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Old 6th September 2013, 09:21 AM   #11
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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well i did create some small tweeters once with the rubber magnet stuf and when i made it push pull it really increased efficiency . look for poor mans magneplanar in the threads somwhere
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Old 6th September 2013, 10:51 PM   #12
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Thanks, Ide2003 and all you others for replyes and comments. Wooden frame should be a must, but diffcult and with high risk of damaging the diaphgram. Maybe just dampening the frame with some energy-absorbing material would do the job?
And why should there not be Space for additional magnets? There are plenty of Space on the back of the magnets, or have I missed something? Please explain Sreten...

Since last, I have made some simple metal feet/back supports. Raising the speakers two Inches, and angeling them precice vertical.
Segnificant improvement! I also have a loose-hanging two-Ince wide, "tube" of raw thick silk behind all the tweeter section.
WoW! Better soundstage, more realistic sized instruments and vocal, and less reflected high frequensy from back wall. And still the same authentic sensation of a live, airy and presicely presented recorded location, not much affected by my own room. I love these speakers!
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Old 11th September 2013, 01:07 PM   #13
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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well the only space thats left is the space neded to move the membrane, or the space on the sides top and bottom of the pannel, these spaces are empty because, this is where the wire turns around the magnet, also its in spaces where there is not much movement in the membrane so its not verry usefull to put magnets there. also it would be impossible without destroying the membrane. and you dont want to do that.
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Old 11th September 2013, 08:40 PM   #14
andyr is offline andyr  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowmanDk View Post

Then I remembered reading an article some years ago, about some ribbon Apogee-like speakers, who came in two versions. Standard, and with a double set of magnets. Mounted "back to back", raising effienciy about 6db. And subjectively made them sound very dynamic, more open and hard-hitting when required.

SO my question to you Guys and Girls... Is; has anyone tried this on Maggies? Is it a good idea, worth trying?
The MG-20 had double pole pieces (ie. "push/pull" magnets) over the bass panel only, the MG20.1 & 20.7 have this over the mid panel too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BowmanDk View Post

P.S. Yes, I know, that adding rigid stands which supports them at the back, and (the very helpful and sympatic) Peter GunnŽs crossover and frame "absorbing energy"-ideas, will make them more dynamic and transparent.
You can improve dynamics by doing several things to your Maggies (all of which I did to my MG-IIIas, over 15 years):
1. Replace the MDF frame with a hardwood frame.
2. Put the frames in braced stands.
3. Replace the passive XO with an active XO (of course, you need a 2nd amp ).

#1 involves a second factor, as well as the wood being a better energy-absorbing material than MDF. This is ... that the driver panel is now firmly fixed to the frame (those damn staples in MDF allow the driver to move, however minutely, reducing dynamics - Newton's Law! ).

#2 is Newton's Law in action.

#3 the fact that the amp is in direct contact with the driver improves dynamics ... I guess because you have removed a series inductor (or 2!) which is "in the way" of the signal, in a passive setup.


Regards,

Andy
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Old 11th September 2013, 09:41 PM   #15
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Thanks Guys, for chearing your experiences. I will change these crappy MDF frames with some nice solid Wood frames, as You suggests.
About the magnets, I can understand, that you bouth mean, it will be difficult to Mount a second pole piece in front of the membrane, making the speaker a push-pull design. Fine, what I then Wonder, is if I can just improve the magnetic field force, by mounting a set of second magnet barrels, (reversed polarity!), at the existing magnets "back", like we do with dynamic units.
I hope that I explain myself "understandably", English not being my native language...
And in case of an active XO, any suggestions about any relative budget-priced/good second hand designs? MiniDSP? Or traditional active XO?

Thanks!
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Old 11th September 2013, 10:03 PM   #16
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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yeah i get what you mean addig more magnets on the steel side. well you can take a look in femm what happens, but only problem is its not feriet magnets but rubber bonded stuff so i dont know if it behaves the same, also there is teel in front of it so this could alter some things to. i dont think rubber magnet is strong enough to contribute true the metal. the problem with push pull is i think the space between the magnets is to small. if you ad another metal plate from a broken down set both sides will be almost completely closed of except the tiny holes between the magnets. another major thing is that the metal plates are so wobly that adding one on the back could just push them both furhter away from the membrane so the contribution is almost nothing. but still worth a try if you got a spare broken panel left. get the metal as sturdy as possible.

Last edited by WrineX; 11th September 2013 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 11th September 2013, 10:11 PM   #17
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Thans, WrineX!
That saves me for spoiling time and Money...

IŽll go for the other updates, and that will be a satifactory rebuild/update. You can not get Things better than possible, and as good the design is already, I can live happy with some improvements, as suggested.

Regards, Helge
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Old 11th September 2013, 10:52 PM   #18
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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yeah its a nice speaker as it is, do the cheap upgrades, and maybe cosmetic more expensive one and enjoy. (like the woodwork, or new sock).
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Old 11th September 2013, 11:06 PM   #19
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Yes, thinking of making a rigid stand like this:

Rainier-Angle-2.jpg

Helge
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Old 12th September 2013, 05:05 PM   #20
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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that looks nice, better make one arm more to support the middle as well. the stand makes it more solid and raises it from the floor so it wont have to stand on an angle. wich helps allot with imaging.
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