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Old 31st January 2012, 07:48 PM   #231
steve13 is offline steve13  France
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Labbe View Post
Thanks for the quick response.
Ill see what i can find out.
Hi

Any news on european mainland supply?

thanks
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Old 21st February 2012, 08:28 AM   #232
skunark is offline skunark  United States
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Are these still available in the US?
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Old 21st February 2012, 09:24 AM   #233
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Originally Posted by steve13 View Post
Any news on european mainland supply?
Talk to Rudy at Rumoh

And they are available across the channel from Colin <aka Toppsy>

dave
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Old 21st February 2012, 09:25 AM   #234
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Originally Posted by skunark View Post
Are these still available in the US?
I ship most of ours into the US. No other North American suppliers at this time.

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Old 26th February 2012, 06:08 PM   #235
pchw is offline pchw  United States
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Got reconnected back and bought the flat pak from Bill (See post #158) yesterday and spent the day to read through all the related posts again.

This is my first speaker build, so please bear with me for silly questions:

1. the back board and the divider board are a little too tight to go in the groove of the side board. A few posts suggested to sand down a little, I supposed it is to sand the board to fit, not the wall of the groove.
2. in post #45, Chris said:
Quote:
BB takes a clear top coat ( lacquer / polyurethane / shellac / natural oil ) quite nicely, but if planning on staining, a pre conditioning sealer would be recommended to avoid blotchiness.
I do plan to stain the cabinet, so what kind of pre conditioning sealer should I purchase?
3. I have 4 CSS FR125S that came with a lot purchase from another member some time ago. In the same post, Chris said Other than the unfortunate behavior when excursion limit is reached, they should work fine. Does anyone have any reference this excursion limit issue?

Can't wait to start the build, going out to buy more clamps, like the pro said, can never have too many :-)

Thanks!!
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Old 26th February 2012, 07:09 PM   #236
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1. the back board and the divider board are a little too tight to go in the groove of the side board. A few posts suggested to sand down a little, I supposed it is to sand the board to fit, not the wall of the groove.
Yes. A mallet and a block is sometimes all that is needed to make them fit.

Quote:
3. I have 4 CSS FR125S that came with a lot purchase from another member some time ago. In the same post, Chris said Other than the unfortunate behavior when excursion limit is reached, they should work fine. Does anyone have any reference this excursion limit issue?
Bill's kit came with EnABLed EL70 and the baffles were rebated for the same, i'd strongly recommend using those.

The FR125 motor is ver linear over almost all of its stroke. But it gives no warning that it has reached the limit, and when the coil strikes the back plate it makes a very disturbing noise. This is particularily bad with single ended amps (tube or SS, seemingly of an power), so we recommend PP amps and enclosures that provide some back pressure to provide a safety margin. 4.5litre aperiodic to 7 litre sealed or aperiodic.

In theory it will work in FH3 but you may find this specific issue a problem

dave
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Old 26th February 2012, 09:18 PM   #237
pchw is offline pchw  United States
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Thanks for the explanation, Dave. It was more like curiosity of what that means than anything else as I just have happen to have those FR125S around. I will build the MK-3 kit as is. As this hobby never ends once it starts, I can see my next project is enclosure for these FR125S, oh boy!!
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Old 27th February 2012, 12:07 AM   #238
pchw is offline pchw  United States
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Default One of top boards cut wrong?

Attached are 2 pictures of the top boards.
The one at the top of the 1st picture aligns to the baffle, the back, and the sides, but the one at the bottom of the 1st picture doesn't, see the 2nd picture.

Is there any easy way to fix this cosmetic defect?

Thanks!!
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg DSC07118.JPG (133.3 KB, 353 views)
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Old 27th February 2012, 01:19 AM   #239
nrg2009 is offline nrg2009  United States
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pchw,

I just assembled a FH3. I'm not a woodworker and not very handy, and this also was my first project. I don't really know what the pictures show, so I can't help you, but I do have another piece of advice. When you assemble the backboard and divider I would recommend to use some masking tape and mock up the top, bottom and front. If you do that and the other side fits flat you did it right. If the divider is not all the way down, the other side will not close correctly.

My FH3 went together butter. The divider needed some talking too, it was tight. It's a very well fitting kit. If a piece didn't fit right, rotate the piece and you will see that it fits like a glove! Quality kit. I'm ready to stain it and hopefully by next weekend listen to it. I'm very happy with the kit.
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Old 27th February 2012, 02:10 AM   #240
pchw is offline pchw  United States
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Hi nrg2009,

The back board and the divider fit just fine. It was when I put all panels together (with clamps) to get a previw, I found one of the top boards didn't "flush" to the surface.

Look at the 2 boards in the 1st picture, both are taken from the side. You can see one of them is kind of like a parallelogram which is correct as it has the same angle of the front and the back panels. However, the second one is cut like a trapezoid; therefore, when one end is flushed to the front panel, the other side won't.

If you look at the second picture, you can see the bottom surface stuck out a little outside of the side board which isn't too bad, maybe 0.5mm-0.75mm; however, due the wrong angle, the side board is exposed more and more towards the top. You can see that at the bottom of the 2nd picture, kind of like a little white triangle. I don't think it will affect the sound, just doesn't look as good.

Cheers,
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