I built some open-baffle speakers 11 years ago that are similar to Linkwitz's Orion and SFDoddsy's "Bob" dipoles.
While they sound so good to me (I stopped building speakers after them since I was so satisfied) I am wondering if put 2" or 3" acoustic foam panels behind them might imrove things even a tad further.
The speakers are about three feet out from the back wall in my approximately 15' x 20' living room that is fairly full of furniture, racks and also adjoins my open home workshop/radio room on one end (L-shaped space).
I am also building four sealed subwoofers that I'll be adding next week once they are finished (Ed Schilling's Bucket Subs
).
So in the process of optimizing things I started looking at all the wedge and pyramid shaped foam panels available on eBay and am thinking about trying some out.
Any further thoughts about acoustic foam will be appreciated. I am thinking that their addition might help with imaging and soundstage (even better than I have been enjoying for all these years).
Please chime in if I am all wet in this thinking.
Regards, Jeff
While they sound so good to me (I stopped building speakers after them since I was so satisfied) I am wondering if put 2" or 3" acoustic foam panels behind them might imrove things even a tad further.
The speakers are about three feet out from the back wall in my approximately 15' x 20' living room that is fairly full of furniture, racks and also adjoins my open home workshop/radio room on one end (L-shaped space).
I am also building four sealed subwoofers that I'll be adding next week once they are finished (Ed Schilling's Bucket Subs
). So in the process of optimizing things I started looking at all the wedge and pyramid shaped foam panels available on eBay and am thinking about trying some out.
Any further thoughts about acoustic foam will be appreciated. I am thinking that their addition might help with imaging and soundstage (even better than I have been enjoying for all these years).
Please chime in if I am all wet in this thinking.
Regards, Jeff
Hi there J: I experimented with a mid range driver OB mounted in a non resonant rubber floor panel. Seemed to have too much reflection rom the back wave. Added a shelf below the driver and stacked carpet foam layers about a foot deep behind the driver. Each layer of foam had random channels allowing some sound to exit to the rear. Made the driver sound ok. I planned to redo with a FR, however, I never bought an 8-inch driver to fit the hole in the baffle. Recommend you try a way to dampen the back wave. Egg crate foam stacked or placed vertically in layers would be another way to experiment with dampening the back wave. ...regards, Michael
Jeff, you are discussing a very interesting subject. There is a forum for users of Linkwitz designed loudspeakers called the OPLUG users group. Where OPLUG stands for Orion Pluto Lx521 Users Group. It has forums that are not accessible to non owners, including an experimental section.
In this latter forum a guy has been experimenting with absorption of the rear radiation of moving coil drivers in dipole mode. He described some treatment he applied to an 8 inch lower mid and a 4 inch upper mid driver. He used tubes to contain the absorption material, sewer pipe in one case and cardboard tubing in the other. Both tubes were a bit larger in diameter than the overall diameter of the nude/baffleless drivers. The inspiration for the plastic tube may have come from Linkwitz's LX mini design, but its purpose is quite different.
The tube at the rear of the upper driver in the LX mini is a diffuser, and the stuffing is to damp its internal resonance. Our friend increased the diameter to make it more an absorber. One tricky part is locating the absorbers so they don't interfere with the dipole action. This can be aided by grading the density of the stuffing from loose near the driver to denser further down the tube. His lower mid driver, which went down to 120 odd Hz had a 2 foot long 10 inch dia cardboard tube (Sonotube).
He posted some acoustic measurements of directivity in the front and rear hemispheres where it became apparent that the front radiation was minimally affected with the rear radiation considerably attenuated, and surprisingly, somewhat flattened.
His comments on the sound were most encouraging. Words to the effect that a layer of grunge (room reflections) had been removed yet there was no excessive dryness or "headphones at a distance" effect. The recording venue sounds including reverb became dominant such that there was more differentiation between recordings than before.
This inspired me to start experimenting with the upper baffles of the LX521's. I placed two 4 inch thick foam cushions behind the baffle supported by some Schroder 2D diffusers that I made some time ago. I doubt if the diffusers made much difference but they were a convenient object to support the cushions. At one stage I had the cushions a bit too close to the baffle and the timbre deteriorated. Currently they are around 4 or 5 inches behind the magnets. Even with my sub optimal set up I find myself in complete agreement with the OPLUG poster re listening impressions. The only downside, besides the woofers still having rear radiation, is that the speakers ruthlessly expose the poor spatial presentation of multi miked and pan potted recordings, which are unfortunately the norm.
These experiments seem to demonstrate that while controlled directivity by dipole means is a good thing, the rear radiation is a by product of the process and does not, of itself, enhance the listening experience.
Keith
In this latter forum a guy has been experimenting with absorption of the rear radiation of moving coil drivers in dipole mode. He described some treatment he applied to an 8 inch lower mid and a 4 inch upper mid driver. He used tubes to contain the absorption material, sewer pipe in one case and cardboard tubing in the other. Both tubes were a bit larger in diameter than the overall diameter of the nude/baffleless drivers. The inspiration for the plastic tube may have come from Linkwitz's LX mini design, but its purpose is quite different.
The tube at the rear of the upper driver in the LX mini is a diffuser, and the stuffing is to damp its internal resonance. Our friend increased the diameter to make it more an absorber. One tricky part is locating the absorbers so they don't interfere with the dipole action. This can be aided by grading the density of the stuffing from loose near the driver to denser further down the tube. His lower mid driver, which went down to 120 odd Hz had a 2 foot long 10 inch dia cardboard tube (Sonotube).
He posted some acoustic measurements of directivity in the front and rear hemispheres where it became apparent that the front radiation was minimally affected with the rear radiation considerably attenuated, and surprisingly, somewhat flattened.
His comments on the sound were most encouraging. Words to the effect that a layer of grunge (room reflections) had been removed yet there was no excessive dryness or "headphones at a distance" effect. The recording venue sounds including reverb became dominant such that there was more differentiation between recordings than before.
This inspired me to start experimenting with the upper baffles of the LX521's. I placed two 4 inch thick foam cushions behind the baffle supported by some Schroder 2D diffusers that I made some time ago. I doubt if the diffusers made much difference but they were a convenient object to support the cushions. At one stage I had the cushions a bit too close to the baffle and the timbre deteriorated. Currently they are around 4 or 5 inches behind the magnets. Even with my sub optimal set up I find myself in complete agreement with the OPLUG poster re listening impressions. The only downside, besides the woofers still having rear radiation, is that the speakers ruthlessly expose the poor spatial presentation of multi miked and pan potted recordings, which are unfortunately the norm.
These experiments seem to demonstrate that while controlled directivity by dipole means is a good thing, the rear radiation is a by product of the process and does not, of itself, enhance the listening experience.
Keith
Thanks for your comments, Keith. They tend to confirm my suspicions that adding some foam or damping (especially on the wall behind the OBs) will help rather than detract.
I suppose if one were to really cover the entire wall with 3" wedge pattern foam it could turn into something drier than the Sahara, though so I will proceed within reason. Maybe add a few foam tiles at a time behind the speakers (which are only 27" out from the wall) and see what I observe.
One thing I find interesting is that I have seen so many photos of OB designs with no noticeable room treatments visible. Granted, many of these are placed optimally far out into the listening room but it still makes me wonder, hence my question.
I have heard of OPLUG and used to peruse Siegfried's site a lot when I built my dipoles but since these are not exactly Orions I don't think I could join that group.
When I built mine I looked at a lot of different OB designs and read a lot of reviews online as I was living in rural Hawaii with no audiophile salons anywhere on my island. I was particularly inspired by DIY Audio member SFDoddsy's "Bob" series of quasi-Orions as well as another fellow's narrow-Corian baffle designs (can't recall who or where). I ended up getting some sheets of 3/4" Corian, 6 SEAS Excel drivers and 4 TC Sounds 12" car audio woofers that I put in a birch plywood H-frame.
About a year ago when we bought our condo I decided to make things permanent. I added wings to both the Corian mids/tweeter baffles as well as the smallish H-frames and realized a definite improvement in the overall richness of the sound while things remained spacious and finely detailed.
Now I am adding a swarm of small sealed subs to extend the bottom end a little deeper (I like Bach organ, punk, reggae, jazztronica, Wagner orchestral works and bass viols a lot).
So I will also explore adding bass traps as well as rear wall foam panels in the near future.
Once I am finished (more or less; it's always a long journey) I will post my findings here.
Thanks again for your input, Keith!
Cheers,
Jeff
I suppose if one were to really cover the entire wall with 3" wedge pattern foam it could turn into something drier than the Sahara, though so I will proceed within reason. Maybe add a few foam tiles at a time behind the speakers (which are only 27" out from the wall) and see what I observe.
One thing I find interesting is that I have seen so many photos of OB designs with no noticeable room treatments visible. Granted, many of these are placed optimally far out into the listening room but it still makes me wonder, hence my question.
I have heard of OPLUG and used to peruse Siegfried's site a lot when I built my dipoles but since these are not exactly Orions I don't think I could join that group.
When I built mine I looked at a lot of different OB designs and read a lot of reviews online as I was living in rural Hawaii with no audiophile salons anywhere on my island. I was particularly inspired by DIY Audio member SFDoddsy's "Bob" series of quasi-Orions as well as another fellow's narrow-Corian baffle designs (can't recall who or where). I ended up getting some sheets of 3/4" Corian, 6 SEAS Excel drivers and 4 TC Sounds 12" car audio woofers that I put in a birch plywood H-frame.
About a year ago when we bought our condo I decided to make things permanent. I added wings to both the Corian mids/tweeter baffles as well as the smallish H-frames and realized a definite improvement in the overall richness of the sound while things remained spacious and finely detailed.
Now I am adding a swarm of small sealed subs to extend the bottom end a little deeper (I like Bach organ, punk, reggae, jazztronica, Wagner orchestral works and bass viols a lot).
So I will also explore adding bass traps as well as rear wall foam panels in the near future.
Once I am finished (more or less; it's always a long journey) I will post my findings here.
Thanks again for your input, Keith!
Cheers,
Jeff
Get yourself some foam pieces for laying on the floor out front for reflections off the floor, I have used them on the ceiling, adjacent walls, behind & centre in back, also don't forget behind your seating position as the reflections from behind you can be good & can be bad, experimentation for sure...it really cleans up the image sometimes on the face of the speaker fronts too, you just have to watch getting to tight a circle of foam around your tweeters as they get really funky in short order but a disc of acoustic foam sliced 1/2" thick & 5" or 6" around the outside of you tweeter & cut in a diamond shape for the tweeter to fire through or a multi pointed star really can make the image jump right out at you.
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You might want to have a look at what the guys at Primacoustic have to say about the absorption qualities of foam:
Broadway Science
Of course it's a sales pitch but the fundamentals are sound. I used a London Room kit in my little home studio and it does an excellent job at removing reflections from the walls.
regards,
Gerrit
Broadway Science
Of course it's a sales pitch but the fundamentals are sound. I used a London Room kit in my little home studio and it does an excellent job at removing reflections from the walls.
regards,
Gerrit
I think before covering your listening room walls in various acoustic treatments there is a lot to be learned about the subject; and the advertisements of vendors may not be the best way to learn. Achieving broad band absorption is not a trivial pursuit, nor is it likely to go unnoticed when applied over large areas.
Linkwitz says he designs speakers to work well in domestic rooms furnished with "the stuff of life". This includes bookshelves, cabinets, tables chairs etc. He adds that it is desirable for the surfaces behind dipoles to have diffusive (scattering) properties, meaning that flat unrelieved walls are not ideal. These give rise to specular (mirror like) reflections that can arrive at the listening area to compete with the direct sound. What the strongest of them do is to cause the brain to generate secondary/false phantom sources adding spatial clutter.
Where sidewall reflections are concerned with dipoles it may be possible to aim the dipole nulls at the "mirror points" on the walls, something that Linkwitz discusses.
I should emphasise that what I was discussing in my previous post is something NEW as in NEVER having been suggested before? Maybe it breaks the rules by having something too close to the speakers when EVERYONE knows that dipoles need to be at least distance X from boundaries?
What our friend on the OPLUG forum is trying to do is absorb the rear hemisphere BEFORE it spreads to the room surfaces. By having a benign transformation in the acoustic impedance down the length of his tubes he seems to have reduced the rear radiation by around 14 dB or more with little change to the front radiation.
When I mentioned the above experiment to our AES Chairman who is a speaker designer with more than a passing interest in FEM and BEM simulations of acoustic fields he opined that he was not too keen on the idea of tubes to contain the absorbing medium and suggested wedge type shapes of alternate loose and dense materials.
Either way, whether absorbing the rear wave near the speakers, or at the room walls the devices are going to have some visual impact.
As a try before you buy type experiment I would recommend having a look around the house for things like lounge chair foam cushions, pillows, woolen clothes etc to make absorbers. Also have a look for horizontal surfaces like coffee tables, music stands etc to raise the absorption to the right height for your drivers. Tie the bundle of materials together with twine, tape etc with the foam on the outside of the pile and standing up vertically and either side of the baffle, rather than being front and back re the baffle. If you had some wool type material next to the magnet(s) it could probably be almost resting against the magnet.
Keith
Linkwitz says he designs speakers to work well in domestic rooms furnished with "the stuff of life". This includes bookshelves, cabinets, tables chairs etc. He adds that it is desirable for the surfaces behind dipoles to have diffusive (scattering) properties, meaning that flat unrelieved walls are not ideal. These give rise to specular (mirror like) reflections that can arrive at the listening area to compete with the direct sound. What the strongest of them do is to cause the brain to generate secondary/false phantom sources adding spatial clutter.
Where sidewall reflections are concerned with dipoles it may be possible to aim the dipole nulls at the "mirror points" on the walls, something that Linkwitz discusses.
I should emphasise that what I was discussing in my previous post is something NEW as in NEVER having been suggested before? Maybe it breaks the rules by having something too close to the speakers when EVERYONE knows that dipoles need to be at least distance X from boundaries?
What our friend on the OPLUG forum is trying to do is absorb the rear hemisphere BEFORE it spreads to the room surfaces. By having a benign transformation in the acoustic impedance down the length of his tubes he seems to have reduced the rear radiation by around 14 dB or more with little change to the front radiation.
When I mentioned the above experiment to our AES Chairman who is a speaker designer with more than a passing interest in FEM and BEM simulations of acoustic fields he opined that he was not too keen on the idea of tubes to contain the absorbing medium and suggested wedge type shapes of alternate loose and dense materials.
Either way, whether absorbing the rear wave near the speakers, or at the room walls the devices are going to have some visual impact.
As a try before you buy type experiment I would recommend having a look around the house for things like lounge chair foam cushions, pillows, woolen clothes etc to make absorbers. Also have a look for horizontal surfaces like coffee tables, music stands etc to raise the absorption to the right height for your drivers. Tie the bundle of materials together with twine, tape etc with the foam on the outside of the pile and standing up vertically and either side of the baffle, rather than being front and back re the baffle. If you had some wool type material next to the magnet(s) it could probably be almost resting against the magnet.
Keith
Thanks for all of your recent comments everyone; I am encouraged by everything said thus far.
Last night I ordered 48 square feet of 3" wedge foam in 12" squares that I will place mostly in back of the Corian baffled pairs of mids (with a monopole tweeter in between). I also ordered a couple of sheets of heavier absorption foam (like used inside speaker enclosures) to put in the one corner above one of my up-firing subs for a little help in the bass trapping dept.
We already have some carpeting/throw rugs in our living room and there's no way my wife would stand for anything like piles of insulation or carpet foam on the floor in front of the speakers---but that gave me an idea---I could glue something underneath our coffee table (which sits in front of the OBs) instead.
I already told my wife about the foam treatments I would eventually be adding to our wall behind the speakers and she was OK with that; we agreed that white foam would be best as our place is on the dark side.
Besides a large stuffed couch and a matching loveseat in an L arrangement, we have a couple of large canvases and small weavings on our walls, a tall wooden CD rack in back of the couch, a tall stereo rack right next to the main couch, tables on either side as well that are usually full of stuff (one is my eBay shipping table; the other is my workshop bench piled with tools and junk most of the time) and other assorted furniture here and there.
Obviously our place is a bit on the cramped side yet I managed to pull the OBs out from the rear wall about 5 more inches last night by freeing up some space; moving the coffee table and main couch further back as well. Directly in back of our main couch is the downstairs half bath and its door has a rack on it where we hang clothing, rain jackets, robes and such most of the time---so all in all, this place is fairly well damped to begin with. The end of our L-shaped living room contains my "ham radio room" which has a third couch stood on its end to act a bass trap of sorts (it has been in my family for so long I couldn't bear to part with it) and two other workbench tables and pegboards on both walls filled with tools and assorted thingamajigs and a large metal tool chest (will need to be damped once I fire up the subs!). Clutter city.
The only windows are off to my extreme right (about 12-16 feet from the speakers) and our kitchen/tiny front hall window off to the left perhaps by the same distance.
As they stand now, my dipoles are the hands-down best sounding speakers I've ever had or built (I've made a half-dozen various types over the last 35 years)---so I don't think I've got much further to go to reach my Audio Nirvana here---but I do want to take those last few steps before I call it quits in the DIY dept.
My wife likes to sew a lot so once she gets used to the idea of having some long round pillows standing or suspended over in a few corners I think she'll oblige me in my quest (fingers crossed; I also have a little sign posted in our entrance hall that reads BEWARE OF WIFE for good reason).
I'm also handy with a miter saw and canvas stretcher so I could also make up a few fabric covered frames to cover the corners or whatever else needs a bit of disguise as suggested.
I also put 5 or 6 bags of unopened cat litter inside the fireplace which we never use---that might help a little, too or at least can't hurt.
All in all, I think I'm on the right track and I appreciate the tidbits of great info and recommendations of things to try.
I'll report back once things are in place and I've drawn further conclusions.
Cheers, Jeff
Last night I ordered 48 square feet of 3" wedge foam in 12" squares that I will place mostly in back of the Corian baffled pairs of mids (with a monopole tweeter in between). I also ordered a couple of sheets of heavier absorption foam (like used inside speaker enclosures) to put in the one corner above one of my up-firing subs for a little help in the bass trapping dept.
We already have some carpeting/throw rugs in our living room and there's no way my wife would stand for anything like piles of insulation or carpet foam on the floor in front of the speakers---but that gave me an idea---I could glue something underneath our coffee table (which sits in front of the OBs) instead.
I already told my wife about the foam treatments I would eventually be adding to our wall behind the speakers and she was OK with that; we agreed that white foam would be best as our place is on the dark side.
Besides a large stuffed couch and a matching loveseat in an L arrangement, we have a couple of large canvases and small weavings on our walls, a tall wooden CD rack in back of the couch, a tall stereo rack right next to the main couch, tables on either side as well that are usually full of stuff (one is my eBay shipping table; the other is my workshop bench piled with tools and junk most of the time) and other assorted furniture here and there.
Obviously our place is a bit on the cramped side yet I managed to pull the OBs out from the rear wall about 5 more inches last night by freeing up some space; moving the coffee table and main couch further back as well. Directly in back of our main couch is the downstairs half bath and its door has a rack on it where we hang clothing, rain jackets, robes and such most of the time---so all in all, this place is fairly well damped to begin with. The end of our L-shaped living room contains my "ham radio room" which has a third couch stood on its end to act a bass trap of sorts (it has been in my family for so long I couldn't bear to part with it) and two other workbench tables and pegboards on both walls filled with tools and assorted thingamajigs and a large metal tool chest (will need to be damped once I fire up the subs!). Clutter city.
The only windows are off to my extreme right (about 12-16 feet from the speakers) and our kitchen/tiny front hall window off to the left perhaps by the same distance.
As they stand now, my dipoles are the hands-down best sounding speakers I've ever had or built (I've made a half-dozen various types over the last 35 years)---so I don't think I've got much further to go to reach my Audio Nirvana here---but I do want to take those last few steps before I call it quits in the DIY dept.
My wife likes to sew a lot so once she gets used to the idea of having some long round pillows standing or suspended over in a few corners I think she'll oblige me in my quest (fingers crossed; I also have a little sign posted in our entrance hall that reads BEWARE OF WIFE for good reason).
I'm also handy with a miter saw and canvas stretcher so I could also make up a few fabric covered frames to cover the corners or whatever else needs a bit of disguise as suggested.
I also put 5 or 6 bags of unopened cat litter inside the fireplace which we never use---that might help a little, too or at least can't hurt.
All in all, I think I'm on the right track and I appreciate the tidbits of great info and recommendations of things to try.
I'll report back once things are in place and I've drawn further conclusions.
Cheers, Jeff
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Happy Wife, Happy Life! Sounds like your on the right path my friend, with a room that broken up & loaded with absorptive items just a little tweeking is likely needed for "Ideal" if there is such a thing. Out of curiosity how big are the faces of the exposed corian? Just wondering about possible bounce back off of that hard smooth surface & it messing with your imaging, or is an image of importance? I made a pair of MTM's once that were large exclamation points with horizontal subs as the dots & before I got the faux suede sprayed on the points of the exclamations there was crazy interference & from that point on I was very aware of cabinet face size/shape/reflective qualities & never having worked with corian other than countertops I was just wondering about your experience with reflections if any. I have learned much by experimenting with foam by placing them where the direct radiation of sound waves from your drivers bounces off surfaces that are inline with your favourite sitting position & those secondary ones becoming nasty echoes messing with your imaging was where I was coming from in earlier posts.
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To answer your question about imaging; I think they are fine now but am going to see what happens when I add the foam wedge tiles when they arrive in a week or two. I might try some felt around the tweeters just for fun, too---I can always take it off if I don't notice any difference for the better.
While my wife is away on vacation I am rearranging the living room a little to provide a slightly more spacious listening area while maintaining plenty of soft, non-reflective surfaces in the process.
The mains are further out from the wall pictured (now about 32"/.9 meter) and two of the four bucket subs are behind to the left and right. The other subs will be off to the sides/rear of our main couch listening postiton. Looking better all the time and hopefully, by the time my wife gets back she'll be the happy kind.
As I may have already indicated, these dipoles sound teriffic to my ears and I have been a very happy camper the throughout the years I've had them. I merely am curious about taking things to the next or highest level---if there is one to be had (and yes, there probably is).
Cheers, Jeff
While my wife is away on vacation I am rearranging the living room a little to provide a slightly more spacious listening area while maintaining plenty of soft, non-reflective surfaces in the process.
The mains are further out from the wall pictured (now about 32"/.9 meter) and two of the four bucket subs are behind to the left and right. The other subs will be off to the sides/rear of our main couch listening postiton. Looking better all the time and hopefully, by the time my wife gets back she'll be the happy kind.
As I may have already indicated, these dipoles sound teriffic to my ears and I have been a very happy camper the throughout the years I've had them. I merely am curious about taking things to the next or highest level---if there is one to be had (and yes, there probably is).
Cheers, Jeff
I and others I've read have tried absorbents behind large panel ESLs and found it hindered the sound. There's something about direct radiators that seems "right" in some sense. But I think dipoles put better music sound into your room. (Might be my allergy to boxes of any denomination.)
My panels are just two feet apart while 3 feet from their respective walls and that's forms at most 30-degrees apart. Any wider spacing makes the stereo too ping-pong for my taste.
My listening rooms have more carpets and absorbents than most, I'd guess.
Ben
My panels are just two feet apart while 3 feet from their respective walls and that's forms at most 30-degrees apart. Any wider spacing makes the stereo too ping-pong for my taste.
My listening rooms have more carpets and absorbents than most, I'd guess.
Ben
You might try something a little more "decorator" as in woven wall tapestries that hide an open cell foam pad behind them. Worked wonders on attenuating early reflections for me. Have a friend walk along the walls with a mirror with you seated in your favorite listening position and when you see the speaker reflected in the mirror you'll know where to put them.
Octavia; Thanks for your suggestion but I happen to really like the "studio look" of the wedge-design foam tiles already. My wife is also fine with the way they look, too---which as you know---is the main thing after all is said and done.
I installed all 48 3" thick white (ivory/cream in reality) tiles over the last few days and love my results. While the imaging really didn't seem to change much the bass is better than ever (I sort of oriented the ones in the closer left corner so that they contour at/around the corner to form a minor bass trap of sorts).
As soon as I replace a few more inter-connects in the coming days and tidy up our listening room I will take and post photos in case you or anyone else is interested.
I also have my 4 bucket subs in place and the whole system now seems optimized to my ears and taste. I am one happy camper as far as my audio/music passion goes now!
Davey; I'll look into the OPFLUG group sometime but now that I have gotten the above accomplished I don't really feel the need to do so as much as before. It's kind of like getting to a point of satisfaction that would be hard if not impossible to improve upon, if you know what I mean.
I know the journey is almost always the best part---but now I feel as I have arrived to the point where I can simply "enjoy the view."
Cheers,
Jeff
I installed all 48 3" thick white (ivory/cream in reality) tiles over the last few days and love my results. While the imaging really didn't seem to change much the bass is better than ever (I sort of oriented the ones in the closer left corner so that they contour at/around the corner to form a minor bass trap of sorts).
As soon as I replace a few more inter-connects in the coming days and tidy up our listening room I will take and post photos in case you or anyone else is interested.
I also have my 4 bucket subs in place and the whole system now seems optimized to my ears and taste. I am one happy camper as far as my audio/music passion goes now!
Davey; I'll look into the OPFLUG group sometime but now that I have gotten the above accomplished I don't really feel the need to do so as much as before. It's kind of like getting to a point of satisfaction that would be hard if not impossible to improve upon, if you know what I mean.
I know the journey is almost always the best part---but now I feel as I have arrived to the point where I can simply "enjoy the view."
Cheers,
Jeff
Good to mount absorbents spaced off the wall. The greater depth helps a lot and the empty space behind the tiles is free.
B.
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