressure. (do not use packing tape, the glue on it sticks to the ply after the tape is removed, and is a bitch to get off)

If the baffle bows out at the middle a clamp may be helpful.

Don't forget to check with the square. Leave to dry.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg top1.jpg (46.6 KB, 1125 views)
File Type: jpg baffle1.jpg (33.3 KB, 1102 views)
File Type: jpg top-front.jpg (40.3 KB, 1046 views)
File Type: jpg tapeTop.jpg (55.3 KB, 1041 views)
File Type: jpg bottom-tape.jpg (49.6 KB, 340 views)
File Type: jpg letDry2.jpg (44.0 KB, 384 views)
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Old 5th June 2011, 02:20 AM   #65
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All the panels now in place, time for the damping.

All the felt pieces have been rough cut. Width will need checking, and you'll need to cut out the sides. I posted a full size template earlier in this thread, but you probably want to double chack against your install. Make sure that the sides are mirror images (if you forget it is easy enuff to peel off the black backing) The felt can be fixed in place with glue or hot melt. The black backing on the cotton felt makes this a cinch.

Back 1st, then the divider panel (if you haven't done it earlier). then one side. Now the fluff -- tease it very well. The sandwich bag of fluff should get to be a BIG pile once teased. Consult the damping plan.

(Note: the fluff we used to illustrate placement is not well teased and ot of a quality that makes it actually useable)

The pointy part of the line gets one of the 30g packages. You are trying to distribute equal amounts along the length. Since it is pointy at the bottom this means a decreasing density as you approach the fold.

For FE126 you should be good (there is an extra 40g of fluff if you need to fine tune)

For the Mark Audio drivers there is a 40g bag of fluff for the wider part of the line below the driver. This part tunes the amount of bass. If you want big fat rounded bass you can start with none. Using all of it will give a full halfd-pound per cubic foot. You may want to do something to keep the fluff here from drifting to the bottom of the cab. Door screen mesh, a couple long screws sticking out, a piece of low thread count cotton or other acoustically transparent material like double knit.

It is easier to start light and insert more thru the driver cutout than reach in and pull it out.

Now it is time to nstall the other felt side. Just float it ontop of the fluff, making sure it is clear of any of the gluing surfaces. After the other side is solid you can reach in and mke sure it is solid against the side. A couple spots of glue should do to hold it in place.

Tweaking of damping fluff can be done thru the driver hole, add or subtract from the back top or under the driver. Low density amounts can be placed right behind the driver.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg felt-top-back.jpg (58.8 KB, 396 views)
File Type: jpg felt-side.jpg (51.2 KB, 244 views)
File Type: jpg felt-in.jpg (69.2 KB, 259 views)
File Type: jpg fluff1.jpg (36.2 KB, 301 views)
File Type: jpg fluff2.jpg (34.2 KB, 343 views)
File Type: jpg fluff3.jpg (49.2 KB, 374 views)
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Old 5th June 2011, 02:27 AM   #66
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The other side.

It should drop right into place with the internal bits tight up against the dadoes on the side.

Some clams are useful here (use some sort of clamping aid to distribute the force and protect the sides -- we used 2x4s in the picture) Alternately, masking tape and the big pile of weights, books, 4 litre plastic milk bottles full of water.

Chris: comments, corrections, suggestions?

Did i mention you want to use yellow carpenter's glue?

next turorial post >
Attached Images
File Type: jpg side1.jpg (32.0 KB, 395 views)
File Type: jpg side2.jpg (44.3 KB, 350 views)
File Type: jpg side3.jpg (53.0 KB, 362 views)
File Type: jpg side4.jpg (26.9 KB, 337 views)
File Type: jpg side5.jpg (31.5 KB, 344 views)
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Old 5th June 2011, 03:11 AM   #67
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I think you're missing one pic of the dampening material put on the last side panel up near the driver before gluing it up. It looks like it's L or U shaped on the side facing up?
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Old 5th June 2011, 03:18 AM   #68
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Yes, there is no picture of that, it is just in the text. I could probably photoshop it in

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Old 5th June 2011, 03:19 AM   #69
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Can someone comment on, or point me to the thread/post where people talk about how the FH3 sounds?... say compared to the Ed Horn or the FH1/FH2? I've had both of these, as well as the Austin A126, so I know how they sound.

Last edited by gnat_leader; 5th June 2011 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 5th June 2011, 08:18 AM   #70
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Chris's comments would include

Some clamps or weights during the first assembly stage - i.e. before damping padding - ( or even braid nails), wouldn't hurt

White glue ( Weldbond, etc) is great for attaching the Ultra touch insulation, but I'd recommend yellow carpenter's or polyurethane (Gorilla, etc) for the panels

Note that moisture cured polyurethane glues requires substantially longer curing time, and can definitely swell exterior panels out of alignment- so clamping is required - and it will stain, so if your finishing plans are for clear coat, I'd suggest yellow glue and masking/pre-finishing of interior faces of side panels before glue up

/end tutorial
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