Recoating Martin Logan Aerius Panel - Page 4 - diyAudio
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Old 1st July 2013, 08:09 AM   #31
Calvin is offline Calvin  Germany
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Location: close to Basel
Hi,

people talk alot as the days go by. That doesn´t say that their talk is not firmly grounded or sensible, but it also doesn´t imply the opposite
Seems that Elvamide has had its time of Hype.
At the time other materials are hyped and tomorrow surely will bring a new or revived hype.
Let the past inform You, but not obsure the sight on things.
When Elvamide was used comercially there was hardly any other durable reliable option. Things changed though and we have a couple of possibilites with advantages in safety, easy of handling, application and performance.

jauu
Calvin

ps. My clear transparent Tesa recipe coating (PVA-Glue or similar) still works after >>10years on one of my oldest panels, which I get every now and then out of the wet damp garage into the living room. Apart from the different climatic situation under which Wachara suffers, this seems to be the single most important difference, defining fail or success.
The only drawback of tis coating seems to be to find the right glue

Last edited by Calvin; 1st July 2013 at 08:15 AM.
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Old 1st July 2013, 09:00 AM   #32
FPN is offline FPN
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calvin View Post
Hi,

people talk alot as the days go by. That doesn´t say that their talk is not firmly grounded or sensible, but it also doesn´t imply the opposite
Seems that Elvamide has had its time of Hype.
At the time other materials are hyped and tomorrow surely will bring a new or revived hype.
Let the past inform You, but not obsure the sight on things.
When Elvamide was used comercially there was hardly any other durable reliable option. Things changed though and we have a couple of possibilites with advantages in safety, easy of handling, application and performance.

jauu
Calvin

ps. My clear transparent Tesa recipe coating (PVA-Glue or similar) still works after >>10years on one of my oldest panels, which I get every now and then out of the wet damp garage into the living room. Apart from the different climatic situation under which Wachara suffers, this seems to be the single most important difference, defining fail or success.
The only drawback of tis coating seems to be to find the right glue
Hi Calvin,

Thanks for your explanation.
I just bought mylar and new foil tape from ebay in case mine has problem in the future.
I think your explanation make sense as PVAc glue formula not similar each other and depend on the climate situation.
I try to order ACL 6300 but very expensive $130/3lbs excl. shipping.
Anyway, I'll observe my coating during the time.
thanks for sharing!
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Old 29th July 2013, 06:34 AM   #33
FPN is offline FPN
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinsettawong View Post
The PVA was good for only a few months. When I opened my ESL up, the copper charge ring was very badly corroded.

Click the image to open in full size.

Try to ask Staticide for a small sample, they might just give some to you for free.
Hi Wachara,

You are correct, my panel shows sign to die (again..!) looks like the formula didn't last long in high humidity environment like my place.
I did order the ACL Staticide for $150 but need 4 weeks to for delivery..
I'll update again once I redo with Staticide.
In the meanwhile I may want to make by myself the diy esl use mylar which I order just recently.
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Old 10th September 2013, 03:17 PM   #34
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Any feedback on this FPN? I have a dead Aerius panel at home that I have to decide what to do with. The shower trick helped with the other one but this one in completely silent. :-(
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Old 10th September 2013, 06:26 PM   #35
tyu is offline tyu  United States
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If the ML panel make No sound.....you have lost High V bias.......if you put the bad panel in one that works............an the working panels in the one thats dead now an it works....we no the bias an setup trnsfourmers are working........
It the red wire that feeds the panel bias....it can lose contact with the copper feed that runs up the right side only!.....it just laded in there.......you may be abel to move it around an make contact agin..........An the blue & black wire can brake off also...so ck them.............good luck

Last edited by tyu; 10th September 2013 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 11th September 2013, 08:17 AM   #36
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Okay, the plot thickens. I swapped the panels last night. Now the one that worked before, doesn't any longer. And the one that wasn't working, now works well. I can only assume then that I have an electronic problem?
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Old 11th September 2013, 10:55 AM   #37
tyu is offline tyu  United States
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If the LEds liteup....the bias board is working....... but if the bad box dose not... theres a chip on the bias board........ML may have the chip?.....But ck the wires on to the board..
call ML tell them the prob.......thay well help walk you though...Maybe....
.good luck
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Old 11th September 2013, 10:57 AM   #38
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Both leds light up yes.
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Old 27th January 2014, 01:28 AM   #39
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Reversing myself, thread will stay open.
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Old 27th January 2014, 01:52 AM   #40
FPN is offline FPN
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Hi Guys,

Apologize for remove the attachment and the step by step to re-coating the Aerius in this thread.
The reason I remove the step by step is actually the solution didn't work (for me) and create another trouble for me.
In months after i re-coat my panel the sound start weak again, not balance between left and right and completely lost the sound in around 4 months.
I left the speaker due to my activities and around 2 months later I have chance try to fix it.
The terrible thing when I open the panel is the flat cooper ring is heavily corroded and cut off the signal /voltage from the HV PS to the Mylar.
I try to clean the coating but the result is not good.
I suggest to all of you to use other technique provides by other member (or use Wachara Staticide if you can find it) if you want to re-coat your panel.
I didn't have chance to try other methods as I sold my speaker end of last year to a person who willing to fix it.
This is to answer other member who curious to see the experiment result in the long run.
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