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Old 13th June 2013, 12:46 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bolserst View Post
If you purchase copper foil tape with conductive adhesive you can stick it directly to the coating on the diaphragm rather than relying on pressure contact from the opposing foam spacer.
Another great thing about the copper foil tape is the wire lead from the bias supply can be soldered to it; making a never-fail contact. The photos below show this. However, I would follow Bolserst's advice and use the type foil with conductive adhesive, and stick it directly to the diaphragm (rather than to the opposite stator as shown in my photos):

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Old 14th June 2013, 05:35 AM   #12
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Default A couple steps closer

The stretching rack I made to stretch the Mylar. I stretched it 1.5%. I used a wooden curtain rod as the roller and made a crank for it. There's a good YouTube video of the Logan factory installing the membrane on a curved panel, and they stretch it lengthwise, but very little to none sideways. I would have done this in the garage, but it's pouring rain and I didn't want to take a chance with the added humidity today.



Rack on the panel, which I made a curved support for to hold it

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Finished panels. I found a can of Licron Crystal so tomorrow I spray...if it quits raining.

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Old 14th June 2013, 05:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieM View Post
Another great thing about the copper foil tape is the wire lead from the bias supply can be soldered to it; making a never-fail contact. The photos below show this. However, I would follow Bolserst's advice and use the type foil with conductive adhesive, and stick it directly to the diaphragm (rather than to the opposite stator as shown in my photos):
I've read your blog 20 times if I've read it once. That in itself is a masterpiece! You've helped me a lot along the way, thank you!

I haven't completely decided on the charge ring. Here in 100k population town in Canada, I'm amazed how difficult some items are to get. We have a decent industrial electronics store, but to get that Licron or conductive tape is next to impossible.
I'll check around some more and see what I can find, otherwise I think I'll run an 18ga copper wire around the perimeter and solder the lead to it.
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Old 14th June 2013, 12:40 PM   #14
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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Your jig was a lot like I had planned, except for the curtain rod and crank. I was going to use my two kids and a fish scale. Your method looks a lot more elegant, and more likely not to get chocolate stains all over the mylar

I am going to try the Sodium Laurate hand soap and clamp it all together and see what it sounds like on a fresh mylar...hopefully next weekend.

Also very important is the little flash Neon Light bias circuit to tell you how quickly the panel requires a recharge. A steady fast flash indicates the panel has a leak somewhere, and is having a hard time holding the bias voltage. It will not put out the required SPL with a leak, and may damage your amp if too low..
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Old 15th June 2013, 01:50 PM   #15
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I have a question with the Licron, do I need to clean the Mylar with alcohol or anything before I apply it?
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Old 15th June 2013, 02:35 PM   #16
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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I would clean it off with Acetone to make sure it is clean.
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Old 15th June 2013, 11:36 PM   #17
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Yes Do clean the Mylar!!
Even with the old licron, I have had finger print images left from the coating not adhering to.
You won't be able to see this with the Crystal formula.

I use Denatured alcohol, If acetone gets on to your sticky tape it may melt the tape a bit and cause a weakening of your bond.

jer
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Old 16th June 2013, 01:57 AM   #18
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Yes, I have the newer stuff. It went on totally clear. I know the perils of Acetone and other thinners having worked in auto body some years ago. Tomorrow I'll put them back together and take them for a spin around the block...so to speak.
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Old 16th June 2013, 03:34 PM   #19
AVWERK is offline AVWERK  United States
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The double sided tape used around the perimeter will keep a constant tension for the long haul?
I can see it used on sides as very little tension is needed because of the curve.
Will you be gluing the final stator top and bottom sections to keep it from moving over time?

Regards
David
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Old 16th June 2013, 04:11 PM   #20
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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ML has tape over the Mylar and back stator to hold tension on top and bottom. You can clearly see it on the back stator - took me forever to get it off...
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