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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I built stators out of aluminum window screening and plastic fluorescent light cover. I bonded the screen to the plastic by laying the screen where i wanted it, pressing a hot soldering iron at every junction of the plastic. This forces one or two strands in to the plastic which provides a very strong bond. I believe the screen makes a good material because of its very small hole size, and high number of wires. This shoudl yield a very uniform field strength. Also these materials are low cost and readily available.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Great idea! I've heard of this being done with solvent, but I'm hesitant to go that route. The soldering iron idea seems like a much safer way to accomplish the task.
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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beware of a hot soldering iron! it is also very tedious as you might imagine... It will also gum up your tip, but not so bad a little wiping, filing, or scraping cant fix things up.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Phoenix, Az.
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Breathing the smoke from the melting polystyrene is at least as hazardous as the fumes from a solvent. Do this sort of work outdoors and use a respirator mask.
Do you put the screen under any tension before you start attaching it to the plastic? Does the screen have a flat surface when you're done? Thanks, TD |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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the screen doesnt need to be under tention, the spacing is tight enough that it stays flat, also the plastic might bow outward under tention. The screen becomes as flat as the plastic was. Flat enough, but it is torsionaly not stiff at all. When two halves are joined, the structure gets much stronger, and perfectly strong in a good frame. It is important that the screen not be creased.
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