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Old 9th January 2007, 04:58 PM   #11
badduh is offline badduh  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally posted by gvy
Calvin,

First I put the stator in a bow form (a little of course), Then I run the wires .
Once all the wires are run, I release the stator and it springs back, pulling the wires completely flat.
The stator stays a bit in the bowform, because of the tension of the wires.
I gently press it flat to my working table and fix it .
Now the wires are really flat against the crossbars and under tension.
If I do a test with a straight profile placed on the stator wires, I can see it really is a flat wire plate I have.

Then I take the glue pistol with the tec7 .
I go over one crossbar and all the wires.
The Tec 7 is in the beginning the same as silicone (used in bathrooms )
So with 1 fingertip I can wipe it easily flat over all the wires.
The Tec 7 stays between the wires and it fixes on the crossbar and the wires. On the other hand it is wiped off almost completely above the wires. Of course there stays always a little, but that gives no real problems.
After 24 hours, the tec7 hardens out to a hard rubber substance (unlike silicone wich stays very flexible)
Now the wires are fixed to the crossbars and to each other.
There is no real tec7 substance under or above the wire. It is mostly between the wires and so attached to the crossbar.

Hard to explain, but infact an easy handling.

After I have loosen the stator (after 24 hours), It only stays in a very little bowform.
That is no problem, because the second stator has the same but of course opposite.
So when the 2 are fixed together (later on , ones the mylar is in place), The complete construction is straight.

Greets

Geert

Could you discribe the glue formular that you use on the mylar?
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Old 9th January 2007, 05:16 PM   #12
gvy is offline gvy  Belgium
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Hi Badduh,

If you meen the glue formula for the coating?

It is VELPON Schoollijm (oplosmiddelvrij)
It is fully transparant and comes in a tube of100ml.
It is in fact a paperglue or hobbyglue.

I take 1 part VELPON, 3 parts water, some drops airbrushpaint (to color it) and I spray it with an airbrushpistol in several thin layers.

Geert
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Old 14th January 2007, 05:33 PM   #13
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I did this for my panels 2 1/4" thick mdf

had them cnc from a company close to my place so they are in 1 piece.
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Old 15th January 2007, 05:19 PM   #14
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
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Those look great, probably nicely resonance free being out of one piece... I think you can expect really good bass from a panel that wide...
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Old 16th January 2007, 09:01 PM   #15
badduh is offline badduh  Netherlands
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Gvy or V-bro. (or anybody elso how knows what trespa is )

Do you think i could use Trespa (sorry don't know the english word for it). I thinking of sawing strokes of trespa and glue them with epoxy together. (see picture1)

I don't want my frames to become to thick becouse i going to put them in a balfe where i also going to put the woofers in (see picture2)

pic1:
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Old 16th January 2007, 09:03 PM   #16
badduh is offline badduh  Netherlands
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pic2:
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Old 17th January 2007, 12:34 AM   #17
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
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I know some types of trespa use finishing containing metals, I would check out or test and measure the conductivity first...

Why is the OB (right?) around the woofer more narrow than around the esl in the second picture? If it is only aesthetical I would either reconsider it or place side panels and make a sort of 'U-shaped' baffle.... The lower freqs. will benefit a lot from this!






pssst strokes=strips btw...

Believe me you don't wanna end up with eight (or sixteen!) strokes...
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Old 17th January 2007, 09:33 AM   #18
badduh is offline badduh  Netherlands
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Thanks for your correction of the strokes thing, i wil use strips from now on
The shape of the bafle is pure aesthetical, i think it has a modern look this way, i know that when i put some panels on the side this wil be a good thing for the low freq, but i think that the speaker wil look bigger that way, and i like to keep it as small as posible. I'm going to biamp the speakers with an active crossover, so i could correct the low freq in the crossover.
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