Wire stator gluing method - Page 3 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Planars & Exotics

Planars & Exotics ESL's, planars, and alternative technologies

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10th January 2006, 12:38 AM   #21
Atom666 is offline Atom666  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Atom666's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Toronto, Canada
Interious

Sorry for the poor photographs, my camera is an older digital and not very good for closeup work.
The sliding end pieces have small horizontal pegs near the top the same diameter as the Kynar wirewrap .035" . There are 5 pegs /louver opening so 10 wires/louver square.Loop the wire around the pegs at each end then then tighten the screws on the sliding end piece to pull the wires tight.I had the jig built by the machine shop next to my office about 5 yrs ago in return for some computer work.Here is another picture with a white piece of paper in the background so you can see the pins.
I think I would cut up the plastic louver so that there would only be horizontal plastic squares about every 3".I would then glue a piece of PVC about 1/4" wide by .020 thick to this row of squares.That would give me something more substantial to attach the wires to.Plastic PVC glue might work for attaching the wires to the plastic strips.
Andrew
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2006, 12:38 AM   #22
Atom666 is offline Atom666  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Atom666's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Toronto, Canada
Here is another picture
Attached Images
File Type: jpg esl wire streching frame (small)4 (small).jpg (47.7 KB, 771 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2006, 01:05 AM   #23
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Chambersburg, PA
Andrew--
I see, very clear. Have you succesfully built stators with this jig? How do you execute glue application? I like the idea of enlarging the openings and gluing a more substantial footing on for the glue interface.

Yes--I see it exactly, an excellent idea that never occured to me. I'm trying to think if 0.035" wire (20#) is stiff enough to span 3". The ductile copper seems to loose any tension induced in the wire. What do you think?

Dave
Are you able to retain spacing uniformity along the length of the stator with this method?
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2006, 01:29 AM   #24
Atom666 is offline Atom666  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Atom666's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Toronto, Canada
Dave
No, I haven't built a finished stator with the stretcher.After the first try at gluing the wire to the plastic frame I came to realize that the strecher works as I envisioned it would but there had to be a better way to glue the wires to the frame. So I put the whole thing on hold while I thought this out. I had plenty of other projects to keep me busy .I just started working on this recently again after I purchased the electronics c/w delay lines from an ESL63.
I think that the spacing would remain constant ,if not then maybe reducing the support to 2 " may work.The glue application would be a little easier with the wider supports a plastic type glue and a brush type applicator??
Andrew
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2006, 01:51 AM   #25
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Chambersburg, PA
Mmmm...Good question. I would probably use epoxy applied with a syringe and use a heat gun to partially liquify the glue, causing it to flow,
but I'm unsure of bond strength to PVC.

I've only used plexi or lexan for spacers (thinking or your supports) in the past, but the thickness tolerance is notoriously poor. Whether that is audible is a difference question.

The arrangement of you stator/diaphragm spacers will be a consideration.

I'm sure others will comment.
Dave
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2006, 12:39 PM   #26
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Chambersburg, PA
Quote:
Originally posted by I_Forgot


If you have a vacuum pump you could borrow a technique from composite lay-up and vacuum bag the assembly to apply pressure while the epoxy hardens. A small diaphragm pump can easily pull about 20" Hg vacuum which translates to 10 lbs per sq inch over the entire surface. Model rocket and airplane guys often use vacuum food sealers for this job.

I_F
Excellent idea!
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2006, 12:52 PM   #27
SY is offline SY  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
SY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chicagoland
Blog Entries: 1
Dave and all- there are adhesives specifically made for specific plastics. Once you've bought your frame or eggcrate, buy the adhesive specific to that material. Here in California, TAP Plastics and the always-reliable McMaster-Carr are good sources for those specialty materials.

Some examples:

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=21&
__________________
You might be screaming "No, no, no" and all they hear is "Who wants cake?" Let me tell you something: They all do. They all want cake.- Wilford Brimley
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2006, 01:14 PM   #28
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Chambersburg, PA
Thanks Sy--
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th April 2006, 12:36 PM   #29
Bazukaz is offline Bazukaz  Lithuania
diyAudio Member
 
Bazukaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Vilnius
Send a message via Skype™ to Bazukaz
Hi,
After my experiments with steel sheet stators , i have found that it is very hard to paint a good and reliable insulation layer.Even powder coating+few layers of paint does not provide good enough insulation.
So i decided to build wire stators.I am planning to build frames from 15mm plywood.Also , i found some very cheap 0,5-1,0 mm^2 PVC insulated wire.My question is , at what distances the wires must be supported ?
Is 10 cm enough ?


Regards,
Lukas.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th April 2006, 01:56 PM   #30
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Utrecht
Roughly, anything between 7,5 and 15 cm will work fine. It is not that critical.
I personally prefer a rather close spacing of around 8 cm in case of flexible 'litze'wire because this type of wire tends to wrinkle a bit.

Cheers, Martin-Jan
__________________
drs M.J. Dijkstra
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
wire stator design oublie Planars & Exotics 36 20th July 2010 03:01 PM
Wire Insulation for Wire stator Audio_idiot Planars & Exotics 6 25th May 2007 11:42 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 01:41 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2