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Old 16th January 2007, 04:58 PM   #1
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Location: Wisconsin....what did you expect?
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Default Wire frames...is there an easier way?

I've been looking at wire frames for a pair of ESLs. Perforated metal is, after all, annoyingly expensive.

Instead of the normal methods, I was thinking of making a pair of board with a long row of nails partially hammered into them. The wire would be threaded up and down between the two like a loom, and would be made taut by pulling. I was thinking of using 25ga. magnet wire, as it's cheap and locally availible. (RadioShack sells it.)

At each end of the frames, a strip of copper would be placed. The wire loom would be lowered on to it, and while the wire is taut, a plumber's soldering iron would be used to solder all the wires down to the pieces of copper at the same time.

Once the wire on the loom is soldered to the frame, the excess on the top and bottom could be removed, resulting in a huge number of parallel wires without much hassle.

Is this a good idea, or no?
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Old 16th January 2007, 08:49 PM   #2
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I just won 40000ft off ebay for some ESL's. All said and done it cost me around $200US. Not bad at all.
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Old 18th January 2007, 04:45 PM   #3
Few is offline Few  United States
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Spasticteapot:
Have you looked at this approach? I think it looks like a simple way to achieve the desired tension. The text is in Dutch, but the photos are pretty self-explanatory. For more details, see this thread.

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Old 18th January 2007, 05:57 PM   #4
danielm is offline danielm  United States
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What's wrong with using aluminum window screen on plastic fluorescent "egg crate" grating? Acoustat style.
Simple, cheap.
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Old 18th January 2007, 06:32 PM   #5
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Default have you ever built up a screen panel?

I have and given the amount of work involved in pretensioning the screen (to keep it flat) and then gluing it down and keeping the holes open and free of adhesive I would not choose to do it again. Add to that the fact that the screen has no insulation and well yes it works but it is not at all easy or your best choice. Insulated wire stators are not hard to wire and if you use thin wire they are very easy to tension by hand. The wires can be encapsulated into place on an eggcrate grid by a variety of methods. These panels have uniform (factory tested) insulation and last a very long time. Just ask Jim Strickland how many field failures he had with the Acoustat. Regards Moray James.
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Old 18th January 2007, 08:08 PM   #6
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I tryed to use screen on a prototype. The dielectric of the paint on the screen is very poor. If you try to spray on enamel it just cloges the holes up. Glueing it to eggcrate is a nightmare. I also could not get the holes to run strait up/down, right/left. So its going to look not so grate also.
I suppose if you have lots of patence it is a cheap way to do it, you could get it right, but think you are already saving thousands by doing it yourself so why not splurge on your stators.
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Old 19th January 2007, 02:27 AM   #7
danielm is offline danielm  United States
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Default Re: have you ever built up a screen panel?

Quote:
Originally posted by moray james
I have and given the amount of work involved in pretensioning the screen (to keep it flat) and then gluing it down and keeping the holes open and free of adhesive I would not choose to do it again. Add to that the fact that the screen has no insulation and well yes it works but it is not at all easy or your best choice. Insulated wire stators are not hard to wire and if you use thin wire they are very easy to tension by hand. The wires can be encapsulated into place on an eggcrate grid by a variety of methods. These panels have uniform (factory tested) insulation and last a very long time. Just ask Jim Strickland how many field failures he had with the Acoustat. Regards Moray James.
No. I haven't built a window screen stator yet. To be honest, I haven't for reasons you state.
I had visions of "ironing" it onto the plastic grating. One can dream...

I've decided I'll use perf metal.
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Old 19th January 2007, 02:42 AM   #8
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Default Like the tailor press...

I experimented with applying the screen with an iron. I think that if you had a press with the appropriate size plate and proper heat control plus physical stops to insure that each screen would always press down the same depth into the louvre, you might have something but the screen still has no insulation. One fellow worked around the insulation by usint two parallel diaphragms with the resistive coating in between the diaphragms.
It is a good idea but with a whole pile of issues. Give it a crack if you like and see what you can come up with. Best regards Moray James.
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