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#31 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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Maybe Calvin's point it that compared to large unsegmented panels the dispersion is so much better anyways, that worring about coupling thru the crossbars is not that important. I can't argue with that logic. For a given amount of capacitive coupling thru the crossbars, the impact on off-axis response is seen more for designs with lower segment capacitance and higher value of ladder resistors. In general this means it will be more important for FR designs than for hybrids.
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Trying to model in Spice for more than 3 segments and you wind up with a web of capacitances ![]() Quote:
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If you try grounding the crossbars to avoid the charge buildup you will notice two things: 1) Increased capacitive load on the step-up transformer since it now has to drive this capacitance in parallel with the stator-to-stator capacitance. 2) If you are using a QUAD style neon light charge indicator, the flash rate will increase from current thru the grounded leakage path. This is most noticeable when connecting and disconnecting the grounding wire on humid days. Last edited by bolserst; 25th February 2013 at 07:22 PM. |
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#32 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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As you can see in the first post, there is a big resonance at approx 30Hz. Is it any way to modify the system to get rid of this?
I had a hypothesis that this would improve by removal of earlier mentioned series resistor, something that was obviously wrong. |
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#33 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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This will ruin the see thru optics of the ESL panel(this is very important to some people), but the bass response is much improved. I posted some measurements of this damping technique here: Mechanical Sectioning .vs. Silicon dots for resonance control There had been a thread on another forum detailing the application of silk screen mesh damping to an ES-100. But it looks like the link no longer works. Attached are two pics I had saved from the posting before it disappeared. You can see that they glued silk screen mesh to a perforated metal sheet with square openings and then mounted it behind the rear stator. Forum posting(link appears dead now): http://forum.puresound.be/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=447 Company that did the work: Modificatie Audiostatic door Audio 4 elektrostaten One other alternative is to place on electronic notch filter in line between your preamp and power amplifier. |
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#34 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Maybe this link will help to
http://www.wiremeshok.com/Polyester-...nting-mesh.htm mesh 195 (inch) or 77(metic) will be probably good Quote:
Last edited by esltransformer; 2nd May 2013 at 04:48 PM. |
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#35 |
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diyAudio Member
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Here is another idea how silkscreen mesh can be fixed to a wire stator with paper clips.
The metal handles of each clip are removed after. |
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Ok, just for a quick experiment it will do.
The tighter and closer the mesh is to the foil the better it works. Alfer* deliver U profiles which exactly fit the Audiostatic aluminum rods. *available at Hornbach (German and Netherlands) |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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I would have believed that a cloth would damp higher frequencies?
If so, one alternative would be to just add on backside. If it influence on higher freq, it will also influence on spread pattern, but for all we know it might improve interaction between speaker and room. I can implement a notch filter, but in general, I believe in "making right from the start" to get the best sound quality. Brilliant idea regarding the paper clips. We have exactly the same type at work ![]() Really appreciate your input guys! Last edited by AAaF; 3rd May 2013 at 02:32 PM. |
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#40 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Just to verify; you basicly need to add some kind of air flow resistance to dampen resonance? Sounds logical when I think of it
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