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Old 5th March 2013, 04:44 PM   #1
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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Default Refurb Magnepan Tymphani 1D

I wanted to make a photo tour on how i did this job, i already did one speaker from a to z. now the second one an i try to make pictures as much as i can.



First of all i get my aceton ready

Click the image to open in full size.


Then poor a huge amount on the mylar so its wett and soaky. then i apply the plastic to prevent the aceton to evaporate in 10 seconds.

then i wait for half an hour and fold the plastic back and swoop sideways, all the wire and allot of the dark crap to one side.

Click the image to open in full size.


i remove all the wire, and start all over again, wet it with allot of aceton.
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

and apply the plastic blanket it will suck to the aceton so almost no air comes to it so it wont evaporate

[IMG].http://wrinex.clanteam.com/DSC_0499_001.JPG[/IMG]

Then after half an hour, pull back the plastic but not all at once or the glue wil harden again. just 10 cm and clean it with a towel.

Click the image to open in full size.

To get the last residue from the mylar soak ur clean piece of tower and rub it, you might have to do this serval times for the corners and some anoying random sticky stuff.


Then when you repeat this till you done the whole thing it looks like this

Click the image to open in full size.


Just one thing left the button in the middle of the mylar has to go. get a dril and carefull drill in the middle. BE CAREFULL this is the most tricky part if it is stuck in ur drillbit and the whole button turns around you end up with a huge hole in ur mylar. when the thing is gone that holds the button in place use again allot of aceton and gently try to turn the button till it is off.

Click the image to open in full size.


clean it up with aceton and remove the piece of aluminum sticking out.. alll verry gently, its rather easy to screw up ur panel in this stage.


after i cleaned it, i tend to cut out a small piece of tape (clear tape would be better) cut the corners and apply it on the spot with the hole. i do this so it wont get a tear. when i reapply the button i use a hot drill or any other metal to pierce it without any tears. then it looks like this.
Click the image to open in full size.


after this i use a paint burner to slightly heat the tape so the wrinkles will be gone. be careful here as well you dont want to heat the mylar around it or it will losen up!!!.



The button is broken, as you can see, i will make a new one from lexan with some filt on one side on my cnc to replace this one.
Click the image to open in full size.


thats it for now, i wont bother you with the bass panel, its the same story except it has no button. after that i start the rewire, or in my case refoiling, and i will make some photo's of that as well.


Best regards Joppe

Last edited by WrineX; 5th March 2013 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 6th March 2013, 04:52 PM   #2
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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Great job. I have re-wired quite a few Maggies and the Tympanis are no fun...just have a little music in the background and a few pints of Guiness handy, and all is well.

Advice - don't go crazy with the M77 spray, and wait a couple minutes to apply the wires...it will get tackier as it drys, and will better hold the wires down until gluing. As long as we are discussing glue, go easy with the N30 too...
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Old 6th March 2013, 06:48 PM   #3
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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I used foil wich has adhesive On the back. No glue and stuff nice and clean
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Old 6th March 2013, 07:02 PM   #4
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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Do you splice? Or do you have a roll of 200 feet of 1/8" wide aluminum?
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Old 6th March 2013, 07:10 PM   #5
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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Well I buy them 5 mm wide 50 meters long , its enough for one panel With halve a meter left. Instead of THE 6 turn THE wire does double in the middle i do 8 then i get exactly 8 ohm As is needed.

I can order this tape in slices of 3 mm and up increasing 1 mm at a time to like 30 mm


For only 3 euro a roll , look for masking shop it from the uk I don't have URL at hand
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Old 6th March 2013, 07:25 PM   #6
ktuuri is offline ktuuri  Canada
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Thanks for the info and great pictures to go with it.
Looking for to seeing you put down the foil.
Nice Project.
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Old 6th March 2013, 07:32 PM   #7
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktuuri View Post
Thanks for the info and great pictures to go with it.
Looking for to seeing you put down the foil.
Nice Project.
Haha I'm not looking forward to that hidious long work an precision , these don't combine well. But I will start soon, waiting for the pain to go aWay from my back when I did the first one haha
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Old 7th March 2013, 11:26 AM   #8
tyu is offline tyu  United States
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Thanks for the Info an Pix....looks like great work...
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Old 11th March 2013, 10:57 PM   #9
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Very interesting thread - good luck with the project.

I rebuilt my SMGa's using the kit (still) available from Magnepan. A lengthy, messy process, but ultimately, very satisfying.

Ed
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Old 21st March 2013, 12:10 PM   #10
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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Default The foil..

few pictures of the refoil, instead of rewire.

i use a roll of 50 meters aluminium foil, i use foil like magnepan uses nowawday to, they call it quasi ribbon.. dont know why i though it was the fact all side of the membrane are glued to the frame instead of a true ribbon wich is only supported at there ends. but apparantly changing from wire to foil needed a new name.


Pro's i can think of

1- More drive to the membrane it drives a bigger portion of the membrane.
2- les messy glue
3- less weight because no extra glue needed. (yes i know resonance should change with it, i measures and its still 40Hz so looks like tention has a far greater impact on the resonance then the glue)
4- because it has a bigger surface area then wire, i can imagine i gets rid of heat more easy.



cons.

1- its more labor intensive i cant build a rig to do a hole panel at once like you can with wire.
2- getting it straight and nice centered in the gap can be troublesome.



well heres some pictures , i still have to do the last 8 traces in the middle, where i first us transparant tape to isolate the upper 8 traces from the underlaying ones.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.


This where the tape is seen is gone be the tuning button, i used a heated drill to pucnh the hole to the tape so it wont tear. the foil must not be over that hole so it goes around it a little bit.
Click the image to open in full size.


the coners are tricky and the fact i could snap the foil at the end and have to start all over again. further more i have exactly 30 cm left at the end so if they cheat me with like 50 cm i cant finish the panel

Last edited by WrineX; 21st March 2013 at 12:14 PM.
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