1/2 mil Mylar for ESLs - Page 2 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Planars & Exotics

Planars & Exotics ESL's, planars, and alternative technologies

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 3rd November 2001, 06:00 PM   #11
diyAudio Member
 
phishead8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Pasadena, CA
Hedlund,
How is this PET film pretreated for metalization? Does that mean that it is metalized? How wide is your roll of film? Yes, you are close enough in your conversion from metric to imperial measurements. 12um = 48 guage = .48 mils ~= 1/2 mil film.

What rig do you use to stretch your film? I've had difficulty with the stretch and tape method (see above). Are there any drawbacks to the heat-shrinking method other than overall evenness? Durability? Longevity? Because I feel that the heat-shrinking method is even enough, unless I'm proven otherwise.
Thank you very much for your input.
-Dan
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd November 2001, 06:55 PM   #12
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Alvesta, Sweden
No it's not metalized, but the surface doesn't seem to be perfectly smooth. Rifa use this film to make their metalized capacitors.
One of the rolls is 480 mm and the other 650 mm.


  Reply With Quote
Old 17th December 2001, 03:05 AM   #13
diyAudio Member
 
phishead8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Pasadena, CA
Well,
Due to time constraints I am forced to abandon my idea of finding the heat-shrinkable mylar that Barry sold me over the summer. Instead, I have plain ole' PET film, which is the generic version of DuPont's Mylar. I will swallow my pride and build a tensioning rig, but I'm not sure exactly how to do it.
Let me throw out this idea for a tensioning rig to see if anyone can point out any flaws or suggest anything. I plan on laying out the mylar and glueing some steel unistrut (big-boy "erector set" pieces that I have lying around) to two opposite edges. I will then drape the film over a rigid piece of metal. Then, I can add weight to both unistrut pieces (which are now hanging down on the sides) until I am satisfied with the tension of the film. Glueing on the stators will be a cinch. The tension will be the same for each panel, as the weight will not change between the construction.
An obvious problem with this is the tension is only in one direction, not both. But, I cannot see why this would be such a bad thing.
Anybody have other suggestions/comments for me? Please respond.
Thanks
-Dan
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wide Mylar ak_47_boy Planars & Exotics 1 30th August 2007 06:48 AM
So I got some 6um mylar bigwill Planars & Exotics 7 15th April 2007 11:34 PM
stretching Mylar for curved ESLs, How? MJ Dijkstra Planars & Exotics 4 7th June 2006 06:34 AM
Q: DuPont Mylar Film for ESLs... Rarkov Everything Else 34 23rd July 2003 11:30 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 10:01 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2