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#221 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Got my flatpack a number of weeks ago but have not yet even opened the pack due to scheduling. It includes a pair of Alpair 7.3
A couple of quick ones before I get to it: 1. I believe the flatpack has everything I need to assemble it except for glue? Anyways, my question is if there are items in there that I can replace with a higher grade (without breaking the bank of course) for better performance such as better damping material or connectors? 2. What's the max power handling of those Alpairs 7 if anyone knows off the top of your head? Thanks, UL |
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#222 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Wire, maybe, that is a minefield. Binding posts, but i fell you'd need to go to Eichmann cable pods or WBT Next Gens to make a serious impact. The flat-pak has been designed so that those can be swapped in any time down the road. You will also need a philips screwdriver, clamps (or clamp substitutes) and a right triangle (square). Damping material is fine. dave
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#223 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
Glue (yellow carpenter's for the wood and white "Weldbond" etc for the damping felt) and clamps (can't have too many) should be all you need The input terminals were selected not only for their price, but they sound quite decent - as Dave noted above, you'd probably have to spend more on the terminals than the cost of stock drivers to find something sounding better. Upgrade the wire if you like, but at power levels the Alpairs - and I think in most rooms your ears - will tolerate, much more than #18 over-kill. The nominal power rating on the Alpair 7 spec sheet says 20W (continuous), but I've played them as loud as I can stand in a 5.1 system (with bass management XO set to 110Hz) on a 70WPC receiver. We've yet to damage any of Mark's drivers from too much power - creasing the metal cones OTOH ... As this enclosure has a narrow / tall format, they can be a bit wobbly on carpeted floors, so sometime of outrigger supports are advisable, and to keep curious fingers from the shiny and very delicate cones, I'd suggest some type of grille as well.
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#224 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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What binding posts do you all include, if you don't mind me asking?
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#225 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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I'll snap some pictures. They are small cups -- 2" D cutout -- to keep the panel weaking hole as small as possible and still allow access (to fix or replace wire or binding posts). We wanted plastic nuts to keep metal mass down. Some would call them cheesy. But you have spend a fair amount of money to upgrade.
Standard 3/4" spacing for those using double banana plugs (like us) dave
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#226 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: East Coast, USA
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Finally finished up the outriggers on my build:
![]() ![]() Full write-up @ DIY Audio Electronics from Zynsonix.com: The Planet10 Frugel-Horn mk3 Backloaded Horn
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My DIY Electronics Blog: DIYAudioBlog.com |
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#227 |
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diyAudio Member
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I got my kit today. If anyone is still undecided on this kit, don't be: GET IT! It is a very well made, complete kit. I am very very happy. I will keep you posted on my build.
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#229 |
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diyAudio Member
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I forgot to mention the most important bit: my wife loves it! She loves the narrow shape with single driver.
I am undecided on how to finish the wood. The CNC operators took great care to ensure the visible sides are very nice wood with no flaws, i think i could just stain it and have it look majestic. Hands down a great purchase. Job well done to Dave and the team. |
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#230 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Yes, care is taken to book match the sides (and match the sides in a pair) and have any less nice stuff on the inside. Baffles are also pair matched.
Parts we aren't happy with the look of are set aside for our own builds as they get veneered. And any outright mistakes are recycled into the smaller boxes we make. dave
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