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Old 21st February 2005, 05:34 PM   #21
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Hi Tosh,

There is a pair of finals for sale on ebay. TrevLook Here
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Old 23rd February 2005, 05:51 AM   #22
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Ha ha! Yeah, I've seen these listed there before, I think. Seems there's someone in Australia who just can't get rid of them....
I'm keeping an eye out for some local M-L Aeon i's under $1k.
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Old 26th February 2005, 08:41 PM   #23
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Hi all,

I finally got the coils and I replaced them.

I really have to agree with tosh, there are so many mistakes made in the original construction of these speakers. Mine also have the same problem with the perforation. Very irritating.

Even one of the original coils was mounted the wrong way!

But the results with the new foil coils are astounding. the sound completeley opened up and the soundstage is much bigger, and there is a lot more depth and clarity.

I can really recommend these tweaks to anybody with these speakers!

Best regards,

Patrick
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Old 28th February 2005, 06:43 AM   #24
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Hi azagtoth,
Would you send me schematic diagram of 0.3 crossover and the upgrade you perform.
I have changed the woofers with SEAS L REP170.
Now they have deep bass, but a lack in upper bass and very unpleasant bright high mids.
Also, with the pannel disconected, the cones goes to about 3-4 kHz al quite the same SPL.
That is why i want to understand their crossovers.
Thanks
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Old 1st March 2005, 08:13 PM   #25
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Hi Petre,

Unfortunately I don't have the schematics drawn out an I don't know all values by heart.

But I can tell you this:
The ESL section has two caps in parallel. One blue 1mF bypass cap and a small black 33mF bipolar cap.

I replaced the 33mF with a Mundorf Mcap and the 1mF with a 1mF Mundorf Supreme oil/silver.

The woofer section has one intertechnik 2,20mH coil glued to the board. I replaced that one with a mundorf copperfoil coil of 2,20mH. This one is from the crc 12 series (54mm in height).

Oh, before I forget: I desoldered the original powercord and replaced it with thick shielded Belden powercable.

Hope this helps a bit, if you need any more info let me know.

Best regards,

Patrick
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Old 28th August 2005, 06:32 PM   #26
systema is offline systema  Australia
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Hi Azagoth,
When you say the sound completely opened up on your Finals do you feel that the thin sound as reported by other users was also rectified?
Yours sincerely,
Darren
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Old 28th August 2005, 09:25 PM   #27
angel is offline angel  Norway
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What step-up ratio is used with the Final 0.3's?

If they need less than 1KVrms, it should be fairly doable to drive them directly, without a transformer, either using valves or MOSFETs. It's the transformer that's hard to drive, mostly; the panels themselves don't need all that much current.

This would also allow you to make a more configurable active crossover.
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Old 5th January 2007, 09:32 AM   #28
Lorbus is offline Lorbus  Belgium
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Default Final...

Hi Patrick,

Do you still have the final's ?!

Pieter.
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Old 18th August 2007, 05:22 PM   #29
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An update...

With Peerless units (833599 - now discontinued) which have almost identical figures for impedance and inductance as the units fitted by Final, a 2nd order crossover consisting of 3.3mH and 70uF provides a steeper roll off above 600Hz and a uniform respose below, along with a much kinder impedance curve. Simulation indicates Final's roll-off being only marginally better than 6dB/8ve and starting at 200Hz (broadly confirmed by measurement) - too low for the panel. The revised circuit sounds smooth and consistent with no obvious transition between bass and panel.

Final appear to made some changes along the way. Serial numbers 200030617 and 200030684 show interesting differences. These include (on 200030617) a much thicker and heavier base to the bass enclosure, better input sockets and a substantially different and much heavier step-up transformer. The large difference in weight is very noticeable.

Tim.
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Old 21st September 2012, 12:07 PM   #30
Lenin21 is offline Lenin21  United Kingdom
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Default Will the same mods work with the original woofer...?

Hi Tim,

Are the impedence/inductance specs for the Peerless unit close enough to the original unit for us to feel comfortable applying your mods to the original unit? (It's mainly the inductor value change from 2.2mH to 3.3mH I want to be confident about).

Mine feature the Taiwanese woofer (anodised dust cap) and the later panel - so the same as the pair you upgraded.

And what value did you finally settle on for the resistor to ground in the bass section of the crossover? Did you stick with 1.25ohms? Did the simulation you conducted indicate a better value?

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