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| Planet 10 hifi Home of the Frugal-phile™ - Planet 10 HiFi |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Berlin
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Hi,
I've been looking at your plans for the Alpair10 Marken and I have two questions about the dimensions on this plan. 1. Quite many of the metric dimensions are to a tenth of a millimeter, are these straight conversions from inches or are these the actual dimensions? 2. Maybe I'm overlooking something, but when I add up the dimensions for the board that sits on the inner sides of the vents the space behind these, the thickness of the baffle and the rear wall I get a different length than the overall depth of the box in your plan (18+228.8+9.5+15=271.3 vs 272.3mm). Am I right to assume that the length of the vent and their distance to the rear wall are the ones I should stick to while the overall depth isn't that important? Anyway thanks for your designs, they look really cool, can't comment on the sound yet but hope to be able soon. Daniel |
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#2 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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1/ I design in a mix of units, and the plans that are up have not been rationalized to either metric or english units. Dimensions are actual from the drawing, but in many cases the length/size of an object is the result of a multiply or divide.
The for pay plans that (available sometime after, and revised for the Gen2 Alpair10) will have much more detailed plans included drawings rationalized for 15, 18mm, and 5/8, 3/4" materials. 16 & 17 mm plans will be done if someone requests them. For the current plans, rounded off to nearest mm or 1/16" is fine, just make sure the dimensions add up. I can rejig the current plans for 9mm vent spacers -- i understand this is a standard euro thickness? dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#3 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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2/ good catch on that. Turns out the front baffle was drawn at 19mm. An updated drawing has been uploaded with this fix and a few other tidies.
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...map-090810.pdf dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Berlin
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thanks for your answers.
About the ply thickness: The most common size you get in Germany in home improvement chains is 10mm, however I'm not sure if that is the actual thickness, because the advertised dimensions are sometimes a bit off (e.g.: a 20x30 wood profile is in fact 19x28). Could take a caliper next time I go to one of the stores if you are interested. Still I can get 9.5mm ply from a friend of mine who is a carpenter*, so 9.5mm is there. daniel *not sure if it's the right word, he is doing windows/doors or shop counters - not roofs |
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#5 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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carpenter would cover it... if you can, althou far from necessary, it is best if you can use a dissimilar material for the slot spacers. we get 3/8" = 9.5 mm MDF here, which we use, if we want something prettier (ie we aren't veneering) we will plane down some solid material.
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Berlin
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Good to know, I'll see what I can find.
Another question, does it matter if I change the dimensions of the spacer, as long as the port dimensions stay the same (e.g. instead of 2x30 and 2X57.5 i would use 2x28 and 2x59.5) this would make things easier, because I know can get solid wood in 10x28 and 10x60. This would minimize the amount of planing I have to do and I would not have to deal with MDF, really don't like to work with it cause I'm using mostly hand tools. |
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#7 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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That is OK... in the more advanced docs (so far only the Mar-Kel70) there are different port slot schemes drawn
dave
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