Wire stator gluing method - Page 3

Atom666 · 10th January 2006, 12:38 AM

Interious

Sorry for the poor photographs, my camera is an older digital and not very good for closeup work.
The sliding end pieces have small horizontal pegs near the top the same diameter as the Kynar wirewrap .035" . There are 5 pegs /louver opening so 10 wires/louver square.Loop the wire around the pegs at each end then then tighten the screws on the sliding end piece to pull the wires tight.I had the jig built by the machine shop next to my office about 5 yrs ago in return for some computer work.Here is another picture with a white piece of paper in the background so you can see the pins.
I think I would cut up the plastic louver so that there would only be horizontal plastic squares about every 3".I would then glue a piece of PVC about 1/4" wide by .020 thick to this row of squares.That would give me something more substantial to attach the wires to.Plastic PVC glue might work for attaching the wires to the plastic strips.
Andrew

Atom666 · 10th January 2006, 12:38 AM

Here is another picture

Interious · 10th January 2006, 01:05 AM

Andrew--
I see, very clear. Have you succesfully built stators with this jig? How do you execute glue application? I like the idea of enlarging the openings and gluing a more substantial footing on for the glue interface.

Yes--I see it exactly, an excellent idea that never occured to me. I'm trying to think if 0.035" wire (20#) is stiff enough to span 3". The ductile copper seems to loose any tension induced in the wire. What do you think?

Dave
Are you able to retain spacing uniformity along the length of the stator with this method?

Atom666 · 10th January 2006, 01:29 AM

Dave
No, I haven't built a finished stator with the stretcher.After the first try at gluing the wire to the plastic frame I came to realize that the strecher works as I envisioned it would but there had to be a better way to glue the wires to the frame. So I put the whole thing on hold while I thought this out. I had plenty of other projects to keep me busy .I just started working on this recently again after I purchased the electronics c/w delay lines from an ESL63.
I think that the spacing would remain constant ,if not then maybe reducing the support to 2 " may work.The glue application would be a little easier with the wider supports a plastic type glue and a brush type applicator??
Andrew

Interious · 10th January 2006, 01:51 AM

Mmmm...Good question. I would probably use epoxy applied with a syringe and use a heat gun to partially liquify the glue, causing it to flow,
but I'm unsure of bond strength to PVC.

I've only used plexi or lexan for spacers (thinking or your supports) in the past, but the thickness tolerance is notoriously poor. Whether that is audible is a difference question.

The arrangement of you stator/diaphragm spacers will be a consideration.

I'm sure others will comment.
Dave

Interious · 13th January 2006, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by I_Forgot

If you have a vacuum pump you could borrow a technique from composite lay-up and vacuum bag the assembly to apply pressure while the epoxy hardens. A small diaphragm pump can easily pull about 20" Hg vacuum which translates to 10 lbs per sq inch over the entire surface. Model rocket and airplane guys often use vacuum food sealers for this job.

I_F

Excellent idea!

SY · 13th January 2006, 12:52 PM

Dave and all- there are adhesives specifically made for specific plastics. Once you've bought your frame or eggcrate, buy the adhesive specific to that material. Here in California, TAP Plastics and the always-reliable McMaster-Carr are good sources for those specialty materials.

Some examples:

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=21&

Interious · 13th January 2006, 01:14 PM

Thanks Sy--

Bazukaz · 10th April 2006, 12:36 PM

Hi,
After my experiments with steel sheet stators , i have found that it is very hard to paint a good and reliable insulation layer.Even powder coating+few layers of paint does not provide good enough insulation.
So i decided to build wire stators.I am planning to build frames from 15mm plywood.Also , i found some very cheap 0,5-1,0 mm^2 PVC insulated wire.My question is , at what distances the wires must be supported ?
Is 10 cm enough ?

Regards,
Lukas.

MJ Dijkstra · 10th April 2006, 01:56 PM

Roughly, anything between 7,5 and 15 cm will work fine. It is not that critical.
I personally prefer a rather close spacing of around 8 cm in case of flexible 'litze'wire because this type of wire tends to wrinkle a bit.

Cheers, Martin-Jan

13th January 2006, 12:52 PM	#27
SY diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Austin, TX Blog Entries: 1	Dave and all- there are adhesives specifically made for specific plastics. Once you've bought your frame or eggcrate, buy the adhesive specific to that material. Here in California, TAP Plastics and the always-reliable McMaster-Carr are good sources for those specialty materials. Some examples: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=21& __________________ “Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache

10th April 2006, 01:56 PM	#30
MJ Dijkstra diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utrecht	Roughly, anything between 7,5 and 15 cm will work fine. It is not that critical. I personally prefer a rather close spacing of around 8 cm in case of flexible 'litze'wire because this type of wire tends to wrinkle a bit. Cheers, Martin-Jan __________________ drs M.J. Dijkstra

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10th January 2006, 12:38 AM	#21
Atom666 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Toronto, Canada	Interious Sorry for the poor photographs, my camera is an older digital and not very good for closeup work. The sliding end pieces have small horizontal pegs near the top the same diameter as the Kynar wirewrap .035" . There are 5 pegs /louver opening so 10 wires/louver square.Loop the wire around the pegs at each end then then tighten the screws on the sliding end piece to pull the wires tight.I had the jig built by the machine shop next to my office about 5 yrs ago in return for some computer work.Here is another picture with a white piece of paper in the background so you can see the pins. I think I would cut up the plastic louver so that there would only be horizontal plastic squares about every 3".I would then glue a piece of PVC about 1/4" wide by .020 thick to this row of squares.That would give me something more substantial to attach the wires to.Plastic PVC glue might work for attaching the wires to the plastic strips. Andrew

10th January 2006, 01:05 AM	#23
Interious diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Chambersburg, PA	Andrew-- I see, very clear. Have you succesfully built stators with this jig? How do you execute glue application? I like the idea of enlarging the openings and gluing a more substantial footing on for the glue interface. Yes--I see it exactly, an excellent idea that never occured to me. I'm trying to think if 0.035" wire (20#) is stiff enough to span 3". The ductile copper seems to loose any tension induced in the wire. What do you think? Dave Are you able to retain spacing uniformity along the length of the stator with this method?

10th January 2006, 01:29 AM	#24
Atom666 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Toronto, Canada	Dave No, I haven't built a finished stator with the stretcher.After the first try at gluing the wire to the plastic frame I came to realize that the strecher works as I envisioned it would but there had to be a better way to glue the wires to the frame. So I put the whole thing on hold while I thought this out. I had plenty of other projects to keep me busy .I just started working on this recently again after I purchased the electronics c/w delay lines from an ESL63. I think that the spacing would remain constant ,if not then maybe reducing the support to 2 " may work.The glue application would be a little easier with the wider supports a plastic type glue and a brush type applicator?? Andrew

10th January 2006, 01:51 AM	#25
Interious diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Chambersburg, PA	Mmmm...Good question. I would probably use epoxy applied with a syringe and use a heat gun to partially liquify the glue, causing it to flow, but I'm unsure of bond strength to PVC. I've only used plexi or lexan for spacers (thinking or your supports) in the past, but the thickness tolerance is notoriously poor. Whether that is audible is a difference question. The arrangement of you stator/diaphragm spacers will be a consideration. I'm sure others will comment. Dave

13th January 2006, 01:14 PM	#28
Interious diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Chambersburg, PA	Thanks Sy--

10th April 2006, 12:36 PM	#29
Bazukaz diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Vilnius	Hi, After my experiments with steel sheet stators , i have found that it is very hard to paint a good and reliable insulation layer.Even powder coating+few layers of paint does not provide good enough insulation. So i decided to build wire stators.I am planning to build frames from 15mm plywood.Also , i found some very cheap 0,5-1,0 mm^2 PVC insulated wire.My question is , at what distances the wires must be supported ? Is 10 cm enough ? Regards, Lukas.

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