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Old 1st February 2011, 03:45 PM   #51
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How do you feel about their charts
I only pay a little attention to them. More of interest is T/S and impedance curve.

dave
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Old 4th February 2011, 11:01 AM   #52
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Dave,
I have my 10.2's and will be building some pensil's this weekend. The question i have for you or anybody else with experience concerns the wood. I knoe the recommendation is marine plywood, but i would really like to use hardwoods. I know the difficulty of working with hardwoods because i have built many pieces in my own home. Is there some sort of hybrid mixture that can be considered to defeat the shortcomings of hardwood and take advantage of strengths of plywood. I am not big into veneering. You end up paying as much for a sliver as you do for a board and they dont stain the same. What about 1/2" plywood backing hardwood? Any thoughts would be appreciated. This will be by listening setup while beginning experiments with Tysen setup.
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Old 4th February 2011, 04:50 PM   #53
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Dave,
I have my 10.2's and will be building some pensil's this weekend. The question i have for you or anybody else with experience concerns the wood. I knoe the recommendation is marine plywood, but i would really like to use hardwoods. I know the difficulty of working with hardwoods because i have built many pieces in my own home. Is there some sort of hybrid mixture that can be considered to defeat the shortcomings of hardwood and take advantage of strengths of plywood. I am not big into veneering. You end up paying as much for a sliver as you do for a board and they dont stain the same. What about 1/2" plywood backing hardwood? Any thoughts would be appreciated. This will be by listening setup while beginning experiments with Tysen setup.
If you're confident in your ability to fabricate a rigid enclosure with solid hardwoods that won't suffer from shrinkage/movement, etc - by all means.

of course now the question is to "tone" or not? - I'd dare say any musical instrument maker would regale you with stories of the different sounds of individual and combination of species


as for veneers, I cheat and use the paper backed stuff and iron-on yellow glue method - on the few occasions where I include solid wood trim details and finish with other than a natural clear lacquer/oil, either a pre-conditioner will even out the colour difference between the two materials, or I use alternate species to highlight as a feature
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Old 4th February 2011, 05:44 PM   #54
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I had panned on using Curly Maple or Cherry to build the speakers. I would use Quartersawn White Oak, for its stability, but I made my TV stand and bookshelves from this and want to introduce something new. Although you may tone the music with a particular species, the same can be said for plywood or MDF. From what little i have read on the forum, MDF is said to have a dead and somewhat bloomy sound, where plywood/wood has a brighter sound. I don't know, this being my first speaker. Any recommendations with impressions are greatly appreciated. Another point on tone from wood. Many of the instruments that are affected by toning from the wood tend to use wood that is much thinner. I would assume that the thicker the wood, the less of this problem there would be. Once again, this is an uninformed thought. I have seen ideas for fastening to allow for wood movement, that i think i can get to work. I will try to post a drawing showing the method being considered. I would appreciate a comment when posted, if possible. THanks!
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Old 4th February 2011, 07:33 PM   #55
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Here is a skimpy mockup of idea. It includes upper half of Pensil 10.2 as seen from the side. I was going to route a 3/8" deep channel 1/4" wide and 1/4" from top of the side panel. Within this route, i would do three more small routes with a chamfer bit that go all the way through the wood which would hold the head of the screw inserting into the top. This would give a tight fit, but still allow for movement. I would use some sort of thin gasket for good air seal. Same thing would be done down the sides and back. After tuning, the larger route would be filled with different species of wood ,which would cover the screws and fill gap as well as add a decorative touch. Just a thought. Seen it done in Fine Woodworking, I believe.
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