That is Great !!!! 
Ya , I don't know what to say about that cap situation as we have been trying to figure it out for a while now !!!
I will look into this more with my setup sometime soon.
I have been really itching to finish my panel for a while now and I need to get the second one made.
But, I have too many chips on my bench at the moment to have HV flyin' around in the open.
I want to get working on some chipamps to use with the system and call it good then start on some DD amp ideas.
To have a clean break with acrylic you must First score it rather deeply with with a tool made for cutting it, else it is a PIA and you have to do a lot of sanding to the the edges to make them smooth.
I have a flat metal file that works nicely for working the edges as well.
jer
Ya , I don't know what to say about that cap situation as we have been trying to figure it out for a while now !!!
I will look into this more with my setup sometime soon.
I have been really itching to finish my panel for a while now and I need to get the second one made.
But, I have too many chips on my bench at the moment to have HV flyin' around in the open.
I want to get working on some chipamps to use with the system and call it good then start on some DD amp ideas.
To have a clean break with acrylic you must First score it rather deeply with with a tool made for cutting it, else it is a PIA and you have to do a lot of sanding to the the edges to make them smooth.
I have a flat metal file that works nicely for working the edges as well.
jer
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oh well i was talking about the drilling in the the spacers for the bolts it was more or less breaking instead of drilling and yes cutting the stuf is a BIG BIG hell, i have such score tool specially for acryl but i cant seem to use it, i score it then try to break , but because i need such long strokes it breakes somewhere in the middle leaving it useless
i order some polystyrene 2mm its easy to score with a sharp knife and break it. acryl is crap
it was more or less breaking instead of drilling and yes cutting the stuf is a BIG BIG hell, i have such score tool specially for acryl but i cant seem to use it, i score it then try to break , but because i need such long strokes it breakes somewhere in the middle leaving it useless i order some polystyrene 2mm its easy to score with a sharp knife and break it. acryl is crap
oh well i was talking about the drilling in the the spacers for the bolts
i order some polystyrene 2mm its easy to score with a sharp knife and break it. acryl is crap
Hi,
Yeah, cutting spacers in a pain in the @$$.
You need to cut very deep before trying to break it of; in most of cases almost entire depth of plastic. A tool for this can be made from very hard metal(i.e metal saw blade) having a sharp hook shape. Conclusion : if it's possible to order a company to cut such a thin strip, do it
Lukas
yeah , well i cant seem to score more then 2 times in the same place (althrough i use a ruler) without making an complete new cut i thought i was retarded. and noone had this problem haha. have to find a way for it to speed up. a new blade in my crappy table saw would help. or and i just came up with that idea is attach the stupid blade to my cnc, and let is score it a few times..... hmm problable have to buy me a drag knife sometime. its also usefull for allot of other cool stuff. goijg to google for a cheap one, or make my own with some springs.
by the way i made my spacers yesterday by double sided taping the acryl to some wood and use my circle saw wich had to big teeth. but at least they where all the same size.
i must add it was kind of dangerous, huge floppy acryl on some floppy wood, and i did not had the space to put the table saw somewhere on the ground or on a table so i had it up on my cnc table had to move the huge plate from the side. typical i want to test the panel fast and come up with stupid dangerous idea's to do so.
going to look into the drag knife , only thing bothering me still is this crap distortion, i noticed when i used a prety huge cap like 50 uF wich would give me a crossover freqency far lower then my panels can produce, the distortion was lower. but i hate to put so much power into the things without even hearing it , it will make the panels arc sooner. (still pretty loud i must add)
i thought i was retarded. and noone had this problem haha. have to find a way for it to speed up. a new blade in my crappy table saw would help. or and i just came up with that idea is attach the stupid blade to my cnc, and let is score it a few times..... hmm problable have to buy me a drag knife sometime. its also usefull for allot of other cool stuff. goijg to google for a cheap one, or make my own with some springs.by the way i made my spacers yesterday by double sided taping the acryl to some wood and use my circle saw wich had to big teeth. but at least they where all the same size.
i must add it was kind of dangerous, huge floppy acryl on some floppy wood, and i did not had the space to put the table saw somewhere on the ground or on a table so i had it up on my cnc table had to move the huge plate from the side. typical i want to test the panel fast and come up with stupid dangerous idea's to do so.
going to look into the drag knife
, only thing bothering me still is this crap distortion, i noticed when i used a prety huge cap like 50 uF wich would give me a crossover freqency far lower then my panels can produce, the distortion was lower. but i hate to put so much power into the things without even hearing it , it will make the panels arc sooner. (still pretty loud i must add)
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I take it that it's very important to make sure that when "gluing" the wires to the louvre, that no glue is applied to the wire that will face the diaphram?
Also, pvc cement (methylethyl ketone ) is inexpensive enough to apply with a small paint roller.
What source did you use for the spacer material
Thanks,
Paul
Also, pvc cement (methylethyl ketone ) is inexpensive enough to apply with a small paint roller.
What source did you use for the spacer material
Thanks,
Paul
Wel THE mixture of the chloride and dissolved styrene sacks in between the wires a small film encaPsules the wires. The film is so thin it won't be a problem facing the membrane .
I bought the chloride in a paint web shop. 8 euro or something for a liter. And got louvre from a ceiling web shop 1200 mm x 600 for 15 euro. I bought spacers from. A web shop that sells plastics 1200 mm x 600 2 mm thick an 1 mm thick 9 euro a piece made from poly styrene . It is easy to cut with a knife and then break . Works better then acryl or polycarbonate . Wire is 1.2 mm outside dia. O,25 mm2 copper. 100 meter for 9 euro.
I bought the chloride in a paint web shop. 8 euro or something for a liter. And got louvre from a ceiling web shop 1200 mm x 600 for 15 euro. I bought spacers from. A web shop that sells plastics 1200 mm x 600 2 mm thick an 1 mm thick 9 euro a piece made from poly styrene . It is easy to cut with a knife and then break . Works better then acryl or polycarbonate . Wire is 1.2 mm outside dia. O,25 mm2 copper. 100 meter for 9 euro.
Sorry, another dumb question.
When applying the spacer, if the wires are run vertically, then the spacer going vertically will not be placed over wires (assuming the wires don't go to the edge of the louver.
However, the spacer horizontally, will be placed over wires both top and bottom.
Therefore the spacer won't be evenly spaced for the sides vs. top/ bottom ?
When applying the spacer, if the wires are run vertically, then the spacer going vertically will not be placed over wires (assuming the wires don't go to the edge of the louver.
However, the spacer horizontally, will be placed over wires both top and bottom.
Therefore the spacer won't be evenly spaced for the sides vs. top/ bottom ?
Well its not à dumb question gene THE fact i said the wires are 1.2 mm , plus 1 mm spacing is 2.2 indeed. But the wires sack a tiny bit in the louvre because of the chloride. Also I glue the top and bottom spacer with a thicker chloride styrene solution. An because the top an bot spacer is also styrene , the wires wil embed a little to making up for the 0.1 mm on both sides. I put on allot of glue aply the spacer an sandwich them in between 2 flat pieces of wood with a clamb do the wire will embed while it cures but never embed more then needed so the entire spacers surface of the sides and bottom are exactly flat to each other. So first glue sides then top bot
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