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|22nd June 2013, 06:47 AM||#1|
Join Date: Jun 2013
Recoating Martin Logan Aerius Panel
I'm newbie in this forum!
I'm living in tropical country with humidity 98% which not good for esl.
I received old Martin Logan Aerius (build in 1992) with dead (well almost dead actually) panel from my big brother.
After read a lot in this forum I decide to DIY my panel as I can't justify to purchase new panel for $1,200.
I just finish re-coating my ML Aerius panel with success and while I write this letter I enjoy the fantastic sound for esl panel.
I just want to say thank you for all member for your contribution in this forum especially CALVIN and WACHARA which kind to share his coating recipe and just cost me $4 to repair my panel!!!!!
To who want to try DIY and repair ML Aerius panel, I can provide you with guidance and many of picture, just reply on my thread.
I did many mistake (spoil some part of the mylar) but I really enjoy and learn from it!
Thanks to everyone!!
|22nd June 2013, 07:10 PM||#3|
Join Date: Dec 2005
Martin Logan Monolith II, ARC V70, Proceed Amp 2, Proceed Pre, Theta Pearl transport, Musical Fidelity Tri-Vista 21 (modified)DAC, Parasound T/DQ 1600 tuner, Linn Axis
|23rd June 2013, 09:26 AM||#5|
Join Date: Jun 2013
Re-coating Martin Logan (ML) Aerius Panel
Material to prepare:
ē Big plastic spoon
ē PVAc glue (white glue/school glue/wood glue)
ē Black Ink (Chinese ink/permanent ink)
ē Electrical tape (vinyl tape)
ē Textile tape (any other non-conductive tape)
ē Facial Tissue (toilet paper/towel paper)
ē Water distillation (car battery water/tap water)
ē Alcohol 70%
ē Hammer & towel (rubber hammer)
ē Screw driver
ē Pipet (tools to drop liquid, usually use to drop children medicine syrup)
1. Open the panel from the frame:
I didnít explain this step in detail as someone files it (Iíll attach to my post later) with very good step by step explanation and picture. Iíll explain in brief just to refresh. Lay down the speaker with panel facing up, remember to put cushion or something height enough to make gap between the binding post with the floor (I use a small bench) so it will not stressed the binding post. Punch the bottom side rail (one by one) start from left side rail then right side rail use rubber hammer (I use iron hammer but use thick towel as cushion between rail and hammer when I hit the rail. Do until the rail sliding and out from the quick lock.
After the rail gone, pull the panel each side (one by one) to remove the Velcro bonding (yes ML use Velcro to hold the panel to her frame) and put aside. Then loose the screw at terminal block to pull panel wire (black, red and blue cable).
Now you detached the panel from the frame!
2. Split the panel:
Below is the picture of the panel with stator (perforated metal) at front and back of the panel then diaphragm (Mylar) in between stator. To keep Mylar away from the stator ML use double tape as spacer.
ML panel is curve and hence create difficulties when try to split it as the double tape in between Stator and Mylar is very sticky due to age (mine is 21 years old). The double tape only exist at the top and bottom of the panel, the side panel is not attached by double tape as ML use the frame to create tension between the panel sandwich. You need to be really careful when try to split the panel, if possible donít damage the Mylar (I did!).
Stand the panel in vertical, then use pipet to drop the alcohol in between the stator and Mylar (yes, drop the alcohol to the double tape from end to end). Wait around 2-3 min and let them to run down and soften the tape.
Use the cutter to cut the double tape, cut as near as the front stator (so you not damage the Mylar) to create gap (Mylar stick on the back stator) so the big plastic spoon can push into the gap to split the panel. Start from the edge and donít use force to much, while the spoon inside you slide spoon little by little and always drop the alcohol to soften the double tape (pic. 1 & 2).
If you have difficulty with the soft sticky tape which carry / damage the Mylar use the cutter to cut them and localise the damage. Better to have minimal damage then you lost entire Mylar!
After split the panel you can see that the double tape only exist on top and bottom of the panel and the Mylar stick on back stator (pic. 3).
Do the same technique to split the bottom panel, be careful not to damage the copper strip and the cable when doing bottom panel as the wire is not soldered to the copper strip, just attached use twisting the bare cable at the copper strip. Once you split the panel un-twist the bare wire and loose it from the copper strip for safety (not to spoil the copper strip) see pic.4.
I did made damage on top and bottom of the Mylar for my first attempt for left speaker, lucky ML use section by section diaphragm separation so there is still enough tension at the Mylar at the un-broken section so donít worry too much if you spoil the top and bottom section (the sound maybe a not as good as the original but still work!) see pic. 5 and 6.
Put the back stator + Mylar in flat place r bench work (I carton box just for easy to find when I work on it).
3. Clean the stator and Mylar:
Here is the picture of the back stator with Mylar attached on it :
You can see the 21 years dirt on the Mylar! Clean uses tissue/paper towel and alcohol. Rub panel use tissue wetting by alcohol section by section, try to change the paper as often as possible to avoid the dirt stick back to the Mylar. Donít forget to peel the copper strip tape paper (the copper strip use copper tape and there is a protection paper on top of it) and scrap it as you need to clean the copper strip and make new connection on with the Mylar.
After clean, donít peel the original/existing double tape as you may damage the Mylar just peel the ďsafeĒ double tape which contain dirt only, later we cover the old double tape use electrical tape (nylon tape).
Clean Mylar picture:
You also need to clean and peel the excessive double tape on the front stator. Once it clean then you can start working with front stator, cover the top and bottom front stator with electrical tape (1 layer is enough but you can make it 2-3 layer if you wish) to create new spacer (protecting Mylar not to touch front stator). Picture 11
Donít peel the front layer double tape protection otherwise you will stick the Mylar with front panel later and this is not good when you want to clean or replace Mylar in the future. Here is the finished electrical cover on front stator:
4. Prepare the coating liquid:
Put 80ml of water into plastic can (this can use to coat many panel!) then add 20 gram of PVAc glue then stir until glue dissolve into water and create suspension. Add 1 drop (0.1 ml) black ink into the suspension and stir well until the suspension colour become grey-is. Then coating is ready!
5. Re-coating the Mylar:
I use the sponge and cut the end with 45 degree angle just to make it easy when spread the liquid into the Mylar.
Apply the coating use sponge and squeeze the sponge so the sponge not carry excessive liquid as we only need to apply the coating in very thin layer. I do suggest spreading only 1 times and not twice as maybe too thick but it depend on you how to apply it. Spread section by section, start from 1 end to other end in one goes, just run your sponge in one way. Itís important to coat the copper strip (by section only no need to put coating liquid on to whole copper strip!) and near the end of the Mylar but donít over spread and touch the stator. Also important not to coat the middle spacer which create the section as it will create spark when you run the speaker. You also need to coat under the end of copper wire which will connect to the red cable.
Make sure you make even coating and not to apply circular or return coating as it may effect on the thickness of the coating and also the transparency of your panel!
Below are the pictures for easy understand what I done:
Let it dry in open air (Iím living in tropical country with 32C and 98% humidity so it will dry in less than 2 minutes) then you will see a grey-is colour on the Mylar, make sure there are even coating.
After dry, attach the red cable to the copper strip. I didnít use solder to connect wire as I might have to replace the copper strip and the wire in the future so what I did just to secure the connection as tight as possible and later I fixed the connection with electrical tape. I cover all the cover strip from top to bottom and cover the horizontal top and bottom of the Mylar.
6. Assembly the front and back stator:
Assemble back and front stator to its original position. Please take note that both of my panel didnít align between front and back stator and when I assemble I did back to the original position even itís not nice. Itís important to put back both segment spacers into its original place as it may effect on the tension (and the sound) of the Mylar as this is tunning by ML. You can use the double tape at the top and bottom of the panel like itís original if you want (itís neat and make sure you use 3M VHB double tape as normal foam double tape wouldnít strong enough to hold the front stator) but I didnít put double tape as it will difficult to dismantle when I need to clean up the Mylar in the future. I use the textile tape (but not performing well, Iíll replace with the better quality or maybe use other tape or clear packaging tape) to hold the top, bottom and side of the panel. You donít need to worry with the side panel as it hold tight by the side rail (make sure you have good and thick side double tape and donít peel the top protection at your frame as the original) and wouldnít move.
Below id the picture when finish:
7. Assembly the panel to frame:
When you finish, assemble the panel to the frame and try to play the music.
Do for the other speaker as above step thenÖÖ
ENJOY THE MUSIC!!!
|23rd June 2013, 09:32 AM||#6|
Join Date: Jun 2013
The recipe is simple:
PVAc glue (school glue/white glue/wood glue) & black ink (chinese ink/permanent marker).
Just mix 20 g PVAc with 80 ml water then stir until dissolve and create suspension. Then add a drop of ink 0.1 ml then stir until the suspension become grey-is colour.
Apply to your Mylar with thin coating.
I try to post pdf version in this forum but looks like difficult due to big size file.
|23rd June 2013, 09:45 AM||#7|
Join Date: Jun 2013
Looks like my picture didn't show up...
Anyone able to help how to upload the picture from my drive?
Is it possible for me to upload the pdf version of my process, the file quite big 16 MB?
|23rd June 2013, 03:28 PM||#10|
Join Date: Jun 2013
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